Synthetic Oil change intervals

As a part of troubleshooting - that makes more sense to me.

But, doing an oil analysis just so you can stretch the oil intervals - to me, is an excuse not to change your oil.

Has anyone actually done an oil analysis on regular oil? I wonder what the differences between synthetic data and regular oil data after 5,000 miles? You'd think the regular oil data would be similar and/or not anywhere near it's lifespan (in terms of the data) or else our intervals would be sooner.

 

Yes I have. I ended up only running Castrol GTX in my 4.3L Sonoma. For some reasons the 4.3L engine likes oil changes at 3K for both Syn and Dino oil. If the change interval got up to 4K then there would be a higher lead content in the oil.

In my Bonneville I run Redline and have no issues. Usually I change the oil twice a year. I put between 10 and 12K on the Bonneville a year. The car is used for trips and going to and from church. I try to run it to work once every other week.

 

I won't speak to traditional engine oil. I've been using AMSOIL products since 1979. I don't drive as much as I once did, but in many years I ran over 20,000 miles on a single crankcase drain.

No problems.

AMSOIL also stresses filtration in its marketing. When possible, I use a foam air filter with their filter oil.

AMSOIL guarantees a consumer's engine against failure of their lubricant. They have never had to pay on that promise. I suspect anyone who tried was found to have failed to service the air filter as required, killing the engine with silicon.

I don't think that oil analysis is cost-effective for vehicles like our Tacomas. I DO use oil analysis for my airplane's engine. That engine is worth more than my spanking new Taco, even though it is a tiny, 300 cubic inch, fifty-year-old, six-cylinder of only 145 BHP. But there is oil analysis and there is oil analysis. Unless you use the AVLAB service at Kenner, Louisiana you haven't had a full analysis of your oil.

AVLAB always freaks when they do my sample because the AMSOIL Racing Oil I use in it has a high magnesium content. The engine's accessory drive cover is magnesium. They freak, thinking the engine's eating itself up. Allowing for the mg/l of Mg in the lubricant, my engine isn't wearing. Its latest compression check, at 3/4 of suggested overhaul interval, is the best on record.

What this means for my Taco is that I won't waste my time, on my back, doing engine lube changes and can use that time to do more three-dimensional travel.

 

I use Mobil 1 Ext, eather a Napa Gold or Mobil filter, I change the filter at 5k & will change the oil at 10k. Mobil 1 says that there oil is good till 15k but thats ok. Also another thing that I do is I clean the wipper blades off with silicone each week keeps them clean & lasting longer. I clean the K&N filter at 5k & do the throttle plates as well, Yes I know its over kill...

 

You would be fine to use good regular old dino oil if you are following the recommended service interval, it is after all the recommended oil is it not? Why bother wasting your money with synthetic? Many manufactures that supply their motors with synthetic oil from the factory recommend a service interval of up to 13,000mi or 1 year, for gas engines. If its good enough for Mercedes Benz. Its good enough for my Toyota. You should take a wander over to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ Some very good info there!

 

Some great information on here, but all of this talk about change intervals got me thinking about moisture and I haven't seen anyone comment on it yet.

I heard form a car expert on a radio show, that if you do a lot of short drives (which I do in my truck) that you should change your oil sooner. Because this can cause moisture and then water to get in your oil. Which then can cause "engine slapping" or space between the connecting rod bearing and crankshaft bearing.

Has anyone heard of this, and should someone change they're oil sooner because of this, or what? No matter if it is dino or synthetic oil? Or what kind of oil filter?

Just thought I would throw that out there and see what everyone thinks on this.

 

Because it's not a waste of money (to me) ...to use synthetics & change it every 5,000 miles. My oil is dark/black enough after 5,000 miles that I choose not to leave it in there any longer.

 

i agree. i change my mobil 1 oil and fram filter every 10,000 miles. i do it on the tens so it's easy to remember. just changed it at 80,000 on my 03 taco.

 

Have you considered that maybe the MB engines are designed from the get go with synthetic in mind?

 

So! You continue to watch an analog television (adapted) and communicate though a rotary-dial telephone, cook your meals on a wood-burning stove and post on this blog with a Commodore 64. Wow!

