1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Synthetic oil in 2.7L?

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by norcal4banger, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. Dec 9, 2012 at 8:52 PM
    #41
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2012
    Member:
    #73470
    Messages:
    16,493
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rich
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle:
    08 Base
    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    Any weight from 0w20 to 5w30 is acceptable depending on usage and primary ambient temperatures, depending on the year.
    For my 2005, 2006, and interestingly, 2010, it is acceptable to run 5w30 in the 2.7. The 4.0 requires 5w30 or 5w20 up to 2010. 2010-2012, 0w20 is also acceptable.


    There is no "better be" about any weight and synthetic.
    Synthetic ALLOWS alternative weights to be used, such as 0w20, or for Diesel trucks, 5w40, where conventional oil mandates 5w20 or 15w40 because of the viscosity improvers required would result in an oil that could not hold up for 5000 miles.
    But if you run synthetic, you can run 0w20, 5w20, or if your spec allows for it, 5w30.
     
  2. Jan 11, 2013 at 4:28 PM
    #42
    texascolt45

    texascolt45 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2012
    Member:
    #93182
    Messages:
    238
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    mike
    groves texas
    Vehicle:
    prerunner 4 cylinder
    wheels,bilsteins,side bars
    ive run 5w/20 in my last 2 trucks when new.after 100,00 miles i switch to 10w/30.theres actually bulk oil distributors here close that will sell you a 32 gallon drum of mobil 1.kinda pricey but you got oil for 2 cars forever.
     
  3. Jan 11, 2013 at 8:41 PM
    #43
    808tacomas

    808tacomas Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2011
    Member:
    #62088
    Messages:
    109
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    kingrob
    oahu
    Vehicle:
    2011 toyota tacoma 4door 4 cyl.
    working on it..need some advice
    mobil 1 0w20 is the way to go
     
  4. Jan 11, 2013 at 9:33 PM
    #44
    91r100gs

    91r100gs Understand the Voice Within

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2008
    Member:
    #6100
    Messages:
    653
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Kansas City area
    Vehicle:
    '08 Impluse Red SR5 I-4
    Factory bed mat, TacomaWorld.com sticker, EGR In-Channel Vent Visors, AFE ProDryS drop in air filter
    Heck I am even going to try 10w-30 Maxlife Full Syn this summer. Amazon screwed up and sent it instead of 5w-30. They sent the replacement 5w-30 no charge and said to dispose of the 10w-30 as I please. I doubt if it blows up if I use it in my truck in the summer. Probably put some in my lawn mower, as it specs 10w-30. It has a great NOACK rating.
     
  5. Jan 12, 2013 at 8:05 AM
    #45
    boatswain

    boatswain Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2011
    Member:
    #48621
    Messages:
    1,919
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    carl
    palmerton,PA.
    Vehicle:
    09 barcelona red , base
    I switched to synthetic at around 186,000, on a 95 Tacoma 2.7. My neighbor bought it at 227,000 mi. No problems at all after switching to the syn.
     
  6. Jan 18, 2013 at 5:16 AM
    #46
    alexander323bc

    alexander323bc Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2010
    Member:
    #46454
    Messages:
    617
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eric
    Buffalo New York
    Vehicle:
    4cyl access cab
    My service plan just ended and I will be chaning my own oil. I am going to with mobile 1 and either a filter from the dealer or a mobile 1 filter depending on which one is easier to get my hands on. Are most of you guys changing the gasket on the bolt that goes into the oil pan? I believe that's what the gasket is they are talking about in the guide. I never did that with my 4 runner, I guess I never thought about it.
     
  7. Jan 18, 2013 at 7:40 AM
    #47
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2009
    Member:
    #22094
    Messages:
    928
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Friend
    Sacramento, CA
    Vehicle:
    2006 2.7L SR5 2-wheel drive
    aFe Pro Dry air filter, magnetic oil drain plug, synthetic seat covers, steering wheel cover
    Many here at TW do replace the oil plug gasket during an oil change, but not all. I don't replace the one in my 2006 Tacoma, and I have never replaced it in any of my other vehicles (AMC, Ford, Ford, Ford, Mazda) and I have *never* had a leaky plug. I am careful not to under- or over-tighten, which may or may not have anything to do with my good experience, I don't know. But I do know those gaskets are extremely inexpensive, so if you feel better replacing it, then do it and drive happy. If you are at the dealer anyway to buy a filter, just ask them for some plug gaskets and they might give you a handful for free, I've heard this from several TW users -- the dealers sometimes just give 'em away.
     
  8. Jan 18, 2013 at 7:44 AM
    #48
    medusa1066

    medusa1066 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2011
    Member:
    #65457
    Messages:
    189
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Morgantown, WV
    Vehicle:
    2007 4x4 TRD Sport
  9. Jan 18, 2013 at 10:42 AM
    #49
    alexander323bc

    alexander323bc Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2010
    Member:
    #46454
    Messages:
    617
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eric
    Buffalo New York
    Vehicle:
    4cyl access cab
    Thanks for the reply! Medusa are you using that now? its not a little bit of overkill?
     
  10. Jan 18, 2013 at 10:54 AM
    #50
    Tylerm5000

    Tylerm5000 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2011
    Member:
    #55840
    Messages:
    320
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tyler
    Oregon
    Vehicle:
    1995.5 2.7l reg cab 4x4 5-speed red pearl
    Alcan stock height 4-leaf springs, greaseable main eye bolts, OME greaseable shackles, all energy suspension bushings, 2-row extra deep radiator, KYB gas-a-just shocks. ALL LED exterior and interior lighting including custom tail lights and blinkers.
    The 2.7l runs very well on synthetic. No issues.
     
