Synthetic Oil yes or no

Walmart.........$17.47 jug full syn 5w30

TRD filter......? better than OEM or same ? more $$$$$$

Rotella T6 full syn 5w40.......JASO/wet clutch approved...in my Rhino SxS

 

i use valvoline synthetic OEM filter. with how todays dino oils are they would be fine to use in reality

 

I use Sinclair oil as it has been aged.

 

what he said...

 

Another one??????

Look, there is no such beast as "full synthetic" for IC engines it is marketing. the cleaners and additives are what make it "synthetic"

You want a good oil, go to the store and pick one, they are ALL pretty equal these days. The myth about mixing or once you go syn you can't go back is bullshit as is the myth about synthetic causing leaks or burning. The only way that happens is if you were running a non detergent single weight oil from 1923 and you change to a multi weight detergent oil. Synthetic will not cause a leak to become worse either, if you had a leak before it will still leak, the exception is these muppets that add Lucas or some other crap to the oil that has a seal swell ingredient, then you change the oil and don't add the crap and it leaks.....not the oils fault. This happens a lot with used cars or private sellers who are trying to pull one over on people.

personally I use Mobil 1 and either an OEM or Mobil 1 filter.

 

I used synthetic, its alright. It last's longer but is also more expensive

 

Since they are all the same why don't you get store brand dino oil it is MUCH cheaper than high price mobile 1 synthetic? C'mon man

 

personally, the store brand is MORE expensive than my bulk purchase of Mobil. I use it in 3 vehicles for a total of 15 qts, I get a break on buying it in large quantities.

I have used Delo and everything else, even store oil. never had a problem, I use what I can get in large quantities, las time I swapped oil it cost just over 60 bucks for BOTH cars.....DELO oil alone was 55 bucks.......Mobile was on sale and I can get it at WAL MART or Sams Club or Costco for cheap.

0-30 Mobil 1 is 30-40 dollars a gallon, Valvoline is 50, autozone does not even have "store oil" Oriely has store oil only in qts and it is 10 bucks more than Mobile1.

oh wait Wally world has gallons for 26.00.........

Like I said before, OIL is OIL, it is WHAT is put IN the oil that makes the "difference" I could post links, but I doubt any of ya would read them.

 

The funny thing about any thread comparing conventional oil to synthetic is the level of real science behind most replies. People will all chime in and say that they use xxxx brand oil and have never had any problems, therefore it's the best oil in the whole world. Really? And for how long have you used that particular oil? Many have used it for less than 20,000 miles. Now I ask you, how many oil related failures have you heard of in engines having less than 150,000 miles on them - no matter what oil was used and how often it was changed? Probably none.

I'd propose that literally any oil (conventional or synthetic) you can buy these days is probably good enough to get you over 100,000 miles of zero oil related failures. Where the differences will show up is further down the line. And what percentage of us keep a vehicle for over 100,000 miles? I'd be willing to bet that although a number of folks will chime in and say they do, probably over 95% of us do not. So as particular as I am about changing my oil and filter every 7,000 miles (using synthetic oil & a premium filter), the benefits are all for the next owner.

 

Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and OEM filter, changed every 5,000 miles, currently at ~130k miles. Used M1 for the first 70k miles, but switched to PP after observing that my '14 Outback burns notably less oil with PP than M1 or any other mainstream synthetic. I don't know why, it just does, so I figured it must be some decent stuff.

 

According to the folks over at BITOG, the Pennzoil has a lower NOACK rating, so that’s why there’s less burnoff.

 

+1

 

Not trying to nitpick here, but the only oil that comes in gallons is Delo and Rotella. The rest of the bottles are 1.25 gallons (5 quarts).

 

True. I believe in Synthetic because of the Cold as Hell starts, and the Hotter than Hell starts, we have here in Canada. That's when it benefits the most, hence Synthetic is better for me.

 

Had to look up what meant, pretty cool, thanks

 

Not pick who cares it is cheaper in 1.25 jugs that in qts. Matters not if it is a US gallon metric gallon or imperial gallon.

 

No truer words have ever been posted.

Choose an oil and run with it.
Tell everyone else to go suck ass.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/400-000-miles.404359/

This guy, 400k. I've been following his recipe, lol. I got lucky and my Walmart clearanced out some Bosch ep filters and I bought like 25 of the bigger ones at $3 each. I get the Mobil 1 ep when it's 5 off through Ibotta at Walmart. It is right now if y'all want to save $5, so is standard M1 and their yearly stuff. So you get M1 for price of dino.

If you want an extra $5, total of $10, use my referral link below or type in the code, if you don't already use the app that it's. Think we both get $5 or something .


https://ibotta.com/r/xandtrx

Code xandtrx

 

Quit wasting your money and buy walmart dino oil.

 

sorry dude,
the Mobil 1 is still cheaper.

and I have vehicle in the stable BUILT on the use of only "synthetic" oil, the logical thing is to buy in bulk and use the same oil in 3 vehicles as opposed to certain oil for each.

Yall can do as you wish, synthetics lasting longer and being better than standard oil is the never ending argument.

the answer is neither is bad, neither is good, neither is best. As of 2018 ALL OIL is good oil, this is not 30-40 years ago when "Synthetics" had an advantage.

EVERY oil and company has a formulation of additives that "make" the oil, some have low ash, others low sulfur, others have extended polymer compounds, and still others formulate with natural gas or charged particulates.

wal mart dino oil is probably made by United Oil, which gets its products from Chevron...probably.....

before this goes any further and people start getting butthurt and the bans start let me make the final statement which is NOT conjecture...



525
6-1. Specifications
6
Vehicle specifications
■
Engine oil selection
“Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” is used in your Toyota vehicle. Use
Toyota approved “Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” or equivalent to satisfy
the following grade and viscosity.
Oil grade: ILSAC GF-5 multigrade engine oil

And Toyota has a "Warranty and Maintenance" guide that says BOTH 2.7 and 4.0 in both schedule A (non synthetic) AND schedule B (synthetic)
the oil is changed at 5,000 miles and a rotation of the tyres is also performed. MAJORITY of manufacturers are at this point for oil.

EITHER synthetics or standard are FINE in BOTH of the engines. NEITHER is recommended over another.

USE WHAT YOU LIKE AND WHAT YOU CAN AFFORD> CHANGE IT OFTEN AND ALWAYS USE QUALITY FILTERS.

END OF ALL OF THIS.

Moderators, can we lock out these bloody oil threads?