supercharger Wideband AFR gauge question

Allright Taco Masters, I need help again. I just installed my Magnuson supercharger w/ a 7th stage injector kit and smaller pulley from URD. I had a shop install my gauges (boost/vacuum and wifeband afr). The gauges are the Glowshift brand, and the dude at the shop said he doesn't trust them because they are reading 2 points lower than the gauge he has (brand new AEM that he uses on his race cars). My current gauge reads 14.5: is this normal? High? Low? He did recommend getting it tuned, but nobody in the Sacramento area accomodates tacomas. Any tips or extra info is SUPER appreciated! Thanks!

 

AEM is a good brand so are these http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php
What you want your AFR meter to read is 14.7 for non ethanol fuel and 14.1 for E10 gasoline. Some AFR controllers ( the brains of the wideband ) manufactures make 14.5 as 14.7. I have a NGK AFX wideband and the instructions say that 14.5 is 14.7. I know confusing.
14.7 AFR is perfect for non ethanol fuel and it's what the engine control module(ecm) tries to obtain when using the "short band" stock O2 sensors using short term and long term trim tables.
14.5 might be a little lean especially if you are using E10 ethanol fuel.

Remember, anything above 14.7 is lean, anything below 14.7 is rich. With a supercharger it is typical to want to run a little rich to prevent detonation.

The 7th injector is to supply EXTRA fuel at higher rpms to prevent pinging/detonation and for more power output. Which is a engine killer

Most tuning software comes with a scanner that allows monitoring and recording with the ability to do averages on many parameters of the engine. The R4 software that is used to tune the AIC/T controller from URD is absolutely crap. I don't know any scanning software that will work with the Tacoma and a wideband.

 

I don't trust that brand either.. Get a innovate

 

Very informative, Thank you!

 

Oh I should add. Doing this tuning on the public roads is dangerous and a PITA because of stop signs, stop lights, length of roads, other cars and etc. Tuning on a dynamometer is easier and safer and you get to see instant HP and TQ results from the changes you make.

 

Yeah but road tuning is more accurate

 

True......after dyno tuning. With dyno tuning you get to see before and after HP and TQ.

 

How are your gauges mounted?

 

http://urdusa.com/store/Electronics...LM-2-Wide-Band-O2-Basic-Kit/product_info.html
this is what i used for tuning my truck. The software is included. Make sure you know what your doing before attempting this. I got the deluxe model when it was $350.00*** My truck runs fantastic!!! I am waiting for another used blower to pop up and im going to have it ported and upgraded with hybrid bearings and seals and better coupler. Like the one in my truck is now but with the porting also.

 

They are mounted to my cage with tabs that I made

 

It looks great. I want a similar setup, the only A pillar dual gauge pod I can find looks like shit though.

 

@Rome082
I am thinking about doing this..... Magnusum is the company who has the rights to TRD supercharger now and its the same just no TRD stamp on it right?
and if you dont mind saying how much was parts and install ?

 

Damn! Pretty impressive Sir! Thank you for that!

 

Magnuson is the exact same thing, except without the TRD stamp, so yes, it goes right in. The Magnuson supercharger is pretty much 3K, the 7th stage injector kit from URD (highly encouraged to get it) about $800. The Install, for California, $1700 wasn't bad at all, and that included the gauges (AFR, Boost/Vacuum) and URD Kit. Nobody said it'd be cheap, but I do not regret it at all!

 

Seems like i need to gather up 5k... Lol

Does this still pass smog?

 

Of that I can't be certain! I don't smog my vehicles because I'm excempt (in Cali due to being in the Military)