T-Bucket build? Or rat style jalopy.

Exactly my reaction. That pan had no water in it when I dropped it, but must have been full at some time and froze.
That's a healthy portion of cast for that large of a crack. It's about 14" long. No broken rods or any sign of impact damage.
Now I'm not sure if the crank is good, but will get it out and have it checked. If that and the cam are good, then maybe the added cost of the extra parts won't be so bad. Biggest letdown is the amount of time I spent with the two broken head studs. The valve train had to be removed anyway to get the cam out.

 

Can't say that I'm surprised. I vote find another donor motor.

 

Well, call it a learning experience and move on.
We all have those moments.

If you could find a real old timer he might be able to successfully weld it for you.

 

There was no way to spot this crack without the pan off, it's not visible on the outside.
That being said, I didn't see it when the pan was off and I was head down, ass up trying to see inside with a flashlight and bifocals.
I have the 8BA block. I'll set it in the sun tomorrow and use a flashlight to check it over. However, gonna do some math tonight and see what one from fleabay would cost, shipped, that actually turns. Gamble that it's not cracked as well... Ordered the "How to rebuild and modify" book yesterday.
On a side note, the cracked block is in the driveway now and I can work on the body for a bit.

 

Ya know, the webbing below it is intact, maybe it can be welded. If the bearings are still in line, why not? It's only 14" long along the inside, and who knows how deep. In an apocalypse, I'd go for it and run it as is.


three survivors, factory original.

So the 8BA block does not appear to have any major cracks, but it does have this nifty deformation in the cast on the front main bearing. I thought it was just schmutz, but no, it's cast material that is raised above the bearing surface. Maybe it can be machined smooth, the bearing material just sits in it. Speaking of, front and center main bearing caps are the same. The rear is entirely different of course..

#6 rod bearing was cracked.

And just for fun, Ford 239 next to a HD 883

 

Nice that the shmutz holds the bearing in place. I always think it's kind of funny how the old engines had this kind of stuff from the factory but still ran forever.

 

Other things I noticed is the 8BA block is missing 7 of the cylinder sleeves.
Has no original main bearing caps or studs.
Uses a different oil pump idler gear and cover.
Has no oil pan or bell housing.

Otherwise everything else was being replaced anyway.