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Suspension Help

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by SilverStreakTaco, Jun 18, 2013.

  1. Jun 18, 2013 at 8:08 AM
    #1
    SilverStreakTaco

    SilverStreakTaco [OP] Active Member

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    I'll probably get sh** for not installing my ome lift myself but here goes. I'm purchasing an ome complete lift with front shocks (9000's), front coils (885's), rear shocks (n182's), aal 2" toytec standard, lr uca's, front top plate spacers for a full 3", trim packer, new center bolts and bushings with no diff drop, and considering sway bar removal or relocate. My question has two parts.

    1. Will 885 coils support an all pro bumper or similar if I change in the future or do I have to have the spacers removed and 886's put in for that?

    2. I've gotten some quotes from 700 dollars and it would take the guy a week to a 500 dollar quote and it would take a couple days. I'm waiting on one more quote from a guy I work with. Also fyi I haven't called any auto shops in fear the price for install would be outrageous. Am I being naive in not attempting this myself ? I have 3 ton jacks and all the tools at my disposal minus torque set wrenches and a compression spring tool. Ive heard you can rent them from auto zone for next to nothing. Need advice on the route to take. This is the only thing holding me back from pulling the trigger on the lift purchase.


    Thanks in advance for any advice.
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. Jun 18, 2013 at 8:16 AM
    #2
    BulletToothTony

    BulletToothTony Gold Member

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    1. the 885's will be ok with just a bumper, now if you go and start adding skids and winch sliders etc you'll need the 886's

    2. All shops are gonna be high are their installation process. If you have all the tools, space, time and a buddy you can knock it out in a day. I'd have them preassembled the fronts. You can have each side done from start to finish in under an hour. The rear is maybe 2-3 hours depending on your skill level.

    Take a look at these links they have step by step pics and directions from other members. If you think you can do it you'll save yourself a nice chunk of change

    front ome
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...talls-full-ome-kit-rear-brake-lines-pics.html

    AAL
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/54186-aal-install-second-gen.html

    uca
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/14507-total-chaos-uca-how-install.html
     
  3. Jun 18, 2013 at 8:17 AM
    #3
    Justus

    Justus fucks not given

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    Don't let the ppl who said it would take a week, or couple days touch ur truck.
     
  4. Jun 18, 2013 at 8:22 AM
    #4
    drunktaco

    drunktaco Well-Known Member

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    Icon ext travel C/O's, Total Chaos UCA's, King R/R shocks, All-Pro leaf pack, lights, RCI skid, Brute Force sliders, ect.
    Yes if you have the tools and a basic understanding of what youre doing, then get a friend to help you and you could knock it out in a day. There are a lot of suspension write ups on here along with tons of photos. Just remember you will need an alignment once your done. And like BulletToothTony said, get them to pre assemble the fronts and that will save some time and hassle.
     
  5. Jun 18, 2013 at 8:41 AM
    #5
    scocar

    scocar being weird again....still

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    What these guys said. I had never done a suspension replacement before but am decent mechanically, and did it myself using write-ups (studied them a lot before attempting). I had the springs compressed at a shop with the proper compressor, that installed the assembled units myself. I didn't trust the compressors I could find locally to rent.

    That said, the LR UCAs will bee the trickiest part mechanically. I have not done this, but have looked into it. Mainly, pressing out the old balljoint and then seating the new adapter for the LR design.

    Check out this video, especially starting at 4 minutes:

    http://spc-tv.com/install/lt-suv/65-25460-toyota-tacoma-upper-control-arms.html
     
  6. Jun 18, 2013 at 8:47 AM
    #6
    cdj1

    cdj1 Well-Known Member

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    The lr uca install isn't fun, but get a manual press from auto zone (tool loaner program) and you don't need an air compressor and air hammer like they show in the video. Also another thought is you have rubber LCA bushings. I changed mine to urethane to match the UCA.
     
  7. Jun 18, 2013 at 9:05 AM
    #7
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 LRGRNR

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    OP The LR UCAs are a breeze. Yes airtools make things easier but are by no means necessary. To remove the balljoint just loosen the nut to the end of the balljoint stud and smack the spindle with a hammer, pop, done. To get the "Long Bolt" out you can bend the inner fender, don't worry about it you can't see it, and if your careful it won't chip the paint at all.

