Swaybar Removal with a 6" Dropbracket?

Soooo... I've got a 2000 Taco with a Fabtech 6 inch drop bracket lift. I've been considering removing the sway bar links, or the whole sway bar itself. I know it currently appears to be a mall crawler, but i've taken it to some surprisingly tight and gnarly places for what it is. On my old Taco (Not Lifted), I removed the swaybar. My worry is that with the combination of the lift and removal of the swaybar, I could get some pretty bad speed wobble.

Right now the rear bump stops hit, and the front end doesn't flex at all. Could I possibly get a softer sway bar?

 

Those lifts aren't exactly designed to flex. If flex is what you want, return it to stock and throw in a standard coilover suspension lift. I would be terrified to remove the sway bar with a drop bracket setup.

 

It would be easier to just sell it and buy a new truck, I would have to weld on a new crossmember =(

 

Solid axle is still a viable option.

 

Not with my current money situation =( I think ill just leave the sway-bar on for now, my old non lifted taco had a decent amount of body when I removed it, I couldn't imagine how much this would have.

 

shock/spring setup might be too stiff, I am betting there is a giant coil spacer in there, which obviously doesn't help things.

 

also having a drop bracket will give the illusion of no flex. I have 2.5" lift and this is how I flex. But if I raised up the body more, it would look less pronounced. So it might be an illusion. You may want to actually measure your up/downtravel and see if it's less than stock. It should at best flex as much as stock.

 

I mean there is plenty of flex, enough to tuck the rear tires. The issue is there is almost no flex from the front and it is super rigid.

 

It's my understanding that you lose almost all of your ability to flex the front end with a drop bracket lift, which is why you don't see a lot of guys that wheel running DB lifts (that and you don't gain much front end ground clearance because the front drivetrain stays in it's stock location). They are good for retaining stock geometry but that's about it...I would look into reversing the lift and putting a 2 or 3 inch coilover lift on the truck instead

taking the sway bar off might help but I don't know how the sway bar comes into play with DB lifts...with coilover lifts, removing the sway bar gives you a little more articulation. You get a little more body roll but if you have stiffer springs it's not all that noticeable.

 

IMO the swaybar is just as effective on both trucks. This is due to the fact that there is blocks on the swaybar that make it still usable.. I'll drop some pics of the whole setup when I get home for anyone who is curious.

 

Welding in a crossmember isnt that hard. I say remove lift and get quality coil over lift. Sell the DB lift to recoup a little $.

 

If I had a spare vehicle to borrow while I did that project, I probably would. I plan on selling this truck in a year or two. So I think when I do that and get a new truck, I'll do the suspension correctly, unlike the previous owner.

 

If you plan it properly, you should only be out of a vehicle for a day. Get the suspension you desire, remove DB lift, weld in new crossmember, install new system, sell DB kit to another member at half price.