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XPOTRPR build & BS

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by XPOTRPR, Oct 16, 2011.

  1. May 10, 2016 at 1:33 PM
    #6301
    mh.meier

    mh.meier Not PB Mike

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    2008 Tacoma DCLB 4X4 SR5 -Pelfreybilt Steel front single-hoop bumper (12+ conversion) -Baja Designs Squadrons -Baja Designs S8 20” -KM FABRICATION custom 1/4" steel bumper mounts -Warn ZEON Platinum 12,000lb Winch -Pelfreybilt Rear HI-Clearance bumper with swingout -NATO can carrier -Folding Aluminum table -RIGID SRQ reverse lights -Full Pelfreybilt skids -ARB air compressor under the hood -Custom CO2 Setup -KMFAB Custom ext brake line brackets -KMFAB Bedrack -Camping Lab MANSION RTT -ARB Touring 6' Awning -Litra Torch camping light -CTC Bed Cap, color matched -Toyota OEM bedmat -KMFAB bed reinforcement -Pelfreybilt Sliders -BAMF Bed corner tie down brackets -Custom chopped front fenders -OTTRAW switches -King Ext Travel front CO's -King 700# coils -Total Chaos Uni-ball UCA's -Sway-A-Way 2.0 rear ext travel shocks -OME Dakar HD pack with extra AAL -35" Falken MT01s -16" SCS SR8's in Black -Kustom 54 Retrofits -Smoked Tails -Airflow Snorkel -Cobra 29LX CB with PA and the fixins' -KMFAB CB antenna mounts -Pioneer in dash DVD with Nav -Weathertech mats
    I like mud tires and I use them too, but I don't know if I'll get them again. If I do I might get less aggressive ones.
     
  2. May 10, 2016 at 1:51 PM
    #6302
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR [OP] CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    guess it depends on the kinda of deal.. ;)

    all good points.. :) and they do look fantastic!

    I cant depend on that short commute all the time though. AT's are definitely cheaper as well, not to mention lighter.

    I dont NEED them for sure.. but the couple times I have been in snow/mud.. those MT's of Snowtanks were doin great.. and I was doin shitty. but realistically.. they wont see that terrain all too often.. but.. again.. they do look fantastic! lol

    bumpers for sure. I want to at least get a tiregate.. weight savings is still abig factor for me. if I can run that tiregate.. keep my bumpers (until I actually do rip them off) I will be good. I like staying light.. makes that S/C that much more fun. I'll save the bumper purchases until I actually need them.

    good to know. :thumbsup:

    I will most likely stick to an AT.. but definitely going with a 34".
     
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  3. May 10, 2016 at 2:39 PM
    #6303
    RPS1030

    RPS1030 Well-Known Member

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    I certainly understand the tire struggle.

    Load Ratings SUCK in the larger 17" aggressive tires.

    I need to maintain city street driveability/economy and towing ability. While wanting to minimize squirm with a E-load rating, fill out the wheel wells, aggressive/durable enough to limit punctures on gravel and look good.

    Load ratings with 18s are better; but new wheels might as well be a different offset; which allows 37s to clear :eek::anonymous: but the stock wheels have a bunch of positives.

    Sunday, while turning around up near Table Mesa, the monster front diff plowed out a football+ sized rock, then bumped up and over it. 33s are undersized for my truck.

    I can mock up a 37 from the buggy, @iJonny has extra spare 34s that I could do the same. Who has a true 35x12.5 on a wheel. *Yes, I know these 6 lug wheels won't fit, but I can stick them in place*
     
  4. May 10, 2016 at 2:48 PM
    #6304
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Jason has a 35x1250r17. Ill be over at his place sunday if you want me to bring my extra spare over
     
    RPS1030[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. May 10, 2016 at 3:28 PM
    #6305
    RPS1030

    RPS1030 Well-Known Member

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    image.jpg
    image.jpg
    image.jpg

    image.jpg
    image.jpg
    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2016
    4Running Daily likes this.
  6. May 10, 2016 at 3:29 PM
    #6306
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Yea, at least 35s need to go in there. Im sure you coukd get some decent money back on the OEM ones
     
