Supercharger is installed!

Lol, I feel the same way with my supercharger. I think I finally pinged my motor to death, and I even have the 7th injector. I get that same p0330 code. And I get the other knock sensor code too. They definitely aren't the most friendly mod.

 

I've had no issues since I installed the URD 7th Inj. I did throw a CEL (P0171 lean code) in the first day but that was from missing a vacuum port that needed capping. I gave up on the 2.2 pulley as something wasn't right around 2k RPMs, I didn't have the desire to figure it out and the stock pulley is good enough for me.

A couple things that are recommended w/ or w/o the 7th injector:
1. use a 170 degree t-stat
2. use the cooler plugs (Denso Iridium Power IK22 gapped to 0.043")
3. Replace the fuel filter with a new TGP one
4. Get the injectors cleaned.

I had no issues running it w/o the 7th but I live at 5800 ft. I've heard those that live at lower altitudes don't have that luxury. Hope you get your issues solved. It ain't a hot rod but the S/C does make the 3.4L funner.

 

damn that sucks. hope you can resolve this. though i'm sure if you decide to sell, somebody will buy it up pretty quick

 

that code makes your ecu fully retard the timing, so yes you will notice a loss of power..

either you are getting a ton of knock, or your sensor or sensor harness has failed.. since its just one bank its probably the harness, its quite common for them to become brittle from the motors heat cycling and moving or bumping them during the super charger install can cause them to fail..

the easiest fix without pulling the supercharger off would be to splice wiring from the failed bank 2 into the still working bank 1.. its like 2 wires, very simple from what i remember..

as for the 420 code, im not sure unless the new flow from the supercharger blew out or clogged your cat.. if it was just the new A/F ratio from the supercharger it wouls more likely throw a lean code..

 

see i knew it felt like it doesnt have any power. Its got a brand new cat on the truck... does anyone know what wires to splice where? i really wanna try that or else im gonna sell it.

 

I got that p0330 code, so I replaced the harness thinking it was that. Nope. So then I put in a knock sensor. Nope. Now I get both knock sensor codes. So I got a new ecu coming. If that doesn't fix it, I'm buying a new engine. Fuck it.

 

yea its pissin me off it feels like it has no power

 

i can take a pic of what i did on my truck if you want for the harness splice..

isu2014 have you logged what your knock is actually at? have u reset the codes? maybe you are just getting a lot of knock, and its not and electrical issue?

 

I reset the code every 1/4 mile when it comes on. Otherwise the truck isn't drivable worth a damn. I can't hear if it knocks due to loud exhaust, but I can make the code come on at about 2700 rpm. My afr is like 10 when it occurs. I've tried several different tunes too.

 

hey can you send me pictures of the splice

 

Gotta be careful on splicing ecu wires. Every year they changed colors and pin locations. That's why you can't buy an ecu from a different year if you ever need to replace it.

 

Has anyone tried a standalone ECU/tuner?

 

p0420 is your cat efficiency code I think. Either need new sensors or need an O2 simulator.

The p0330 is bad; your engine is pinging. If you are not careful, you will blow a head gasket or break a rod. The 7th injector and/or proper fueling/tuning will fix this. I wouldn't drive your truck hard until you get your 7th injector.



Edit: Probably should read page 2 before posting

This pinging issue inherent with the TRD SC is what convinced me to get a turbo btw.

 

According to Toyota, you won't throw a code if the engine pings. It just retards the timing. They told me the ecu is toasted. And of course it's because of the URD aic-t. :rollseyes:

 

Isn't an AFR of 10 too rich? I'm pretty sure your ideally supposed to be in the 12-13 range when your in boost. Too rich is generally safe as far as engine knock goes, it just costs you power. I find it hard to believe your actually getting knock if your running that rich. Assuming your sensor is correct, it does seem like there's a problem with the ECU

When I hear knock in my engine, its pretty darn noticeable and my AFR goes up into the 16's Never throws any codes though. Honestly I'm suprised my engine hasn't blown up yet lol. *knock on wood*

 

Exactly.

 

i dont hear any knock whatsoever. I reset the code and i comes back up right away everytime.

 

It will be a few weeks before I can get back to my truck and put in the new ecu, but I will definitely update this thread if it fixes my problem or not. It sounds like we have the same issue.

 

i can get some pics tomorrow.. pm me to remind me.. not actually splicing ecu harness but just the knock sensor harness which is completely replaceable.

this is weird, even with timing in full retard mode the truck should be perfectly drive able.. 10afr is rich and wouldnt cause knock issues, are those reading from the ECU? do you have a wideband? even when my harness was bad if i stayed out of boost it would take 10+ miles for it to turn on unless i went into boost... it really might be an ecu issue.. find a cheap used one and swap it???

 

perfect. thanks man i will pm ya