Sway bar removal or quick disconnect.

Get a Redarc, not the cheapest but byfar the nicest packaging and easy to use.

 

Just removed the sway bar on my f150 that I daily. I do have bilstein 5100s halfway up the notch ladder which stiffen things up a little, but it was a giant improvement removing it. Will see if sway is bad when I haul the taco, but man I forgot how nice it is to ditch that thing. So much smoother on my neglected half mile dirt/gravel driveway. Night and day.

 

I have been bouncing between those and a cheap Reese. Definitely want the Redarc.

 

I had aftermarket stiffer springs, Bilstein 5100s on the 4th out of 5 notches with 700 lbs springs on my 2001 Tundra, and removed the sway bar, and high speed cornering on mountain passes on the highways was insane, I will never do that again. After one trip across the mountains I reinstalled it. I cannot imagine towing anything without the sway bar connected. It's not specifically about the body roll, it's more about how the sway bar makes the truck more predictable at high speeds.

There has to be a way to have a quick disconnect for offroad driving, it's possible.

 

I agree about towing, but I've made myself carsick a couple times on Highway 1 in Cali. The missing sway bar never gave me pause and it was a hoot. Near me, there is a good twisty motorcycle road that isn't as great as 1 or Aufderheide Drive, but never a moment that I questioned the removal. The Taco does not have enough up travel to really heel over.

It is a very personal preference though. I kinda like the bit of roll in the Taco but hate it in cars. Haha!


There are some QD ideas out there, but the only one that looked reasonable was the end links with T pins. I don't think that guy makes them any more?

If the SB connected to the LCA instead of the stanchion, there would be a lot more possibilities.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcgKbUTQJy8

Time to remove my sway bar and die like a real man

 

More that ma balls are in my wife's purse. With the SB, rolling over the curb to our driveway got some dirty looks.

 

Shit, I just realized I never got back to you guys. So I got 5100’s all around and. In the front I got the old man emu spring coded 885X with the ring sitting all the way to the bottom, on the rear I removed the overload leaf and added 3 from another pack. I removed the sway bar upon installation and I’m never coming back. I don’t feel any roll or nothing crazy. Feels firm when in needs to and plush when cycling at low speeds. Love it! If anyone is looking for an OT sway bar with new links, then talk to me so I can sell it to you for some change.

 

Kai coming with the facts!!!

 

it’s not about the sensation of the body roll. It’s about the physical effect of a body that rolls and therefore creating a dangerous weight transfer to the opposite side during evasive maneuvers which can destabilize the entire car and cause you to go all over the place.

The sway bar makes sure that your tires stay planted as it transfers the weight of the body to the other side. That’s why race cars have them. They have very stiff sway bars but the suspension is just compliant enough to keep the tires on the road. People who want no body roll usually stiffen up the suspension which is the wrong way to go about it. You want a compliant suspension. Stiffening it up will cause a loss of traction to some degree. The right way to do this is to get stiffer sway bar links, bushings and even a thicker bar. But that’s not what we’re looking for here anyway.

I just recently saw a video on a FB of a horrible crash. A Taco (not sure if sway bar was installed but it’ll still get the point across) getting into a head on collision because the driver tried to evade a car from on going traffic crossing into his lane. The body roll of the truck was so severe that the weight of the cabin pulled the car into the opposite lane causing a head on collision with oncoming traffic. The truck was also bouncing like a bouncy house. That’s what happens when the suspension is stiff. You’re hopping because you have poor road compliance.

 

Head on collisions and loss of control can happen with or without sway bars. It’s all about not exceeding the limit. Let’s remember that these are not race/track trucks, they are intended to go from point a to point b caring some shit in the back. I have swayed away from hazards at highway speeds sitting on 5100’s and in my personal scenario I don’t carry around unnecessary weight therefore I don’t have that mass weight toll.

 

I gotta admit, it's weird seeing someone reply to ol' Stun, who's been banned for nearly four years now.

He's still TWs most polarizing miscreant.

 

Here's a $750 quick-disconnect system https://www.apexdesignsusa.com/products/kwiklynx

It uses the "sliding pillar" concept but attaches to the upper ball joint stud, and is designed to not rattle. In addition to the sliding links, there's a shock absorber on the sway bar itself, which probably contributes to the high cost:

 

Hmmm $750 or spend 90 seconds each time you want to remove the bar (if you don't have a skid plate)...tough call.
Or just throw the sway bar in the garbage and hope you never have to dodge a moose, which is what I chose to do.

 

^Yeah deleted mine too, and running 700lb springs:



You will typically have a skid plate in situations where deleting the sway bar is beneficial.

If you're handy with a welder you can also copy this design and modify the OEM sway bar:

 

I contest that.

The guy would have been able to evade the oncoming car crossing into his lane with a more direct steering response. That is the thing. Trucks are generally less stable than passenger cars so why one would want to exaggerate that behavior by removing the sway bar is beyond me.

You can actually get more flex out of your IFS if you install a rear sway bar. That way you won’t loose too much stability. And if needed you can disconnect it without worrying about ripping up your CV boots since it’s in the rear. But hey you do you lol

 

It’s going to be a little difficult to contest what I feel in my truck. I gain nothing from reporting false information.

I believe you’re talking about the video by Kai showing how the FJ performs with a stronger sway bar in the rear and no front sway bar. But remember FJ’s are rear coiled, multi link system in the back plus a boxed frame. Tacomas are C channel leaf sprung.

No need to reply my dude. Different folks, different strokes and the Beauty of it it’s that each and own can decide how to spend or not their money.