  7. May 10, 2016 at 4:05 PM
    #6307
    mh.meier

    mh.meier Not PB Mike

    Joined:
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    Messages:
    6,726
    Gender:
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    First Name:
    The Doctor
    Commiefornia
    Vehicle:
    Truck Norris Silver Unicornimus Prime
    2008 Tacoma DCLB 4X4 SR5 -Pelfreybilt Steel front single-hoop bumper (12+ conversion) -Baja Designs Squadrons -Baja Designs S8 20” -KM FABRICATION custom 1/4" steel bumper mounts -Warn ZEON Platinum 12,000lb Winch -Pelfreybilt Rear HI-Clearance bumper with swingout -NATO can carrier -Folding Aluminum table -RIGID SRQ reverse lights -Full Pelfreybilt skids -ARB air compressor under the hood -Custom CO2 Setup -KMFAB Custom ext brake line brackets -KMFAB Bedrack -Camping Lab MANSION RTT -ARB Touring 6' Awning -Litra Torch camping light -CTC Bed Cap, color matched -Toyota OEM bedmat -KMFAB bed reinforcement -Pelfreybilt Sliders -BAMF Bed corner tie down brackets -Custom chopped front fenders -OTTRAW switches -King Ext Travel front CO's -King 700# coils -Total Chaos Uni-ball UCA's -Sway-A-Way 2.0 rear ext travel shocks -OME Dakar HD pack with extra AAL -35" Falken MT01s -16" SCS SR8's in Black -Kustom 54 Retrofits -Smoked Tails -Airflow Snorkel -Cobra 29LX CB with PA and the fixins' -KMFAB CB antenna mounts -Pioneer in dash DVD with Nav -Weathertech mats
    I loved my 34s but now I'm back down to 285s until I can get a new set. I have no idea what I'm going to go with however
     
  8. May 10, 2016 at 4:08 PM
    #6308
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny Well-Known Member Vendor

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    So you ran a 285x75R17 and dropped to a 70?
    Or you ran a 315x75r16 and went to a 285x75r16?
     
  9. May 10, 2016 at 4:19 PM
    #6309
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR [OP] CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    damn Ryan that looks good!!!
     
  10. May 10, 2016 at 4:21 PM
    #6310
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR [OP] CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    workin on these... some custom light bar mounts for the roof bar. needed something specific to get it to mount and sit how and where I wanted it.

    1/2" aluminum. will be split height wise, dead center of the rectangle opening. then counter sink some m6 bolts through and tap the other side. it will sandwich around the Prinsu cross bar.

    upload_2016-5-10_16-20-1.png
     
    ChadsPride, RPS1030 and Old School like this.
  11. May 10, 2016 at 4:28 PM
    #6311
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR [OP] CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    like this actually..

    upload_2016-5-10_16-28-41.png
     
    0uTkAsT likes this.
  12. May 10, 2016 at 5:23 PM
    #6312
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Can they be little death stars instead?
    :)
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  13. May 10, 2016 at 5:26 PM
    #6313
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR [OP] CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    hahaha.. naaaaah gonna leave them raw, machined aluminum.. my fave.
     
  14. May 10, 2016 at 5:31 PM
    #6314
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny Well-Known Member Vendor

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    But...

    [​IMG]
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  15. May 10, 2016 at 5:33 PM
    #6315
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR [OP] CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    yup.. I get it.. but not doin it. lol

    that would be easy too.. already have the CAD file for the imperial logo..
     
    2ndGenJonny[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. May 10, 2016 at 5:38 PM
    #6316
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny Well-Known Member Vendor

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    XPOTRPR[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  17. May 10, 2016 at 5:52 PM
    #6317
    RPS1030

    RPS1030 Well-Known Member

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    My first instinct was why 1/2", but you need the meat to tap the holes. So, take it back up a level and counter bore for the bolts to the lights. Keep those heads flush!

    I like it though! You're doing good at that.
     
  18. May 10, 2016 at 6:18 PM
    #6318
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR [OP] CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    yeah.. for the bolts, but also just for rigidity.

    absolutely! they will be counterbored. ran out of time to add those along with some fillets/chamfers.

    thanks man! I really appreciate it!

    I just did a mock up.. fuuuuu I was so close on the first try! lol needs to be shortened by just a few mil.




    and some teasers...








    one more thing... I've been struggling with this damn antenna for a couple years now. the stud is stripped.. I cant tighten it, or take it off.. I also cant tell which end of the stud is stripped. maybe both. this section will NOT come apart.. was hoping I could take a cutting wheel to the stud and save the antenna.. but looks like I might need a whole new antenna/mount. Loves this weekend.. maybe I'll get a 4' instead this go around.

     
  19. May 10, 2016 at 6:29 PM
    #6319
    RPS1030

    RPS1030 Well-Known Member

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    :drool::drool::drool::drool::drool:

    Tried Vise-Grips on the spring near the stud or antenna while attempting to break it free? But given the squawk/screech/feedback and the importance of the antenna in the system, replacement is a good idea.

    Is the "plastic" insulator in there against the mount? The mount needs to be grounded and in place to have a reflective ground plane, but the antenna/coax conductor need to be insulated from the ground plane.

    Shit antenna can ruin/damage a great radio while an Awesome antenna system can liven up a basic radio.
     
  20. May 10, 2016 at 6:53 PM
    #6320
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR [OP] CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    yeah.. tried from either end, of the spring and the mount. everything just seems seized.

    that, I know, is one of the problems.. I somehow misplaced the plastic washer and I think a lock washer at one point when I took it off for whatever reason. probably part of the reason why its stripped feeling. went too tight and cross threaded maybe.

    I will probably end up just getting a new antenna/components. the coax and everything should be good still. anything you recommend Ryan? Like I said, I will probably just run to Loves and see what they have on the shelf.
     

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