Suspension Upgrade for Added Weight

jabba_the_sloot · Mar 30, 2022

Hey All - I tried to do as much digging as possible before creating this post but I wasn't really able to get my question answered. So I have a 2021 Tacoma TRD Off Road that came with the TRD lift on it (Dealership said 3 inch, idk how to verify), and I just started buying parts for it. I ordered the C4 hybrid front bumper and it just arrived, now I want to get to work on the suspension because i've been told the added weight will stress the current setup. Looking for input on what to do with the following considerations

I'm not going to be doing significant rock crawling or off roading. Couple of hunting trips per year but nothing serious. Occasional trail or two.

Plan on running 33s (maybe 35s... need to really decide if its all worth it for how much i'm not going to be doing)

Questions:

To support the added weight, can I get away with upgrading the springs/shocks? Or should I add a leaf/go full king/ads/fox etc type suspension with reservoir?

I assume UCA/LCA needs to be considered, if so, is one more important than the other to support the weight of the bumper?

I dont mind spending a couple of extra bucks if it'll be better in the long run but I also don't want to go overboard if its not necessary. Appreciate any input or suggestions!

rnish · Mar 30, 2022

Post pictures of the lift. Not sure what a TRD lift is. Regardless my truck wallowed in the turns after I added a winch & mount up front ~100 lbs. Much better after upgraded the coilovers (& springs) up front.

jabba_the_sloot · Mar 30, 2022

whatstcp said: ↑

First off, take photos of your suspension. That's how you can verify what you currently have. Many people have gotten ripped off by the dealerships by claiming "TRD lift" in person, but paperwork just says cheap $50 spacer lift that they charge you $1400 for.

33s sound right for you. 35s if you insist but you'll be opening a can of worms that will outweigh the pros of aesthetics and telling people, "I have 35s" pretty quick.

For suspension, some 5100s or fox 2.0 (either one with some springs) sound like they fit the bill for you. There are other brands of course like OME, ironman, etc but those two tend to be the most common.

My suggestion would be sit down and figure out any future plans. A bumper vs a bumper with winch and agm battery may need slightly different suspension considerations. Also consider any other future weight adding mods like skids, rock sliders, rear bumper, junk in the bed, etc. This way you can buy once cry once.

Fancy 2.5 adjustable coilovers sound/look nice but no point if you don't need them, which from the sounds of it, you don't. Which is great news because that allows you to stretch your budget out further with other mods.
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Will snag pics when its not dumping rain outside. But yeah that's what I was kind of struggling with is the full long travel suspension looks/sounds good but it would probably be a waste on me. Again the only exception being is if it holds up better in the long run. Useless pic for suspension, but I guess its an index. As far as other gear, i'm planning on putting the outgear solutions rear bumper on it, maybe different steps at some point but i have no qualms with these ones, no plans for a winch (brother has one on his Jeep and has not used it since he bought it ~6 years and counting), only other things i'd add are lights.

jabba_the_sloot · Mar 30, 2022

whatstcp said: ↑

The rule of thumb is that the more you modify, the more maintenance/headache you will have. So for example, long travel would require longer cv axles so either purchase pricey aftermarket axles or modify your current axles with a longer shaft for a slightly less pricey option. Then what about fenders? Either hack your stock ones or go fiberglass, which require fitting and maybe paint if you want. Then modify bumper ends as tires may make contact. Which will suck if it's already powdercoated. Then making the front end long travel but leaving the rear stock wouldn't make any sense, so now you'll play with the idea of hacking up the rear end and either going SUA or staying SOA. Then maintenance, the squeaks, the constant tweaks you'll need to do on the weekends, and god forbid something doesn't go quite right, now you can't go to autozone or the autozone and get a quick cheap part to get it up and running, nope now you need to order a part while your truck sits on jackstands while you find another way to commute to work.

tl;dr race truck parts require race truck considerations like budget, time, maintenance, and troubleshooting.

For every thing you modify, there are going to be other variables that will be influenced and require attention. For example, even a simple lift can oftentimes lead to thunks, clunks, squeaks, and alignment issues that require attention and troubleshooting for some time. This is evident by the almost daily threads of someone posting a thread like, "hey I lifted my truck and now it does *xyz* when turning/stopping/accelerating/cruise control/etc." Lifting also usually comes in hand with an aftermarket UCA, which will mess with alignment techs as the arms add caster but techs don't know, don't give a shit, and will do whatever the machine tells them to do which means a crappy alignment. So if modified, it's important to know what to ask for at an alignment shop post-lift and trying to find a shop that will actually do what is asked as some will vehemently stick to whatever the computer says for liability reasons. Then comes the tires, the 33s. You need to know what wheels and backspacing you will run with them. Also some things to consider will be a need for a CMC, fender liner trimming, and pinch weld smashing. Want to emphasize that they will not clear with bumps/turning and if you plan to offroad, the aforementioned items will basically be a requirement.

