Surface Rust Suggestions

That is different but still.....if you're talking about Omaha, I bet there is thousands.

Mine has NEVER been to a dealership. Not for warranty, not for service. Never will.

I take that back. I went and got the spare lowered with their 'keys' before I knocked the spare tire lock off.
Now it's unoriginal. laughs.

The problem is I know a LOT of people who said "I'm driving this -------, the rest of my life." 20 yrs. is a pretty good time that they change their minds.
I had a Dodge for 15 yrs. Strange case I know but it was a good truck. 330 something thousand miles and really was in good shape (except paint) had already been through 1 repaint and needed another. I got sick of looking at it even though I thought it was a nice design. ('91 Dakota)

 

Had a chance to start getting some work done on the surface rust. This will be a 3 or 4 step project. I'll pick this up after the engine installation is finished.

1) Sandblasted and wire brushed the surface rust areas from the cab forward.



2) Primed using Rustoleum self-etching primer



3) Applied two coats of Rustoleum for Farm and Implement spray can paint that I bought at Tractor Supply.

 

I just ordered some of Eastwood’s products. I’ll let you know how it works out with some before and after pictures.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-self-etch-primer-gray.html

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-black-rust-encapsulator-paint-over-rust.html

 

it is looking good!
when or have you done anything from the cab back to the rear bumper?
I am trying to get a game plan in motion on mine to tackle it right the first time (that's the way I am, do it right the first time)
too many choices and options not knowing which is best and proper, its very bewildering
there is a semi-large group of Tacoma enthusiasts (mostly 3rd gens) in StLouis (7hr drive for me) that have similar a climate as I do and can perhaps tagteam this job for beer and pizza, I just gotta bring the supplies
not sure if this endeavor could be done in one or two days with several 'helpers'

 

I stopped at the body mount behind the front wheels. It got dark and the sandblasting mask window was fogging up. Laying down on the concrete driveway and blasting the underside of a vehicle is a task that I don't like to do in the summertime. This seems to go better on a cool and crisp fall afternoon. I wanted to get the front section done while the engine is out. I've had to work around an engine while blasting parts of an engine compartment. Blasting media has a way of sticking around in cracks and crevices for years. Though I did learn a lot from that experience.

 

Made today in removing surface rust from the rear driver side outer. Here's a before an after pictures. This will take a couple of weekends to finish. I'm off to a good start with the rear.

Also, I was able to give the inner frame a good cleaning using a mix of paint thinner and automatic transmission fluid. The inner parts of the frame and spare tire mount just had some dirt and mixed with a little mud.

Here's the outer surface rust.





Used a wire wheel on my Milwaukee angle drill to remove the surface rust by grinding it down to the bare metal.



Primed it with Rust Oleum Self Etching Primer.







After cleaning with the paint thinner and automatic transmission fluid mix.

 

was all the paint peeled off and gone and this is what you found underneath?
i seem to have surface stuff but its under the stupid paint!

 

The paint had been worn off by gravel year ago. So there was only the surface rust in the picture from the exposed metal.

 

random spots of paint or the whole entire paint in that section?

 

The rust color area is where the paint had worn off.

 

i like what you did with that jack, lifting the bed partially up

 

do you have any thoughts on using Acetone to remove all frame paint more quickly than blasting it all off?

 

I don't think Acetone will do much to remove existing paint. I used Acetone to clean the areas before I painted. In some cases, I used Acetone to clean up the areas between the bare metal and the existing paint, then sprayed primer over it and painted. It didn't budge the old paint. In my case, most of the original paint is sticking to the metal without issue. So I've just been cleaning that part with a mix of paint thinner and ATF to remove the dirt, mud, and road grime. After I'm all done painting, then I'll give everything a fall coat of Fluid Film just to keep it preserved.

When I did the front part of the frame, I had some overlap between old and new. The self etching primer with the Farm Implement paint seems to be working very well for that area thus far. The new paint stuck to the primer just fine.

Note the truck won't be exposed to road salt or brine for as long as I own it. So my goal is to provide protection from gravel rash on the rare occasion when it might go down a farm/forest road out in the country.

I think it would take some type of heavy duty paint stripper to remove the existing frame paint.

 

did you scuff the primer with a certain grit of sandpaper before the topcoat was applied


no intended trips to Missouri during the winter?


as soon as they lay those brine strips on the busy street north of me I am going out with a spoon to collect some and do some testing of my own!
just to see how the aftermarket paint will hold up if anything

 

No MO trips for the Taco. When I go to a Chief's game, I'll go up in one the of the Nissans.

No primer sanding. Just a wipe down with a tack cloth to pick up any dust before painting. I'm not looking for outer body type finish. Just good protection.

 

Waiting for primer to dry before I finish the final round of paint today.

Driver side rear.



Passenger side rear.



Waiting for the primer to dry.



Passenger side finished. It came out shiny enough to see the tire tread reflection on the frame.

 

this stuff i am using says to scuff the primer for maximum top coat adhesion

the primer has been on the other side for over a month now and not sure if i need to remove it and start over

 

Not sure. I've had great results with Rustoleum Automotive Self Etching Primer. It contains phosphoric acid and zinc. The acid etches the surface and deposits zinc. That gives the painting surface a rough finish for paint coat for cling to. Since the acid bites into the surface of metal or combination of old paint, it takes less time for surface prep. The surface doesn't need to be perfectly smooth. Just clean and free from any oils. It dries fast enough for a top coat in about 30 minutes.

 

my surface is definitely not smooth after removing most all of the paint and surface crust on the passenger side for now. lots of little black paint chunks left i may spot clean with the blaster when the weather cooperates. the primer i did on the driver side still shows chunks but maybe will disappear with a top coat

this image has just the afterblast phosphoric and zinc coating
and two coats of primer
rubber coating covered since new but winter roadspray had seeped behind it over the decades, or else i forcefully washed it into there lol (i am a madman at the wand spray wash)
driver side

 

After work tonight, I wanted to wire wheel the outer part of the passenger side frame under the cab. I was able to take it down to the metal and prime it. I should have good weather tomorrow for wrapping up the frame clean up project.