Swapping a 3rd gen interior into a second gen How-to (UNFINISHED)

One option:

 

Where else could I tap to get the illumination because I have like 11 switches i need to wire

 

A video on this topic would be PERFECT. Id love to do this but im having a hard time visualizing where exactly things go. Plus you would def get some views, and since you clearly have skills you could make a channel out of it.

 

Thanks OP this is awesome! I've been trying to find more about how to do this too.

Been looking to do this in 2010 TRD Off Road double cab since it's perfect mechanically and am the 3rd owner as of 2017 with its frame replaced under recall in 2018 but I like the 3rd gen look and don't want to deal with trading in... Also, conveniently, I currently have it all apart to sound deaden and clean everything so it's the perfect time for the update!

Thought I'd share my parts list (in-progress as of Sept 18th 2024, Updated Oct 29th):

• From salvage yard:
  • Center floor console - $125
    • Make sure this includes the transmission shift indicator/illumination piece. The 3rd gen transmission shift assembly itself isn't needed
  • Glove box assembly - $50
  • Dash panel including all the related bezels, ducts, etc. - $250
  • Manual temperature control unit (I needed one with a 4WD switch) - $75
  • Door trim panel - front driver, front passenger, and both rear doors - $450
  • Steering wheel, no airbag - $120

• From a local Toyota dealer / eBay / AliExpress / misc. suppliers:
  • Windshield pillar trim with handle - $80 on eBay
    • Both front passenger pillar, black (62211-04100-C0) and grip handle (74603-04020-C0)
  • Body A-Pillar Trim (Drivers Front)
    • Driver pillar trim no handle, black (62212-04110-C0) - $80
  • Misc. missing trims not at salvage yard - $150 - eBay
  • Driver airbag - $600 - Dealer
  • Driver window switch - $27 - AliExpress
  • Replacement leather for steering wheel and shift boot - $140 - RedLine Goods

• General supplies:
  • 16 AWG wire (power stuff equal to and smaller than the cig lighter) - $30
  • 22 AWG wire (signals like shift illumination) - $17
  • Misc. wire terminals and shrink tube - $20
  • Vinyl and fabric paint -
    • I used about 5 cans of DupliColor. Carpet needed about 2.5 cans and I went very light where the all-season floor mats cover

The 4WD ECU needs relocating once the 3rd gen dash is in. 2010 vs 2022:

89533 is the 4WD ECU # in each of the below:

2010:


2022:




Edit Oct 13:

• updated materials above and my costs

Edit Oct 29:

• updated materials and sourcing
• confirmed 4WD ECU relocation

 

Updated my post above with final purchase prices. To add to the above, the 3rd gen has 2 additional air bags: driver airbag and passenger airbag for the legs. I won't be adding these.

I'm also going to keep the floor/foot e-brake lever. I prefer using the console space for more console space - considering making up a piece of sheet metal as an insert over the e-brake boot.

Getting started on the 3rd gen center console pieces this week for my 2010 double cab.

First task is installing the transmission shift assembly and I've run into:

1. Need to drill and tap my own mounting holes. Since the center console trim has to line up I'll be assembling everything, using double sided tape on the bottom of the transmission shift assembly, removing trim, then marking and driling the holes
2. It appears the cable feeding into the transmission is too short for the 3rd gen shift assembly so I'm still thinking how to connect it. Leaning make up an extension if I feel it's secure enough
3. Wiring will be the next step... Already know the connector from the 2nd gen is different to the 3rd gen - and the 3rd gen has 2 connectors. I'm not sure yet what their pinouts are and what needs to go where

OP, have you had time to write up the shift assembly portion yet? If you have, I can grab pictures as I go through it


3rd gen shifter attempting to attach cable:

 

I think you can use the original shift assembly and do not need to swap it to the 3rd gen one.

 

I think you're right... After sleeping on it and looking closer today, the 3rd gen shifter has the same shift pattern as 2nd gen from P > R > N > D but I'd lose access to 4-3-2-L.

 

I would just leave the original shifter and not put the new one. Post pics when you have it done

 

Nice work OP!

 

Sticking with the 2nd gen shift assembly with the 3rd gen center console trim works works better with the shift cable attached and the center console trim installed (not yet secured in my pic)



(the brown wrapped wire harness is connected to the 3rd gen shift indicator)

For the shifter boot, the 2nd gen shifter rod is too wide for the 3rd gen boot's plastic piece. Without widening the hole in the plastic, it gets hung up where the rod expands out under the thread and won't allow the 3rd gen shifter knob to screw down.





For wiring:

• OEM 2nd gen connectors:
  • A/T Shift Lever Illumination (A18) - 8 pin (2x4) female connector
    • only populated at pin 4 and pin 8
  • Shift Lock Control ECU connector (S7) - 12 pin (2x6) connector

• OEM 3rd gen connectors (my parts are off a 2GR-FKS engine SR package 2019 tacoma):
  • A/T Shift Lever Illumination (A18):
    • 
  • Shift Lock Control ECU connector (S7)
  • Transmission Control Switch/Transmission Floor Shift Assembly connector (T23)

Color codes:
B=Black W=White BR=Brown
L=Blue V=Violet SB=Sky Blue
R=Red G=Green LG=Light Green
P=Pink Y=Yellow GR=Gray
O=Orange BE=Beige DG=Dark Gray

Since I'm using the 2nd gen shift assembly, only the A18 connector from the 3rd gen shift indicator should need to change to match the above pinout.

For illumination pins 4 and 8 move to pins 5 and 6). But I don't think the 3rd gen illumination signals can be on the same 2nd gen illumination circuit because of the dimmer and my 2010 2nd gen doesn't have LEDs.

