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Suspension help

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by FixedTRD, May 1, 2010.

  1. May 1, 2010 at 2:48 PM
    #1
    FixedTRD

    FixedTRD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Will
    Alhambra, CA
    All pro LT, All pro front bumper,All pro rear fox, 1.5 full leaf and u bolt flip kit. KR sliders, bestop, high lift with custom mount, katskin leather, Hankook MT and atx artillery. DMZ SUA w/FOX triple bypass
    Ok My buddy and I install the front Camburg coils and we started to install the aal for the rear but the bolt that holds the aal together was not long enough. So we decided to but the rear back to stock and now the driver side front is lower than the passenger side by a bit and the rear driver side is higher almost 1/2in then the passenger side. Can someone let me know what I did wrong or how to fix this issue. I will be adjusting the front to level it out hopefully but what can I do about the rear.
     
  2. May 1, 2010 at 2:55 PM
    #2
    1337Taco

    1337Taco Sold all 3

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    The driver side could possible be a bit lower to to the "Taco lean," most likely if you have a full take of gas, other that that, try adjusting the coilovers so it is level. As for the rear, I'm not sure why that would have such a difference from beforehand.
     
  3. May 1, 2010 at 6:08 PM
    #3
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    You just need to spin the adjusting collar on the drivers side coilover down a few turns, essentially adding more lift to the drivers side to actually even it out. That will also fix the rear being off too.

    I have the SAW c/o's (same as camburg basically) and my drivers side c/o is showing .5" more thread than the passenger to have it sit level.
     
  4. May 1, 2010 at 7:47 PM
    #4
    FixedTRD

    FixedTRD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All pro LT, All pro front bumper,All pro rear fox, 1.5 full leaf and u bolt flip kit. KR sliders, bestop, high lift with custom mount, katskin leather, Hankook MT and atx artillery. DMZ SUA w/FOX triple bypass
    Thanks for all the responds I adjusted the fronts and its really close to spec on both side and it did help out the rear but the rear is still a little off. My other question is since the bolt that holds the aal together is too short can I just pick up a longer one from a hardware store would that work ok? Its a aal 1.5 and I have read some where that I am suppose to remove the overload spring, but at the same time I have read some post that some people leave them on. What would be the pro and con of having off or on thanks everyone.
     
  5. May 1, 2010 at 7:52 PM
    #5
    PreRunner

    PreRunner Well-Known Member

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    you need a pair of 3/8" x 3.5" centerbolts.

    i got mine from 4crawler when i ordered custom 3 degree shims. i beleive they were $10. i dont know where else to get these. anyone help this guy?
     
  6. May 1, 2010 at 8:11 PM
    #6
    Sapper26

    Sapper26 Well-Known Member

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    Just go down to the hardware store and pick up a couple bolts. I think they are 10mm shanks but can't remember exactly. Just take the old one down with you. Then use a grinder to round down the hex till they fit in the spring perch. I had to do it due to a strip bolt.
     
  7. May 1, 2010 at 9:15 PM
    #7
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

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    Reno, NV
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    2009 Tacoma TRD OR Access Cab
    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    Well the first benefit of taking the overload spring off is thay your centering pin would be long enough for the AAL. You might be able to get a longer pin from NAPA or somthing. or just contact Wheelers, they seem to be good at making things right.
     
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