Suspension installation questions

Tons of help, last question (For now), what is the benefit of the ECGS bushing over the stock “needle?” Bushing? What does it do in the first place?
You have been tons of help thank you.

 

The needle bearing wears and allows too much movement in the CV joint. It can be a source of vibration and noise.

While replacing it during this job would be convenient, don't go to far out of your way to get it done. Once you do this job you will have an easy understanding of how to do it in the future. I'd spend time finding a used ECGS tool then I would think to delay the lift itself.

 

These are the cam bolts. You typically end up cutting 48409 and 48190 as they are seized to the LCA bushings. There are lots of aftermarket options, but the OEM ones far outshine the aftermarket ones.

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Here is a helpful photo. This is of a first gen taco, but this photo is great. And I can't stress this enough. Buy the expensive carbide tooth blade. The regular blades won't cut it (literally)

source: https://adventuretaco.com/guide/ste...ement-on-a-1st-gen-tacoma-or-3rd-gen-4runner/

 

Rockauto is amazing, I've used them for years. Sometimes Amazon is cheaper, but Rockauto has the best parts tree out there. If you need an OEM parts fiche check out Amayama, and Partsouq. They really shine for the japanese built trucks, but since ours are build on the american continent they dont have many parts, but the numbers are still good.

You need the frame number to find the exact parts, but this should get you started on generic 2nd gen stuff. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-usa/tacoma/GRN245L/3184

 

Go with OEM cam bolts.

 

As I am looking more into stuff that flew under my radar, like CV axles, I have noticed that there is a substantial leak where the cv axle meets the front Diff. I know this is a problem, does it need a new seal? Or a new cv axle?

 

Typically just the seal.

90311-47013 - RH
90311-47027 - LH

Also if you still have the OEM shafts they are ideal. Reboot them if the joint is not clicking. Aftermarket shafts are cheap, but the OEM shafts are best. In my area you can sell a torn boot OEM shaft for the same price as an aftermarket shaft would cost.

 

So, if you dont get LCA's and they go to align your truck, and they cant move them as they are seized, well...then youre back to tearing it apart. OEM is good as they come with the ball joints installed. Do you NEED them? Dunno until you try to move the cam bolts. If they move as someone stated above, then you can skip LCAs and deal with ball joints when you need to. Again, CV joints/axles, you may not need them now, but if the boots are dry rotted and you lift and change the angle of them, they WILL tear and then you can re-boot them. so again, your choice. ECGS is again when/if your truck starts to howl because you change the geometry of the axles with the lift, you will tear it all apart again to install a new bushing. It eliminates the OEM needle bearing issue of howling with lifted Tacomas.

So, yeah, you can just slap a lift on, change nothing other than struts and rear springs and call it good. Until it isnt. then fix whats wrong.

And yeah a lift will be easiest. Where are you located, maybe you can find another member close that can help you with all this. I think I still have the ECGS Bushing tool if you want to borrow it.

 

When would I head the joint clicking? It seems like I can wiggle the left axle more than the right, not sure if that is what you are referring to. Much more play.

 

I am in Williamsburg VA, I don’t know any other member in my area. CV axles are not dry rotted and the seem perfect except for the seal. If I will be fixing that I might as well get the bushing too. Save me some trouble down the road. The LCA seems like a good purchase as mine are developing rust anyways. I have no doubt I will be cutting out bolts. Can’t hurt

 

Sorry. Joint clicking is a rather large tangent about CV shafts.

The OEM CV shafts are worth the effort to re-boot. UNLESS they make a clicking noise when turning. Then the joint is worn bad enough that it's not easily rebuildable.

 

My LCA bushing/bolts were seized on the passenger side, so I replaced all of the bushings and bolts. The LCAs themselves were fine. Took the blow torch + hydraulic jack press to get them out, but it eventually did. Not a fun process.

 

The best thing you can do for yourself is be prepared like others are saying and don't give yourself a small set amount of time. It can absolutely be done in a day, but if shit goes wrong you don't want to rush.

 

Lots of good stuff already mentioned above (torque wrench, Sawzall, ratchet strap).

When I installed my OME lift on my 2nd Gen I used the below videos to guide me along, it's for a 3rd Gen but both trucks share most of the same suspension design and parts.

Rusted/seized bolts will be your biggest pain in the ass that and gettin the leafpacks off and the new ones put on.

https://youtu.be/IOW-FRDl5wg?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/spGpKnBejUI?feature=shared

 

^this

Helps if you have a backup vehicle. I installed mine over the course of two weekends. Mines not a dailey driver so there was no pressure for me to hurry up and get it done.

 

Have any of you guys had any luck removing the Cam Bolts with a bolt buster tool? I bought this https://boltbusterinc.com/product/bolt-buster-ii-heat-induction-with-advanced-coil-kit/ with anticipation of installing my suspension because I know I'm going to run into some BS. I'm no stranger to cutting bolts and etc to remove control arms and etc... but this tool makes sense living in the rust belt, along with future projects.

 

I will have a good amount of time, my girlfriends dad is letting me borrow his old truck for a week while I work on everything.

 

I will definitely check these out thank you. Did you do upper control arms as well? I’m not sure the order to do everything. Here is what I was thinking, get everything off and do the ECGS bushing ( Driver only) as well as a new seal because it is needed on both sides. I will then Reboot the CV axles. Then I’ll install new LCA’s and cam bolts as mine are in fact seized. I don’t trust myself to try to cut out the current LCA perfectly, I have some experience but it seems like the money spend on new LCA’s will be money well spent. Then everything will be in good operating condition for the stock ride height. I will slap the wheels and everything back on and drive for a couple days make sure everything is good. Then the following weekend I will install the upgraded coil-overs, upper control arms and leaf springs, leaf spring shackles and Ubolts. Then I will go to have the truck aligned. All of my free time in school, and at home has been spent researching and watching how to do these things. I am feeling pretty confident and I am happy with where the price falls for everything. If anyone has any suggestions about anything I should/shouldn’t do in that process I would love to hear it as parts will most likely begin to get ordered for that first section here shortly.

 

This thread has been tons of help, I will make sure to take my time and do it right. I’ll keep everyone updated along the way.

 

Your alignment will likely be out after you replace the lower control arm. There are quick and dirty ways to do an at home alignment, but don't plan to drive it much before you get it to a shop