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Surging/Thrusting Problem Under Acceleration

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by jberry813, Jan 2, 2013.

  1. Jan 3, 2013 at 12:45 AM
    #41
    TacomaG26

    TacomaG26 Well-Known Member

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    Dumb question have you switched they gas your using? (company/grade)
     
  2. Jan 3, 2013 at 12:54 AM
    #42
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Mid Traveling

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    I honestly don't think that would cause the root of his problem. Even if he was using shitty grocery store brand gas they all get their crap from the place. The only difference starts with what additives they throw into their stuff after the fact they obtain their gas (Chevron using their "techron," shell using their "nitrogen enriched" fuel) it's all still from the same guy. I think that would be the last place to look. Especially him living in Tahoe, the computer in every car is leaning the shit out of the gas hence that "fantastic Tahoe gas."
     
  3. Jan 3, 2013 at 1:06 AM
    #43
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    I'm betting it's a fuel problem, like others have said check your fuel pressure, doubt it's the injectors, it sounds like a problem with fuel delivery
     
  4. Jan 3, 2013 at 1:30 AM
    #44
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Gotta be a MAF issue I think. Although wouldn't that throw a code??

    D you not have an A/F gauge? That'll instantly tell you if it's fuel problems. You should have one btw for running a 7th injector kit ad e URD pulley. Would be monitored closely.

    Don't just wpswap in injectors. Take all6 to an auto store like car quest and have them test them they should be able to tell you if you have a faulty one.

    But it doesn't sound really like a fuel issue..disabling the URD kit would have made that much worse and more apprent.

    Tim could be a possibility if just one of the cams got off..it that would be way odd..worth checking though I guess. 5vz is a non interference engine so if by some weird chance you did jump a tooth(my guess would be intake side :notsure) it wouldn't really throw a code and you wouldn't really be able to tell right away.


    So...

    Fuel pump
    A/F ratio
    MAF sensor
    Timing
    Coil packs(maybe try swapping those around?)

    That's what I'd be checking now..

    Oh..and..ya know..you could be a pal and send me the SC..ill test it for you..make sure it's umm..working...
     
  5. Jan 3, 2013 at 1:37 AM
    #45
    maxamillion2345

    maxamillion2345 Go home if you don't like guns liquor and whores.

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    Reading before the cats could give him something to go off of, maybe.
     
  6. Jan 3, 2013 at 6:07 AM
    #46
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 ASE Master Tech Vendor

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    You mentioned cost of a regulator, and not wanting to spend a lot of money. A fuel pressure test kit can be bought for much less than a regulator, and that way you can test your entire fuel system to either find a fault, or rule it out without replacing ANY parts. My suggestion would be to get the proper diagnostic tools. With the small scanner you have that connects to your laptop and a fuel pressure gauge, you will most likely be able to find your problem right there.

    VERY good point brought up here. The sensor can be fine, but if there is a problem with what the sensor is reading, then a good sensor still has a bad signal. Scope is really the only way to know for sure unfortunately when it comes to sensor output.

    That is why you should always use a propane torch (unlit) to find vacuum leaks around the intake. It is a much safer option.

    Just my opinion here...
     
  7. Jan 3, 2013 at 6:59 AM
    #47
    disc0monkey

    disc0monkey All right. I believe ya. But my Tommy Gun don't!

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    Yes and the characteristic of the sensor can be swayed by temperature too, even though it may behave within spec at room temperature, at 200*, it may not.

    I would bet on a vacuum leak. have you checked your pcv system?

    Does it have a MAP sensor?

    your engine has knock sensors right, thats what makes it pull timing?
     
  8. Jan 3, 2013 at 8:10 AM
    #48
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    I would post this up at yotatech.com
     
  9. Jan 3, 2013 at 8:28 AM
    #49
    FramerKat

    FramerKat Well-Known Member

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    It's funny, I've had a similar "hesitation" in the past with my Taco. It was primarily in wet conditions here in South Florida when it was raining or I was driving through puddles. I found this thread regarding another member who has a similar situation also. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/toyota-trucks-suvs/227204-2003-toyota-tacoma-v6-hesitation.html

    Don't know if there's anything there that can help, but it's worth the read...hope you get yours figured out!

    And mine hasn't done it since "rainy season" here in South Florida...which is the Summer, so I'll wait til next time around to try to troubleshoot it again.
     
