Supercharger Quick Change Pulley

Hahaha. If I could put a laughing cry face emoji thing on here I would.

I see what you are pointing out now. I was basing it off of where the actual silver ended. Ahahaha.

Despite all this funny horsefuckery, cut it down to the silver damn line. Call it a day.

 

I think I ended up taking off 10 mm but I agree everyone should go to that silver line. Cause everyone is buying the pulley set @12TRDTacoma has and trust me it’s better to shave down an extra mm or 2. It would suck to press on the hub and not have enough room

 

That's exactly why I said to cut to the point I did. To have to pull off the hub once it is on due to clearance issues is not only dangerous to potentially damaging the hub, but very counterproductive to the entire install process.

If anyone doubts me (and TRON) up to this point shame on you.

 

I received my quickchange pulley setup yesterday and my pump upgrade, snout trimmer and pulley install tool today from URD. While it's somewhat intuitive on how the pulley setup goes there are no instructions for it and absolutely no instructions for the snout trimmer tool or pulley install tool. Somewhat amazing. Glad the pump came with some.

If you guys that have done this can give me some help that would be great. Wanting to get on it first thing in the morning.

As an aside, when down in Phx last week and still running the 2.85 pulley and checking the boost gauge I was seeing 6.5 tops. Watched the afr gauge as well and at wot would see around 10.5 on the afr gauge, then right before the shift, showing 9.5 and getting a backfire. I'm surmising the trans flare right about that time causes the Toyota sc flash to over fuel and then results in an ignition of the over abundance of fuel. Gonna hafta solve this as well..

 

Not an "IF."

 

Tomorrow's the day. Off with the old 2.85 pulley and on with the 2.7 of the quickchange variety and the smaller belt.

I'm hoping to be able to end up at 400 crank hp up here at 6500' and 425hp at 1500' when all is done with the new pulley, upgraded 320 fuel pump and the incoming OV tuner. I'd like to be able to run with a stock 2018 raptor and possibly break into the 13's if I actually ever went back to the dragstrip.

As a little more info needed on this process...I get that depth on the trim goes to the gray line, but amount needed to be removed??? Is more needed to be removed for the 2.5 vs the 2.7? And if so, how much?

 

That's quite an ambitious goal.

 

Which part, the removing the pulley, trimming the snout and getting the new pulley and belt on tomorrow or running with a new raptor?
320 rwhp should do it. Seems attainable with the mods I've got, the 2.7 pulley, proper fueling and the new OV tuner arriving this weekend, at 8.5 psi.

With you running over 10lbs of boost where is your rwhp? What am I missing here? Both with the rwhp expectations, but maybe more importantly, the removal and install of the new pulley? Gadget responded with the request for more info on the tool use and tells me to make sure I DONT let the pulley turn while installing it or I'll snap off the stud going into the nose of the sc. Nice...how is one supposed to make sure the new hub isn't turning??? Yowsa!

And still wondering how much smaller, if any the snout needs trimmed to accept a 2.5 pulley should I ever consider doing such a diabolical thing???

 

He means your power goal. Probably wont happen. Put it on a dyno and you will be disappointed

 

Had the former truck with similar mods including the same sc, but this truck has the URD LT's vs the DTLT's on the former truck. 2 trips with the former truck down the qtr had a fair amount of spinning so nothing to shout about relating to et's which doesn't mean much to me, but the mph related very close to 365 crank hp with a 20% reduction for driveline loss.
Adding an additional 10hp for the URD headers, another 15hp for the smaller 2.7 pulley and 15hp with the OV tune says 405 crank hp which should be around 320 rwhp. Am I being too optimistic?

 

Holy cow. Thought I'd just get the preliminaries out of the way about midnight last night and then I just stayed on it and finished it up awhile ago.

A couple of things here...the snout trimming is a LONG, TEDIOUS process. After a couple of hours, a burnt up impact going pretty darn slow, I looked at that gray stripe on the side and seeing it was still 3/8" away I said screw it and grabbed my sawzall. Couldn't quite see around it and pulled the snout trimmer off only to discover I was just a little over an 1/8" away from the snap rings keeping the bearings in around the shaft. Holy crap. Glad I looked!

