Tacodriver08s-Just another SAS

Truck as it was before I started the swap



Figured I would accumulate all the SAS stuff for my build in this thread. Been wanting to do this for a couple of years now, started collecting parts and rebuilding axles in 2017, life is finally letting me take on the rest of the financial endeavor so we will see how this goes.

It's an 05, 6 speed, 210k on it and basically just a trail rig at this point.

Front specs:
Ford D60, came out of a 2011 F250
Yukon 5.13 gears
Lockright no slip locker
ECGS hub lockout slugs
Barnes4wd low profile truss
Mix of Barnes4wd and Artec link parts
Barnes4wd diff cover

Rear specs:
14bolt, came out of a 2000 Savannah 3500
Yukon 5.13 gears
Yukon Grizzly locker
Barnes4wd diff cover shave kit
Keeping my Chevy 63s in the rear for now
1350 pinion yoke, u-bolt style
Lugnut4x4 disc brake kit

Tires & Wheels:
Maxxis Trapador Radials 40x13.5x17
Procomp steelies
Wheels adapters for the rear axle by Wheeladapter.com, 8x6.5 to 8x170mm conversion so that the rear axle will match the front axle lug pattern and WMS

Steering componemts:
Going hydro assist on this one
Toyota IFS steering box, drilled and tapped for HA
Will be using hydraulic components from Surplus Center for the RAM and hoses
Barnes4wd steering kits

Stuff I've accomplished:

Re-geared both axles with all new master install kits so new bearings, shims and solid pinion spacers

New unit bearings, ball joints, seals and axle shaft u-joints on the D60. Also welded the axles tubes to the diff housing while I was at it

New hub bearing, seals and disc brakes added, axles tubes welded as well along with a mini truss I built.

14 bolt is in installed with the wheels and tires on it, rolls around just fine with no issues.

PICS, I have more on my Instagram, to lazy move them over. If anyone has any questions I can try and answer them, I have learned a crap ton so far along this journey.

 

Lots of progress made today, got all the ifs cut out, both sides of frame are cleaned up and the passenger side frame plate is fully welded. The plates were sent with no holes in them so i cut out a couple to help it grab the center of the frame.







And a just because shot

 

More progress made today

Driver side frame plate fully welded, some good welds and some meh welds

Steering box reinforcement plates welded on, I didnt like where the holes were that came pre drilled in the frame plates. I made some new holes and managed the get the steering box moved about 1" forward


Steering box mounted, time to start mocking stuff up

 

Good stuff. What's your Instagram?

Mine is the thehunterandhunted. I'm 3 linking the front on my 2011 right now. I always like seeing progress shots of same gen.

 

Thanks, mine is Tacodriver08, I have more pics on the of the axle builds and other misc fab work ive done and what not on their. Ive been eyeing your build as well, I enjoy watching the fabrication portion of it come along. I am at the point of mounting and measuring my lowers now then onto the panhard and upper.

 

With everything tacked into placed I was able to cycle all the suspension throughout, took some slight adjustments on the upper link and shortening of the pitman steering bolt for it to go through full cycle. Looking at 5" of up travel on both sides, will probably bump it at 4" to leave some breathing room.

Obligatory droop pics

Panhard and steering at full bump, need to cut more ifs remnants from the frame still

So much room for activities near the header, thanks for the idea on that @Pdugan6

Upper link clearance to frame rail 1/4"

Lower link clearance to frame rail 3/4"

Passenger stuffed lock to lock, might clearance the front fender well a little bit still, I'm glad I tubbed the firewalls and relocated the body mounts a while back

Driver stuffed, plenty of clearance at the fender well.

I have about 1 1/2" between the tire and my lower links at full lock, being able to bring in the lower link frame mounts allowed for the clearance and a bit more triangulation

 

Looking good Chris. I’m at a standstill till I get some components. I need to get a new panhard link and make a bend in it and figure out my steering linkage and how it will interfere with my Barnes shock towers. I decided to stick with them.

 

Nice! I'm at a standstill as well, waiting on my kings to show up. I got some Barnes towers as well but I went with the frenched towers, we will see how that goes. Do you know what route your going with the steering?

 

I am going to buy a Toyota steering u-joint and shaft section And wing it. Still figuring it out.

 

That'll work. I'm planning this route, found in @NwiTACOs build thread on here. Pretty good source of info.

 

That's nice. I'll do that.

 

Some combined information in one post--> Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

 

Been a long while since I've updated this thread. Big progress over the last 2 months.

Steering linkage figured out, came out as good as I could have hoped.

Panhard on and gusseted

Tundra brake booster mated to the GM 1 ton master cylinder. @SMKYTXN makes an awesome kit for this.

Shock towers on and coilovers in. Took some modifications to get them in with room to clear the coils.

On her own weight again, pretty sure I either need to jump to a 14" upper coil or go with a little heavier spring weight. Working with filthy motorsports to get the right spring swapped for it. Frame height is 25" on 40s. 5" of up travel and 9" of down travel. The straps and bump stops will come soon.

 

Lots of work right there.

 

No pics of everything yet but I started on the HA hookup. Got everything plumbed, bled the lines and tested it out. Super slow response, dangerous slow if it was on the road.

There's no research for pump flow mods on these PS pumps for the 4.0. Ended diving pretty deep into the functionality of how hydraulics and the ps pumps work. Decided to wing it, ended up drilling out the restrictor plate on the HP port to 5/32, then drilled out the return line fitting and return port from 1/2 to 5/8 to help increase the flow.

Hooked it all back up, bled the system and tested it out. At idle the ram is roughly 3x faster than before. If I hold idle at 1500rpm, the whole systems responds almost perfectly. I'll see how long this last, hopefully the pump holds strong. I did notice that there is no more cavitation in the fluid now whereas it was constant before I modded the pump.

 

That’s good to know the the ol drill out the restrictor mod still is an option. Any plans on going full hydro in the future?

 

Yeah so far so good. Only have about 30 miles on it now. Still breaking in the gears.

I would like to go that route one day, maybe after it's a trailer queen. Would definitely need a high output pump for it though, maybe a modified Saginaw pump.

 

I think Nathan runs the stock pump with full hydro on his Tacoma. Could be wrong though.

Enjoy your truck while it is still street legal. Ha ha

Once it’s a trailer queen it all goes downhill

 

Awesome thread, giving me much needed info for my taco