Switched power underhood

I believe I have read everything thread about constant and switched power and installing an accessory fuse block and relays.

I am one of those guys that needs part of my panel to be hot only in acc/ign mod. taking the advice of others I went through my main fuse panel and came up with the following.

The fuses with the dots are not hot when the ignition is off. The only ones that are on in acc or ign are the INJ and the EFI No. 3 and EFI no. 4.

I have read that the EFI is not a good place to tape because it may cycle back on when the ign is on. I haven't seen anything really about the INJ fuse, expect that it has been tapped with an add a fuse to run raptor lights.

I am putting together an acc fuse panel and my first project electrical project was adding Katzkin Degreez. Initially, I was going to wire everything up in the cab, but I changed my mind and decided, after researching on TW, that an accessory fuse block would be a cleaner way to run accessories. so that is what I am doing.

I only need the power to run the relay. So, long story short, I want to keep all the wiring in the engine bay. So is the INJ really the only option I have and is there a down side to using an add a fuse at INJ.

I am open to other ideas to get acc/ing power to the relay i am using. BTW, I am using the Painless Performance Cirkit Boss Aux Fuse block

I

 

There are two IGN sources inside the aux relay box next to the main relay & fuse box.

 

When I read the title of the thread, I was hoping OP installed V8 or something...

 

So do I just splice off either one of those number 2 relay posts? I considered running a splice off of a relay, but I could not find much on it. That helps

thanks a lot Caribe!

 

Get these type of fuse taps and carefully straighten the end with slot.

 

Thanks!

 

Heat shrink cover any exposed metal...

 

Will do.

 

FWIW, I used an add-a-fuse on the INJ fuse, so that the Switch-Pros will turn on when the truck is on. Works for what you're trying to do too.

 

So change the source...

 

I'll probably give that a try sometime in the next few days.

 

Got it wired up just like you showed. Pic below. I used a Painless Fuse block. trying to figure out a way to waterproof the terminal strip, but not that worried about that. Also, I don;t have all the wires connected yet.

Thanks for your help!

 

Have any pics on the truck? Thanks!

 

Sorry I was posting my reply in the worng place.

I used the tap suggested by Caribe and the ran the hot wire, which is pink into the fuse box by drilling a small hole in the lid and used a rubber grommet to weather protect it. I then added the fuse tap to the pink wire and added it to the fuse prong. I had to do a little filing to get it to fit over the prong.

Yes, the tap sits flush under the fuse. These pics should help more.

Pic 1 shows the axillary fuse panel and the pink wire to the tacoma's fuse box.

Pic 2 show the tap and how I have it oriented. BTW it is pointed toward the passenger side of the engine bay.

Pic 3 shows the tap under the fuse and how it sits under the fuse.

Pic 4 shows how I tapped into the tacoma's fuse box.

 

Thank you much! I appreciate it! About how much current would you say that fuse block draws? Any issues?

 

The tap is for IGN activation of the relay that supplies the juice...

 

I don't recall. but here is the fuse block I used: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/p.php?s=fuse7. (Painless 7 circuit)you can see the fuses that came with it, for amperage draw. the hot wire (the pink one) draws nominal power. The Painless website has the manual you can download: https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/70207.pdf

I haven't had a single issue. I mulled over this project for a long time worried about tapping into the fuse, but everything is completely reversible if I decide to undo it.

 

You DO have a relay for the juice to the block, correct? (hope so)

 

Thank you. I’m thinking of using to power some led grill lights directly. Maybe I ought to think more carefully about that...