  10. Jan 3, 2013 at 9:09 AM
    #50
    dirty dangler

    dirty dangler GFO DMC LBR

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    heres my 2 cents old man. find somebody with a good afm to swap, pull the injectors and have them tested, buy a guage to test the fuel pressure( it will come in handy another day) and double check your grounds and elec connectors(90+% of elec problems are the connections)....sure sounds like something the afm would cause though...good luck and i know youll track it down eventually
     
  11. Jan 3, 2013 at 9:42 AM
    #51
    atvlifestyle

    atvlifestyle Well-Known Member

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    My truck had the same problem about a year ago. It just ended up being that there was some residue on the MAF that required carb clean and a Qtip to get off. I ended up scrubbing good because I figured I was going to replace it anyways.

    If that doesn't work I would also contact Gadget (URD) and see his thoughts. Maybe a problem in the calibrator for the 7th injector?
     
  12. Jan 3, 2013 at 10:12 AM
    #52
    12TRDTacoma

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    Before or after readings wouldn't make a difference.

    Everyone else do themselves and him a favor and stop suggesting blindly what parts could be bad until he could supply us readings and measurements of emissions. You are only encouraging him to continue his "shotgun" journey of the vehicle. What we are trying to do is make his diagnosis of the vehicle quick and direct as possible. Sending him in 5 different directions is only going to continue to cause him to waste his time. Better off testing it correctly then taking the next step from there. Just my suggestion, and no I'm not trying to be a jerk, sorry If I am coming off as one though.
     
  13. Jan 3, 2013 at 10:12 AM
    #53
    disc0monkey

    disc0monkey All right. I believe ya. But my Tommy Gun don't!

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    Most definitely can be but a dirty maf is the same effect as a vacuum leak. It's unmetered air entering the cylinders.

    He said he cleaned it already
     
  14. Jan 3, 2013 at 10:20 AM
    #54
    maxamillion2345

    maxamillion2345 Go home if you don't like guns liquor and whores.

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    Maybe you should explain this for me... explain why cats don't affect exhaust readings?
     
  15. Jan 3, 2013 at 10:24 AM
    #55
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

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  16. Jan 3, 2013 at 10:26 AM
    #56
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Mid Traveling

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    Because regardless of the fact that it might be changing exhaust readings it only does it correctly when the vehicle is running at correct AFR. In this case he either dumping gas or running too lean one or the other so readings will be askewed period. To check before cat readings would only be further wasting time. If he is running lean the cats nox reduction bed is deemed useless at the moment because the engine is pumping too much oxygen through and if he is running rich the cat is deemed useless as well because it can only control so much fuel coming through. Either situation (lean or rich) will quickly rear its head out just by shoving the sniffer probe up the tailpipe, given his current running condition.

    Many techs who recommend cats to pass smog without the cats being legitimately bad are only putting a band aid upon the problem because several months down the road or sooner, the issue will rear its ugly head again. To ensure correct exhaust readings you must first correct the running AFR of the engine. Only then will the cats begin to work correctly, if they haven't been jacked up too bad that is.

    We need to get to the root of his issues as quickly and efficiently as possible and taking extra unnecessary steps only will further slow down this process.
     
  17. Jan 3, 2013 at 10:33 AM
    #57
    12TRDTacoma

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  18. Jan 3, 2013 at 10:38 AM
    #58
    dirty dangler

    dirty dangler GFO DMC LBR

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    the engine is already torn apart so why not check the easy stuff while your in there. I agree with what you're getting at if the engine hadn't been previously taken apart.
     
  19. Jan 3, 2013 at 10:43 AM
    #59
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Mid Traveling

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    The AFM can be pulled off at any given moment. As far as injectors and all that is concerned, I agree about that, however, I wouldn't just replace them though and getting them tested is something expensive is it not? I could be wrong, but my point is not to spend money and extra energy on what is not broken until he finds what is broken. Even if the stuff is easy to reach right now, unless he has money to burn, I wouldn't do it. I am just trying to save him extra money and heartache is all.
     
  20. Jan 3, 2013 at 10:48 AM
    #60
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    This.

    He has it tore apart. Test the stuff he can while it's apart.

    Jason isn't an idiot either. He knows his way around the truck probably better then anyone in here posting from all the shit he has done. He was looking for people with a similar situation more so the a diagnostics guide I'd guess seeing as how he probably knows how to do that.

    Now it's time to :popcorn: and see what he has to report back.
     
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