  11. Jan 18, 2013 at 11:01 AM
    #51
    medusa1066

    medusa1066 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2011
    Member:
    #65457
    Messages:
    189
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Morgantown, WV
    Vehicle:
    2007 4x4 TRD Sport
    Overkill is up for debate :D. It makes the process very clean, even more convenient. Never have to worry about a crush washer. I like it, just my opinion.
     
  12. Jan 18, 2013 at 8:18 PM
    #52
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2012
    Member:
    #73470
    Messages:
    16,493
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rich
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle:
    08 Base
    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    +1

    Place pan under engine, open valve, have a beer or two while cleaning up the engine compartment, close the valve, replace the filter, refill, and done.


    M1 filter is one of the better filters available, but the OEM filter can be had for around $4/filter from Camelback, Titus-Will, or Toyota of Dallas.
    There's no reason not to run OEM. It is better than the Mobil-1 filter.
     
  13. Jan 19, 2013 at 5:43 AM
    #53
    Rackster

    Rackster Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 11, 2012
    Member:
    #78628
    Messages:
    381
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kevin
    Connecticut
    Vehicle:
    '04 E/cab 4x4 2.7 Auto SR5
    Good information and advice. I also recommend visiting Bobistheoilguy to read up on all things 'oil'. Lots of folks out there getting ripped off by dealers and quick lube shops who replace dino oil with synthetics but keep the interval the same. Having your oil tested is key to learning what your interval might be. In the test reports I've seen, test facilities sometimes offer clues as to what your oil change interval might be. This is why it's important to test more than once in a step process to know where contaminants are reaching hazardous/corrosive levels and where the oil properties are broken down to a point you risk engine wear or damage.

    Changing more frequently than you need to is only robbing you of your hard earned dollars. But without the test results, you are better off following the manufacturer's recommend change interval and specified oil. Also check with your dealer: some have revised what oil can be used safely in your engine as newly developed oils not available when your Tacoma was born might be sanctioned for use. Good luck!!

    PS - Rich's point on the filter selection is spot on as well. Folks sometimes are unaware that the aftermarket design is substandard and/or more expensive without offering any benefit (or possibly detracting from effectiveness). Don't buy on pricetag assuming that more expensive equates to 'better'. Also, buy in bulk to save money or leverage a sale/coupon if possible. After doing your research, select the filter you are most comfortable with.
     
  14. Jan 21, 2013 at 2:42 PM
    #54
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2008
    Member:
    #7173
    Messages:
    3,199
    new jersey
    Vehicle:
    tacoma
    Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter, PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
    Based on what prey tell ? Don't have any idea why you would switch back but don't know any reason why you couldn't.
     
  15. Jan 21, 2013 at 3:11 PM
    #55
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2012
    Member:
    #73470
    Messages:
    16,493
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rich
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle:
    08 Base
    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    Absolutely no reason you can't switch back, and you quoted a post from 18 months ago.
     
  16. Jan 26, 2013 at 6:07 AM
    #56
    alexander323bc

    alexander323bc Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2010
    Member:
    #46454
    Messages:
    617
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eric
    Buffalo New York
    Vehicle:
    4cyl access cab
    Thanks for the feedback medusa, I am looking at the valve more now :). I was a little worried with 0-20w when its 0 out. Not joking literally 0 and the truck ran just fine :)
     
  17. Jan 28, 2013 at 7:02 AM
    #57
    medusa1066

    medusa1066 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2011
    Member:
    #65457
    Messages:
    189
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Morgantown, WV
    Vehicle:
    2007 4x4 TRD Sport
    :cheers:
     
  18. Feb 10, 2013 at 8:17 AM
    #58
    Mike84

    Mike84 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2013
    Member:
    #97055
    Messages:
    18
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Mobile Alabama
    Vehicle:
    2012 Double Cab 2.7
    My 2012 came with synthetic and when I brought it in for the 5k service they didn't change the oil they told me it was due at 10k I had them change it regardless and it was also synthetic. I just can't do a 10k oil change... Maybe I am throwing money out I used to do 5k intervals with my 09 and it was Dino oil.
     
  19. Feb 10, 2013 at 12:59 PM
    #59
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2012
    Member:
    #73470
    Messages:
    16,493
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rich
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle:
    08 Base
    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    Prior to 2003/2004/2005, Toyota had both 5000 mile and 7500 mile recommended service intervals.

    Around 2003 or so, as they "facelifted" the dash displays on various models, they added the "Maintenance Required" light, and they eliminated the 7500 mile service interval.

    My 2003 Tundra had 7500/5000 mile intervals, my wife's '04 Rav4 has the idiot light and only 5k intervals.

    And these intervals were predicated on conventional oil. I personally go with 5k intervals and full synthetic because I feel that it is cheap insurance, but honestly, 10k is not a problem on a quality synthetic and the Toyota OEM filter.
    Repeated tests with used oil analysis show that the TBN (additive package) holds up fine to about 12k.
     
  20. Feb 10, 2013 at 3:31 PM
    #60
    tacomathom

    tacomathom Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 29, 2010
    Member:
    #38040
    Messages:
    869
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    It's not new, it's not Mexico
    Vehicle:
    2010 4 X 2 Regular Cab
    Chrome exhaust tip
    Mike, if you're worried about the 10000 mile engine oil change then change the oil filter at 5000. That's what I did with my Celica for many years.
     
To Top