TACO GARAGE - Stealth Power Port

you can see how to get to it by youtubing the "etc anytime mod" that module is located close enough to the cig outlet

 

Here's the piggyback terminals I used for another project. You'll have to cut and crimp the wires on though: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-9...s-sconf-prdlink_sma-716_7&elqCampaignId=37423

 

Alright here’s my write up on this install, learn from my mistakes.

I removed the lighter socket without removing the bezel because I thought this plug would pop out just as easy as the others but I was way wrong on that. Below is not exactly what I did but rather what I should have done.

You will want to buy the lighter socket removal tool and the piggyback terminals to mimic this install.

First step would be to remove all the dash bezels until you have the bottom switch panel out (pretty easy lots of YouTube videos showing how to get em all off)

Once you have everything unplugged you will use the lighter socket removal tool to pop the black prongs from the inside and push the silver insert out slowly, the black lighter cover needs to stay put while the sleeve comes out, pull straight out don’t wiggle it. (I man handled mine and pulled em both out at the same time which expanded the hole so now after reinstall my lighter socket is loose, no fun I’ll probably get a aftermarket replacement to tighten it up).

Alternatively since you have the bezel off you don’t have to remove the socket and could instead make all the connections with everything exposed. In hindsight this is probably the safer way of going about this install but oh well.

Afterwards this is a good time to bolt the stealth kit to the side of your radio and run the wires behind the radio and to the lighter socket location. With the silver sleeve still out reinstall all your bezels and pull the socket and stealth port wires through the hole.

I insulated my piggyback terminals a bit just to be safe, positive (purple wire) is the skinny prong and negative (tan w/ black stripe wire) is the fat one. Once you do that terminate the stealth wires with a female end and connect it all together and verify your charger works before pushing that silver sleeve back in.

After you verify your stealth port has power you are all set. Pop that silver sleeve inside the cover and you are done.

 

I can attest to using the piggybacks but I used the ones I linked previously. https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-9...s-sconf-prdlink_sma-716_7&elqCampaignId=37423

I installed mine as well this last weekend and here's my added $0.02

1. the installation instructions on the website did not work for me (in particular where to ground)
2. Get the removal tool. I busted up my knuckles something fierce trying to get the wiring plug off the back of the lighter. Mine did not want to come off easily. Once I had it off I had to take it to the car audio shop near my house to borrow their removal tool to get it out the front.
3. I tried the T-tap initially but got zero voltage. I'm pretty sure the ground was the issue. I'd skip this if you're installing this.
4. Pull the wiring through the cigarette lighter hole and then push it back through once all wired up and attached to the lighter.
5. I removed the plastic plug since my piggyback terminals required the wires be crimped. Remember the purple is hot and that goes on the small spade of the cigarette lighter.

 

did you ever figured that plug and play harness @TheTacoGarageServiceRep

 

Following.

 

I did this over the weekend. I originally tried to use crimp-on piggybacks, but learned why nobody else did this (it doesn't work). I was able to find the double-male piggyback spade adapters at West Marine in a pinch, no need to wait for shipping etc.

After doing it, I don't like the piggyback spade connector, and may switch it over to Posi-Taps. I dislike the piggybacks because they require modification (I used a dremel) for the positive lead, which is narrower than the negative on the cigarette lighter. The end result is that the fit is not perfect, and while it slips on tight enough, things don't feel "factory" and I worry if it won't slip off over months or years.

I also made up a new negative lead equal in length to the positive one, not sure if others mentioned that being necessary - the negative lead included is apparently for a negative ground?

My kit did not include directions nor any indication of how to find them.

The tap included with the kit is completely unacceptable and went straight in the garbage. At least use a Posi-tap.

The socket came with a rubber cap thing which was 100% useless and in the way, I recommend cutting it off.

 

Great idea, so-so affordable price. However, a HUGE thumbs DOWN for not putting together some sort of instruction sheet to go with it. I understand a small business doesn't want to be liable for damage caused by idiots installing stuff themselves. So, just use a disclaimer "for entertainment purposes ONLY" or "we accept no responsibility" for Pete's sake. It's ridiculous & lame to gladly take a customer's money but then leave them hanging by not showing them how to install the thing.

Big words of "thanks" to TACOMADOME for putting together a quick photo essay on how to do this.

 

there are a ton of videos on YouTube - better than an instruction sheet