The most important thing that I want to emphasize in this whole rambling of a post, is that do not simply modify to modify. Consider your actual needs and plans. No point in spending $900 on UCAs when $500 UCAs will suffice. No point in buying suspension with reservoirs and adjusters if they never get above lukewarm and the knobs are never turned. No point in a super high clearance bumper if it never drops off anything higher than then curbside. The opposite of this is don't cheap out. So for lights, people tend to want to cheap out for whatever reason and insist on having 3-4 crappy relay wiring harnesses rolled up into a rat's nest in the engine bay. If you want to run multiple lights or electrical accessories and aren't too familiar with wiring or wire management, consider spending a little extra on a quality switch panel to neatly and safely handle your electrical needs. When planning a mod, do research first before ordering of what is needed, all that may be needed, and long term considerations like maintenance and cost.
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Yeah, I understand it entirely. I had an Audi S4 that I had basically rebuilt ground-up (coilovers, camber alignment, fuel rails, supercharger pulley upgrade, long tube headers to name a few) so I 1000% understand the if X now Y sequencing. I'm just new to trucks (#DadLife). But thats also the root of my questions in that if I do go with springs/shocks, what else do I need to consider? I'm having a shop install the front bumper which is already going to require cutting/chopping so that ship has sailed. Are UCAs even a must if all i'm doing is just A to B travel, and the occasional trail? Or can that be done at a later date.

OmahTako · Mar 30, 2022

You might consider that if in fact it is a TRD Lift you paid quite a bit of money for that when you bought the truck(if its official).
https://www.toyota.com/racing/trd/news/2021/trdusa-feature---tacoma-trd-lift-kit
You might consider just going with what you have because your descriptions of what you're going to do you're not gonna need anything else really. Just a thought.

jabba_the_sloot · Mar 30, 2022

whatstcp said: ↑

Well usually for lifts you'll want to consider your budget amongst other things. So do you have a number in mind of how much you want to spend on suspension total? Just a rough number, as it can help point you to a few options as opposed to a firehose of options and information. I also see that accutune is prowling the thread and would recommend reading some of their suspension articles as they are very good reading. Some things to also consider will be deciding on how much lift you want to attain. 3" or less is usually recommended due to maintaining some uptravel, decent cv angles to prevent early boot deterioration, and less alignment issues. A popular number is usually somewhere between 2-2.5". Do keep in mind that lift does not equal better tire clearance which I mentioned some interventions for that above. Some people, and often vendors, recommend diff drop kits but there are opponents to this (I am one, so subjective opinion) and that their benefit is minimal if you say <3" lift and keeps your diff tucked up and away from potential contact with offroad obstacles. Another thing to keep in mind is that sometimes an issue can arise from a needle bearing inside the driver's side of the front differential. It can fail and usually recommended to swap it out for a solid bushing from ECGS if you have issues or even as a preventative measure. Another potential issue is known as "Taco lean". This comes from the battery, driver, and fuel tank all residing on the same side of the truck causing a sag on that side. Usually not noticeable from the factory as the suspension is a thin hair more stiff on that side to counter it. With aftermarket suspension, coils are the same for either side so it may be noticeable after installation. If you go with adjustable coilovers, no biggie you just crank it down a hair to get it even. For non adjustable coilovers you simply add a small 1/4" spacer on the driver's side.

UCAs can be done at a later date, but the issue with this is do you want to pay twice? If a shop is doing your install, it may behoove you to have them install it along with your lift since everything is already disassembled. Also you would need a new alignment after the lift is installed and after the UCA is installed. An extra alignment done unnecessarily. They are recommended due to potential wandering issues from having a lift and low caster numbers. Some people notice it, some don't.

As @OmahTako said, I would post up photos of what suspension you have first to see what we are starting with. You may not need to replace much. I would also recommend posting photos of your suspension and maybe also checking your purchase paperwork to see what is written down. Not to get your hopes up, a member was recently overcharged thousands for a spacer lift when they were promised an actual TRD lift and were able to argue their way into get the real deal installed. So if they installed a spacer lift and the paperwork or some other communication says TRD lift, it can be argued that they mislead you.
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Would be great if I didn't have to do anything lol. Here's a few I grabbed between the downpour.

OmahTako · Mar 30, 2022

The "TRD lift" also comes with a pro grill and UCA's.
The lift kit includes:

• TRD-tuned Bilstein

• Monotube shocks optimized for body control and ride comfort

• Heritage-inspired TRD Pro-style front grille

• Millimeter wave radar sensor for TSS (Toyota Safety Sense) integration

• Wire harness and cable spacers

You have a good start though. Fox are good shocks.

jabba_the_sloot · Mar 30, 2022

whatstcp said: ↑

ouuu so you got the actual trd lift! This is great! Now I am not sure, but I would imagine that perhaps since the front coilovers provide a 2" lift, that you can swap out the coils for an aftermarket set to handle the weight of the front bumper. If that's the case, you just saved yourself a good amount on suspension. Although I'll be honest in that if I was you I would be tempted to wait to throw the bumper on, drive it around for a day, and then take a step back and consider if any changes do need to be made.

Hopefully someone else with more knowledge on the TRD lift can elaborate if stiffer coils can be added
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Well thats a bit of good news then!

OmahTako · Mar 30, 2022

I miss spoke the kit does not come with UCA's's.

eurowner · Mar 30, 2022

OmahTako said: ↑

TRD Lift its official).
https://www.toyota.com/racing/trd/news/2021/trdusa-feature---tacoma-trd-lift-kit
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Nice wheel choise, Toyota TRD!

jabba_the_sloot · Mar 30, 2022

eurowner said: ↑

Nice wheel choise, Toyota TRD!

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Thank you! I'm actually going to swap them out for Method 703 Bronze wheels though lol

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