Swap factory 410 axle for factory 456

I have an 2002 Double Cab with E locker, and B03 axle code in the door jam. I am currently running some worn out 33 yokos that when my speedo reads 63 I am going 65 (according to the GPS speedometer app on my phone). Pulls the worn 33s fine for my taste, transmission does not shift in and out of OD much unless pulling a long grade and trying to maintain a steady speed around 55. I have read that some trucks came with 456 axles. I did a quick search on Ebay motors and came up with nothing. Has anyone found and swapped a factory 456 geared axle front and rear? Would retaining the E locker with the 456 axle be an option? I ask all this as needed input when considering running 35s. I turned off the OD this weekend at one point while driving because the trans keep shifting down while pulling some long grades. This truck will spend 99 % of its life on pavement, the other 1 % will be on a flat sandy beach or NC mountains on snow. Thanks in advance TW

 

If you're just driving the roads primarily, I wouldn't put that low of gears in it. 4.10 is really damn low as it is, I don't know if that's stock or not.

 

2.7 automatic prerunners came with the 4.56 rear end. If you go this route you will have to come up with the front set of gears.

 

I have a 99 2.7 on 33s and unless I'm running 55+ i stay in 4th. 4.56 gears or even 4.88s would be nice in my opinion. Just hate to spend the money when mine is all in great shape.

If I had 35s I would probably have to ride the clutch just to get my truck to move so I would think regearing would be a good idea on your end.

 

I had a 96 Nissan extra cab a few years back with a 2.4 and 4:88 gears from the factory, that truck pulled 32s on 15x10 with no problems using 5th gear, the Taco 4:10 with 3.4 and auto trans does good with 33s, guess I'm just afraid to pull the trigger on 35s. Not motivated to trim the pinch weld either.

 

Trimming the pinch weld doesn't take but a few minutes, angle grinder works wonders

 

35s = 5.29s, 33=4.88s. A swap to 4.56s is not worth the effort. And running 35s will require way more clearencing than just pounding on the pinch weld. Tubbing will be required.

 

good luck finding an auto trd 2.7 prerunner with elocker and 4.56s.

 

I have currently have no rub from the 33s with COs and 3 inch body lift, I'm certain trimming an inch front and rear on the front wheel well would clear 35s. Maybe I can locate some used 35s and test fit. Although I am 150 miles in on a full tank of gas, and the 33s have the fuel gauge down to half way. Good thing I have a 39MPG civic as an alternate.

 

oh yea, the body lift should clear the 35s better.

 

Why dont ya just get yourself a couple sets of 4.56 ring and pinions and go that route if ya cant find full thirds or a full axle to swap? I myself also agree with the fella above and go lower than 4.56. It really wont be very noticeable for the trouble, especially if 35's are in the future.

And "4.10's is really damn low as it is"?? Yeah right haha...

With your 6 inches of lift, im assuming, it should clear the 35's fairly well with the pinch weld flattened. Its super easy and its not like youre really cutting up or bashing the heck outta your truck dont worry about that or stress over it.

 

yep with that setup put in 4.88s. i ran on stock 4.10s for years and i can tell you your transmission is hating you. with that setup i would see trans temps in the 260 area all the time when driving. now with 4.88s its under 200 all the time.