Some of us have decided that engineered lubricants are more efficient than cat-cracked dead dinosaur, providing drain intervals of up to one year/36,000 miles. A few are figuring that out now. I figured it out in 1979. You might want to catch up.

 

Isn't that just like a dealer, each one has their own idea. When I inquired about a change to syn at my local dealership, they said "at the first oil change"

Of course many manufacturer's use syn oil right from the start...

Jeff, 06,v6 SR5 6spd

 

I would agree if you do all short drives, that you should probably change your oil out a bit sooner maybe at 8000mi instead of 10,000mi? However a much easier, cheaper and more fun waywould be to once a week or at least a couple times a month take your truck out for a good hour or longer "spirited" drive, all you need to do to get any moisture out of your oil is to get it hot for a prolonged period!

Wilson the dog, I think perhaps you have it the other way around, I believe oil companies develop specific oil for specific engines. Say Ferrari for example, you must use a certain Shell synthetic oil or else your warranty will be voided. This is because there would be certain materials in bearings, races, camshafts, internal engine parts... that the Ferrari engineers want a specific lubricant for. Things not commonly found in regular motor oils. Besides by your own logic your engine was designed for dino oil and NOT synthetic, did you ever think about that?

 

Another area where water will kill ya on short drives is in the muffler. Water will collect in the exhaust system and rust it from the inside out.

 

I swapped to synthetic awhile back... I let one change go to over 7k miles and never again. I could feel the loss in power and I knew it was getting time. Dino oil was evident at 4k when it was time to change. I let my oil light come on, then I change it. So about 5500 now.

 

My input on the subject. Oil now a days is great. I would say almost any brand of oil, wether it be synthetic or dino will last up to about 10k miles. The filter is the scary part. If a filter becomes clogged, which they all have a potential to over 5k, then a valve shuts inside the filter and oil will run straight through, unfiltered. So I would be more worried about what filter you are using instead of oil. I personally change mine every 5k miles on naturally aspirated vehicles. On a boosted vehicle like my old STi, I would change it every 3k miles. And I would rather waste a little oil by changing it sooner rather than doing damage to my motor. $50 a month or 4k for a new engine. You decide

 

With all due respect from my MA. brother on the Cape. I don't believe you loose any HP by allowing your oil to go beyond 5K. HP on a motor is a function of air in vs. air out and fuel of course. I guess if you put it on a dyno you really would have some numbers to base this on.

There is no question that short trips where the engine does not come up to operating temp is not the best situation, as moisture is the big problem. Giving the truck or car a trip of a half hour or longer will get rid of that moisture.
Jeff, 06, V6, SR5 , 6spd

 

Not saying its a huge difference but I know I feel it in low end torque. When you drive the same roads everyday and know when your truck shifts on the hills you make the connections in your head. It was a big difference in my prevous old 87 ranger.... the difference was like night and day if I let the oil go too long in that beast.

You kinda have to think though, the older oil gets, its viscosity changes, the sediment builds as your filter gets full... I suppose ultimately the better solution is a great filter. Personally I've never been one to spend 20 bucks on a ridiculous filter. I wont spend any more than the Mobil 1 filters and they're expensive enough. Oil changes shoudn't cost 50 bucks IMO.

 

What oil do you use? I totally agree with what your saying, you can feel it ALOT in the old 2 stroke detroit diesels! However if your using the right weight and good quality motor oil, the viscosity shouldn't change that much. Especially if your using synthetic oil. Filtration is key changing your oil filter every 5000mi is a great way to prolonging the life of your oil.

 

20 - 25k Amsoil, AeO filter, lots of highway miles, easy driver. And worth noting that so far I've never added oil between changes, I swear I lose more oil wiping off he dipstick than this engine uses.

My 05 has 145K+ miles and I'm about to have my first brake job on the front and will be replacing the bearings too.

So far I had the right front wheel bearing pack replaced under warranty, and the left rear axle seal replaced.

 

I use whatever synthetic is on sale, 5w 30. I usually run it for 6k miles.