    The guys saying about removing the balljoint have 1st gens, and that video is for 1st gens. I assume your Left-side profile are correct in saying you have a 2010. Here is the correct video.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2013
  8. Jun 18, 2013 at 9:27 AM
    #8
    drunktaco

    drunktaco Well-Known Member

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    Icon ext travel C/O's, Total Chaos UCA's, King R/R shocks, All-Pro leaf pack, lights, RCI skid, Brute Force sliders, ect.
    Good catch on the 1st gen/2nd gen balljoint
     
  9. Jun 18, 2013 at 9:51 AM
    #9
    scocar

    scocar being weird again....still

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    Oh shit, you guys don't have an adapter slug for the top of the spindle? Nice. Sorry about the vid. I figured they were essentially the same (they are), but that one detail makes a difference.

    So OP, you should now know what you are in for.
     
  10. Jun 18, 2013 at 9:55 AM
    #10
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 LRGRNR

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    Yep, just a few little differences.

    OP if have the time, tools and a friend, save the money. Spend the extra to get the front shocks and coils assembled.
     
  11. Jun 18, 2013 at 10:10 AM
    #11
    kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    The coilover should be pretty easy to do if you get it assembled somewhere. The LR uca install isn't too bad once you get the old ucas out. Rear shocks should only be like two bolts to take out the old ones and should be pretty easy. The aal install shouldn't be terrible either. Make sure you coat the all the bolts in pb blaster or something for a few days before doing the install.

    All the issues that happened when I was installing my suspension involved rusted on bolts otherwise it went pretty smoothly. The upper ball joint on the driver's side for me didn't press out so I ended up cutting it off. My truck is a 2003 so I feel like you won't experience these issues with your 2010 so much.
     
  12. Jun 18, 2013 at 10:15 AM
    #12
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 LRGRNR

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    :thumbsup: Everything except what's in red is spot of for your(OP) 2nd gen.
     
  13. Jun 18, 2013 at 10:29 AM
    #13
    kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    Does the stock uca ball joint just unbolt? That's what it looks like in another thread.



    OP, Here are some good stickys in the suspension section for installations:

    UCA It's for TC UCAs but it should be similar and shows you removal of the stock uca.

    OME install

    AAL install
     
  14. Jun 18, 2013 at 10:33 AM
    #14
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 LRGRNR

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    It's upside down from your truck. The Balljoint is pressed into the UCA, and bolted to the spindle.
     
  15. Jun 18, 2013 at 10:36 AM
    #15
    kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    Oh, got it. That sounds much easier than the way 1st gens ucas are setup if you're replacing the entire uca. Man that job was a PITA :frusty:
     
  16. Jun 18, 2013 at 10:49 AM
    #16
    SilverStreakTaco

    SilverStreakTaco [OP] Active Member

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    thanks for all the great info. You guys are awesome help . I am mechanically inclined I'd like to think. I do a lot of carpentry work which I know is different but takes problem solving to accomplish a nice end result. A pic of the truck as it sits right now.

    001.jpg


    If I pay the 100 bucks to have everything assembled bushings and front shock/coil. I wouldn't need the compression tool and I'm guessing the only tool I don't have is a torque wrench. That being said what is best for torquing these bolts a dial(beam) wrench, or audible(click) torque wrench just curious to what others have had success with.
     
  17. Jun 18, 2013 at 10:55 AM
    #17
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 LRGRNR

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    Truck looks good. You got it! I've got the 3/8" click from Harbor Freight.
     
  18. Jun 18, 2013 at 11:08 AM
    #18
    totmacher

    totmacher Well-Known Member

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    I use a 1/2 inch drive click style. If I remember correctly from my install in Jan, you'll need 1-1/4 inch socket for the LR UCA and it torques to 150 ftlb. That's for top nut that holds balljoint in the slot. Did my install in a day by myself.
     
  19. Jun 18, 2013 at 11:15 AM
    #19
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 LRGRNR

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    Yea that sucker is huge, I believe that size is right.
     
  20. Jun 18, 2013 at 11:26 AM
    #20
    scocar

    scocar being weird again....still

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    Yeah I have an old SnapOn 200-lb 1/2 inch clicker I bought used and then had recalibrated by SnapOn. Good as new.

    Keep in mind that torque wrenches are best used short of their limits for the sake of accuracy and not damaging the tool. For example, you should not use a torque wrench with a 100 f/p max capacity on a 100 f/p fastener. I think 80% of capacity is the guideline (IIRC), so you want to use a 100 f/p wrench on an 80 f/p fastener, for examaple.

    Bottom line, figure out the highest torque setting you need in advance before you rent or purchase the torque wrench. Equally important, check clearances and access to actually get the damn thing on the nuts/bolts! I bought a couple of adapter extensions for mine. Front spring hanger bolt was right next to the gas tank.
     
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