Then, somehow, tie in P-R-N-D into the A18 connector at pins 1, 2, 3, and 4 respectively since there's no way for the position indicator to know what position it's in if it's just illuminated.

To do that, I think I'll need to tie the 3rd gen A18 connector into the 2nd gen's P1 "Park/Neutral Position SW" connector at pin 6 for P, pin 1 for R, pin 9 for N, and pin 7 for D:




P1 is in the engine compartment but I plan to pick it up on the dash panel where the shift position is already displayed (C10, "combination meter").





I'll see how this goes and report back.

 

P1 is on the transmission. Park/Neutral switch.

 

Makes sense why it looks like it's in the cab from that diagram since it's really under it. Weird they categorized into "Engine Compartment" - oh well!

 

This worked like a charm. I tied into both C9 and C10 behind the speedo for the GND (C9 pin 2) and PRND (C10 pins 1, 2, 3, and 4 respectively) signals. I'll post pic when I have it all back together as it's currently a mess while I wired and tested.

If you buy the Fermerry brand wire at 22 AWG from Amazon, the bare wires fit perfectly into the female receptacles when removed from the 3rd gen A18 connector (example attached). Not a permanent solution but convenient for testing.

Important note: my short harness from the 3rd gen shift illumination assembly (brown wrapped in picture from my quoted post) with the A18 connector has different wiring colors than the wiring diagram above so follow the connector pinouts instead. I probably spent a full day second-guessing myself because of wire colors not matching the diagrams and not able to find the connector diagrams for the 3rd gen A/T shift illumination harness... I also didn't match wire colors to the diagrams and instead just labeled everything with painters tape I had on-hand

 

Looking forward to seeing this work. Currently working on mine too

 

Took the week but I worked out the climate control unit wiring for the manual 3rd gen climate controls with 4WD.

4WD switch, air flow/temp/mode knobs, security indicator blink, and recirc, A/C, and hazard buttons all function as they should. Pass Air Bag indicator also seems to function as it's switched to "OFF" with no seat installed. Expecting it to switch to ON when appropriate since it's wiring conversion from 2010 is the same process as the OFF indicator but haven't tested that part yet and won't have the chance to for a few weeks at the earliest.

Mirror heater switch is currently non-functional because I need to purchase a relay to wire it to then wire to my 3rd gen mirrors but I did wire access to that switch when I get there.

Buying a 2-day subscription to TIS to download all the wiring diagrams was (obviously) a HUGE help. Not just because it let me rewire but because I feel like I have a much better understanding of my truck's electrical systems now just by spending time looking through them.


Note: based on the wiring diagrams, it seems the passenger seatbelt indicator/buzzer "beep" that displays on the driver's instrument panel when the pass airbag is on and seatbelt is not fastened does not carry over through this conversion. At least, I wasn't able to work out carrying it over as it seems to be internal to the 2nd gen's temp control unit (more on that below).





Connectors:

• 2nd Gen:
  • A15
    • No change to 3rd gen
  • A16
    • Not used in 3rd gen, signals go to the 3rd gen's A33 connector
  • H7
    • Some signals will go to A33 connector

• 3rd Gen:
  • A15
    • No Change from 2nd gen
  • A33
    • 16 pin connector
    • All pins will be used (unless you don't want to add heater mirrors then you'll use all but 2)

HVAC, passenger airbag indicator, hazard, and security indicator: circuits attached. 2nd gen is on the left and 3rd gen is on the right for all circuits.









For pinouts:



I didn't have an A33 connector to use so I just soldered 22 AWG wire to each surface mount pin of the A33 receptacle on the back of the unit, used hot glue for a more physically secure connection (FYI super glue is very toxic if you need to resolder for any reason), dremeled out the space on the plastic backing and labeled all wires and signals:









I could have ordered an A33 header then wired, etc.... but I honestly didn't want to wait for it to arrive plus the additional $20. I had everything I needed to do the above so it didn't seem worth it to me.


4WD switch (2nd gen on left, 3rd on right). I used the illumination pins from H7 to connect illumination to the 3rd gen 4WD switch. Pins from H7 are 11 (I+) and 10 (I-) then connected to the 4WD switch pins 1 (I+) and 4 (I-).







Now, on to the piece about the lost passenger buzzer when airbag is on but seatbelt is not fastened. I could not find a comparable signal on the 3rd gen diagrams for the "Front Passenger Seat Belt Warning Light (PBEW)" on a 2010. It'd be great if someone can take another look on their diagrams for confidence that it's not possible:

 

How did you get the Ac vents from the 3rdgen to function

 

Sorry, do you mean the physical ducts?

 

Yes

 

I followed OP's lead with some changes. Kept 2nd gen driver side duct. Am using 3rd gen middle 2 ducts, far passenger duct, and 3rd gen defrost.

For the far passenger duct, I measured and cut off where it meets with the 2nd gen central air blower then used a heat gun to melt and form it so it mates better. I did the passenger far duct first and didn't realize the driver side would need a lot more reforming with heat so I probably would've kept the 2nd gen passenger duct too.

Once I finalize everything, I'll need to make some adjustments because I noticed the middle 2 ducts blow stronger than the far sides so I plan to add weather stripping where everything meets. Also plan to make the middle 2 3rd gen duct inputs smaller with the heat gun to match the 2nd gen so air is better distributed. I'm only modifying the 3rd gen ducts and keeping all 2nd gen as is in case I need to put the 2nd gen dash back in for any reason.

I'm focusing on all the wiring right now so I don't have duct pictures yet.

 

The Ac controls are looking great. I'm doing the interior too but I'm making an adapter so I won't have to cut the original connector