I had to put a couple of washers behind the grooved pulley and tension pulley right directly below it but they seem to line up well and it's done. Pulling the old pulley off and putting the new one on after 10 minutes of boiling it and it slid right on. Just that snout trimming thing is a genuine pita!!!

On to the new fuel pump on Monday. I've had enough fun. Gonna let the shop do that one. Tuner should be here by the end of the week, get that completed and that should do it for me. If I pick up another 20-25hp with this 2.7 pulley and tune and clean up the over rich flash from Toyota I'll be happy.

Whoever needs the pulley install tool and snout trimmer...1/2 off URD's price. If you're in Phx I can drop it off in the east valley, if elsewhere you'll need to meet me. Shipping would be extra. Thx.

 

I am anxious to see how the tuning goes, through the OVTune. Phase 1 done. Two to go.

 

I get mine on Friday.

 

I just want everyone to understand that switching from a 2.8 pulley and going with a smaller one, you need to rehaul the valve body, because if you don't you'll burn up your A5 tranny.

If you have a manual, probably need a clutch upgrade if you haven't done so already.

 

Gadget tells me the trimming should only take a half hour or so??? With absolutely no instructions on the thing I didn't want to just drop the hammer on the impact gun. It burned up 20 minutes in. Couldn't find my 1/4" square drive to put in the screw gun and jerry rigged a flat tip screw tip. Went through 2 of them and wobbled out the end of 2-1/2" sockets before trying the sawzall for 5 seconds.

I'm 3/8" from that silver stripe on the side which would have put me behind the end of the shaft bearings had I gone to my sliver stripe. The hub hangs past the end of the shaft about 1/16". Maybe mine is just different?

Gonna get that pump on for insurance and get that tuner setup. That will be the end of my messing with my daily driver, with the exception of a trans flush and seeing if that solves my little trans flare right before the shift. On to the nitrous kit for the 600hp, 416 equipped 04 Z06 that I have a little more latitude in goofing off with and which I don't need every day.

From what I see on that valve body upgrade, it has to be removed and sent in? Still waiting to get the Z back from the shop so no back up ride for the moment. No one makes one that you can just send the core back for a refund?

As a side note-I have not used the new belt. If I don't need it it will be available for 50% off what I paid for it. Not opened, not used.

 

Gadgets high. 30 minutes to trim the snout... What the fuck.

What pump are you talking about?

A trans flush will not solve your shift flare, only rehauling the valve body will do so.

The hub is not supposed to hang off the shaft. It is supposed to sit flush with the face of the shaft.

You need to be a little more precise in your posts and less rambly. I am somewhat missing the point of all your posts man.

Finally, take some pictures and post them of what you are talking about. We are better inclined to help you that way.

 

I've got a new 320 fuel pump to install on Monday.

Hub is 1/16" past shaft. Hardly hanging out there. I would have liked another 1/8" back toward the sc, but There is NO way running it back another 3/8" was going to work. I merely pointed that out in the event other folks ought to measure first before they trim it back to that sliver line and have an issue. No help asked for or needed on that as it's done.

My posts are simply as a reference for others going to tackle this and may want a little more info, nothing more. Thx.

As far as the trans, you may indeed be correct. It's been flaring for the last several months. Gonna add a little fluid and see if that helps. I just don't currently have a spare vehicle to pull the valve body off and send it to get worked on right now.

 

What filter are you using?

 

Yeah that's how mine was for a long time. It just flared at random and then after rehauling the valve body it has always had a solid upshift without any flaring anywhere. Did you do a service on the trans recently or something?

I still would like to see pictures of what you are talking about. If your hub is still sticking out you can always press it on further, but I'd like to see what you are talking about.

 

Not sure how to post that on here. I could do a pic to a phone or email. What you can't see now is the 1/8" to the snap in retainer around that shaft because the pulley is in place. SOOOO glad I didn't continue my sawzall attempt that would have put me behind that point. I was determined to use that reference spot you gave us and thank goodness I pulled the snout trimmer to see what I was doing. At 3am my brain was not totally functioning...

On another day I may pull the pulley (ah the joy of this easy off/on setup-thank you!!!) and Dremel that snout just a little more and press it on just a fudge, but I'm already a little nervous only having an 1/8" of material in front of that snap retainer.


I think I'm going to have to address that continual trans flaring. Just gotta get my secondary ride back to do so.

At 10.5 psi what kind of power are you making at the wheels?