Sway Bar End Links - Comparison 555 / Moog

Vehicle - 2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner DBL Cab, 3.4l
History - Approximately 3 years ago I was hearing a popping / knocking noise from the front of my truck when going into my driveway or othter entrances where there was a dip/angle.
I replaced the OEM sway bar links with the Moog Sway Bar End Links using the part #'s below from Moog-Suspension-Parts.com. I didn't notice before but I did when grabbing the pics below from their site that the part number is BECKARNLEY who provides many aftermarket parts. I'm not sure if Moog owns them or vice versa.


Present Day - Started hearing that same popping noise so this go around I went with the 555 brand from Low Range Off Road which I installed Saturday.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...ar-end-link-made-in-japan-tac-sp-sbl0104.html


Comparison Pics -
Drivers side (LH) boots on the sway bar end links were both torn open exposing the ball joint to the elements. Pretty sure this is where the occasional popping was coming from.
Passenger side (RH) lower link boot had a thin tear (not pictured).
This isn't to bash Moog parts. Heck, I've got a pair of brand new Moog 81104 coil springs that I'll be replacing the oem with later this month.
But, for certain parts I will be using OEM or the 555 brand because I can definitely see a difference in the build quality. Not only that, the 555's are only about $4 more.

 

Agree, definitely stay with at least 555 aftermarket parts if you're not gonna go with OEM. And that link you're talking about I would feel okay using 555 instead of OEM there. 555 gets boxed into a lot of brands parts. If you order it and the ad shows its 555 BUT it arrives and it's not 555, send it back. I've had to do that. 555 at a minimum, if not OEM

 

Yeah, this site has educated me on that which is why this go around I went with the 555 brand.
Seeing is believing on the build quality.

 

thanks, jammer
now i have to keep my ears tuned into yet another noise to be concerned of
my old truck is all original front suspension components still, all-the-way-around
i just drizzled every bit of everything down up there with FF this past year to see how it goes

 

Hey man, this freakin site makes me alllllllllllllll the time, so I'm glad I can return the favor!

 

i am just spending some good coin on upkeep and maintenance in a wintery climate for survival, not so much for mods!

 

J A Y is your 97 4WD?

 

yes!

my sway bar links look a bit different than these pics

 

Who still uses a swaybar?

 

jbrandt I'm proud to say that mine is a mall crawler, so I need mine when turning around to make another loop through the parking lot

 

I have Moogs on my truck and they seem to be working fine - it's a non-critical part. I drove it for a while with the sway bar disconnected and it was fine, if a bit "lively". The boots are squished, I think because of the lift I'm running up front. I'm wondering if I need to get longer ones.

 

Ive got Duralast on one side and Napa Chasis on the other. Not the end of the world if something like an end link fails so theres really no point in going out of the way for that Japanese quality stuff imo. I like the Napa version just cause it has the wrench flats that make it so you dont have to use the stupid hex head thing.

 

Good report. Thanks for sharing.

 

If you're lifted and running a coil anywhere near 600# rating you don't need a sway bar... even to make them turns in a mall parking lot.

I should know... My truck is full on Mall Crawler... I've been told that by those who apperantly know more than I do.


If you're lifted and still want to keep the sway bar... there's no real reason to spend high dollar on your end links. As others have stated, it's a non-critical part. They are also too short (by pretty much the same amount your truck is lifted) and you've already put them at an angle that will make them a (non-critical) AND disposable, part.

 

When you uninstalled the old ones, did you have to unscrew that hex bolt before the nut? Tried to uninstall tonight and was struggling.

 

Hold the hex bolt with an allen key while unscrewing the nut.

Its a pita, so just clamp down on the stud from the back side with a pair of vice grips if youre replacing it.

 

So put an allen key in there, clamp the back, and it should start to spin?

 

No just clamp the back and spin the nut off. The allen key will strip out 99% of the time.

 

Don't know if I just got lucky but on both my Tacoma and 4Runner, I didn't mess with the allen-keyed bolt.

I just put my impact wrench to the nut and zipped it right off.

 

That's what I did today, I'm gonna try the other method tomorrow