Suspension Advice.. Yes, Another One of These.

So here's the deal; I can't figure out what I want.

Background: I'm an avid off-roader (mainly enduro, but will get into some high-speed stuff and perhaps rock crawling in the Taco if I'm feeling frisky) and I'm looking for something that will ride a little better than these planks called shocks.

I've been looking at going for full 2.5's all around, keeping the stock UCA and getting a new leaf pack. OR - I can go 2.0's all around and not do anything else.. Would going the full 2.0's really do anything? I need to be able to haul 2 bikes + some gear. So around 500 lbs. in the bed. From what I understand, the deaver j66 is meant for no extra load but sounds like something i'd like to get with the 2.5's.

I'm also not looking to lift it much, if any. Seems like the non-remote Fox 2.5 coils and remote 2.5 rears with the deavers is what I want to do.

Note: I accidentally posted this is the 3rd gen thread.. Sorry, I'm a noob here.

 

Pretty good bang for the buck with this kit. The Dakars will help with the extra weight of your bikes/gear

https://www.headstrongoffroad.com/s..._Kit_with_OME_Dakar_Leaf_Pack_(HS16BK-3).html

 

How are these shocks compared to Fox? I can get a good 30%+ off through 4wheelparts so if it's only 5-600 more then i'll just ball out and get the better ones.

The PO of my truck put K02's on it and i'm sure that has some to do with why it rides harsh.

 

Part of why it rides rough may be there's too much air in the tires. Try dropping it around 34 and see how that feels.

As far as the lift, if you consider yourself and avid off-roader who may hit some faster stuff, then definitely go 2.5s with a new pack, and I'd also recommend UCAs.

Another thing I'd recommend is the Total Chaos cam tab gussets. The part itself isn't expensive, but getting them welded on may be depending on how you go about it. The reason I recommend that is our alignment cam tabs are pretty thin, and can easily get knocked flat during rougher stuff, throwing off your alignment. That won't happen with these.

 

Heard. I'll do that and try the chalk trick and see what happens.

Yeah, 2.0's may fade too fast. If I can find a good deal on UCA's, I'll do that as well. I've seen them come up semi-often (barely) used. That may be the route.. I'm not in a hurry either. Just impatient, lol.

Thanks for the gusset tip as well. I wouldn't have thought of that. Thankfully, I'm pretty good with fabrication and have a office full of other engineers who are also very competent fabricators (more so than my self).

 

Have you heard of JBA ucas? They’re non adjustable, high castor, heavy duty greaseable ball joints, and cheap. Mine were $465 shipped, and I’m super happy with them.

Another tip, when you’re doing the gussets, smother your alignment bolts in anti seize. They’re dry as a bone, and it’s very common for people’s to seize, causing them to be cut out (very expensive to replace alignment bolts and LCA bushings)

 

You're able to work with the non-adjustable part of it?

I like the ball-joint aspect as opposed to uni-ball but non-adjustable doesn't sound too appealing to me.

 

Just a thought you could get the Trd pro set up with a aal and leave overload leaf in for the support, an not have to get ucas. Here’s a link for Trd pro shocks Uber cheap. Recently road in a truck with that setup off-road without overload an sway bar gone was pretty plush. https://www.rogue-offroad.com/PTR1335150-p/ptr13-35150.htm

 

I prefer the non adjustability. It makes it a lot easier for alignment techs to deal with, since they’re not doing anything different than stock. There’s still plenty of adjustability through the lower control arms.

 

The total chaos tabs require welding on. They're expensive, and you'd have to remove the LCAs. Is there any thing wrong with welding a bead on to stock tab before replacing my LCAs? I will not care if the bushings melt on the old LCAs.