TACOMA 2016 "What Did You Pay?" Thread

• The Military "Rebate" (Virtually identical to the "Recent College Grad rebate"): I understand came from Mid-Atlantic Toyota (On their budget) and was basically found money for both me and the dealer. They were more than happy to push this thru the deal, and it was super easy. When I closed on my Prius last year, just showed my ID and signed a paper confining I met the qualifications.
• I deeply appreciate the very generous gesture. It will probably have a life long positive effect for me and how I think of Toyota. (I did just close on my 4th one yesterday). And the rebate was probably the tipping point where I could comfortably spend the coin on a new Tacoma.

• After a long negotiation period, the best deal the local dealer came down to was $1,000 over invoice + taxes. Minus the $1k rebate that put me at invoice + taxes. (About $2.7k lower than they were for the same exact truck 9 weeks ago.) I thought this was pretty good deal since the rebate is essentially found money for a job I do anyway regardless of what kind of car/truck I buy.
• With a referral from someone here, I ended up contacting the internet sales manager from a dealer ~150 miles south. In about 30 minutes total: (One e-mail, two 90 phone calls and one text). We had a deal and an even better price. They accepted the Military "rebate" just like a coupon at the grocery store. Yes I drove ~6 hours total yesterday, but was in/out of the dealer in less than 45 minutes (Would have been 30 if I didn't putz around). Super easy, fast, no-stress, no-pressure, getting exactly what I want and a great deal (~$2,800 less than the exact same truck the local dealer insisted on 9 weeks ago). I think this is my 9th new car I've bought in my life and definitely the easiest. (And it is a special order).

 

New member here. Anybody have any suggestions on sending mass emails to dealers for quotes? Should they all be included in the first email or sent separately? I've been working with just one dealer and I am having a hard time negotiating. I heard this is a viable strategy.

 

Either use an online car finder site or mass email every one you would be willing to travel to. Then use these quotes to start working the dealerships against each other, but not the one you really want to use. Once you have a price you like or feel is fair, go to the dealership you want to use and see if they will match or beat it, if not go to where the deal is.

 

Putting everyone in a mass e-mail is a dick move in my opinion. I'm in sales and I don't like that. I find relationships are very important and I like to support the local economy and support the small business vs the mega "Stores". I went to my local dealer first, part of a big chain in the DC area, they are on the smaller size and in my smaller city ~50 miles outside the Metro area. The Market was not in my favor in Aug, that and they were more interested in selling dealer stock. I then waited 8 weeks for the market to cool down (Supply and demand) that plus end of the month/quarter/year were the biggest factors I'm sure. Local dealer reengaged me and I was back in the market. My recent experiences and recommendations:

• Be patient, time is on your side. These are not limited edition trucks, they make 1,000's every month and will make the same models for months to come.
• Be willing to travel at least a few hundred miles to find the right vehicle at the right price. I searched all the sites (Edmunds, KBB etc.) Up to 400 miles out. Looking for one I wanted in stock knowing it would be easier to close on a vehicle they wanted to move today. (Never did find an in-stock, quicksand, manual transmission Off-road without the Premium package).
• If I found one I wanted (Or in my case accepted the fact I would have to order one). Key seemed to be when I told them I was willing to put cash down this weekend.
• I am always nice and polite. I just can't go nuclear, back and forth, pitting dealers against each other. Maybe there is a little $ to be saved but I just can't.
• The true-car/Costco process probably gets you decent to good no-hassle deal on an average/common model that is in-stock (Not so much on a super hot model, special orders or a rare configuration that no one has in stock.)
• Local dealer after a few more e-mails and texts came down to a good but not great rate. Again, from my sales experience they do not want to simply be used as leverage and want to actually have a shot at a sale.
• I emailed separately 4 other dealers in the region where I could find an internet sales mangers name or at least an internet sales e-mail address. The ones with just a "Fill our this box and hit send for more information or pricing" did not yield positive results. Some people just send a (Separate) cut and paste email to every single dealer they can find within [x] miles
• With recommendation from a member here I contacted the Internet Sales Manger from a smaller dealer ~150 miles away and we sealed the deal.

Best of luck to you, let us know how it works out.

 

One more thing, I think all negotiable sales have some wiggle room and the Sales/Account Managers make decisions every day to meet their current Key Performance Initiatives (KPIs). There are always multiple and shifting KPIs (qty of sales, Gross revenue, premium products, add-ons, market share, "Dumping" excess/old inventory cheap to keep total volumes acceptable while focusing on high margin premium products. Not to mention the financing angle or pressures/incentives from global HQ etc.) The KPIs combined are what they measure success by. Not everyone can get the absolute lowest rate, best service, allocation of most desirable products.

Dicks do not get the best deal, nice/good customers who build a relationship and who could be potential repeat customers and produce referrals do.

 

As a sales guy I would hate the mass email, but I as a purchaser, I am not doing to please them.

I told my sales guy, "My job is to keep as much of my money as I can, and your job is to get as much of my money for the dealership as he can. Game on" He laughed, but has understood its not personal, its my money, I work hard for it, and they are going to have to work hard to get it from me.

 

No Dicks walk out when they don't get teh price they want, and two days later get the call from the dealer because they might lose the sale to another dealership.

I had already set up a potential deal with my sales guy, the lowest possible we will do. Next day did some online thing that contacted dealers in so many miles, including my dealer. Got a call alter that day, with another price drop.

 

TRD OR DCSB 4X4 2017 with tonneau, towing, premium entune. comes with "lifetime" powertrain warranty.

$36,975 out the door

 

Do you know what the breakdown was?

 

I'm looking at a 2017 SR5 Double Cab V6 2wd with Tow Pkg.
They said they'd throw in a Lifetime Powertrain Warranty.
$30,000 out the door.
I'm thinking I may bite...
May ask them to deliver the truck to another dealer local to me (both are Hendrick group)
Any thoughts?

 

Hi everyone!
I'm considering purchasing a 2016 TRD Sport V6 4x4 with Access Cab

Here are the specs:

OPTIONS: Carpet Floor Mats w/ Door Sills, Premium & Technology Package, and Tow Package
MSRP: $36,629.00
Invoice:$34,225.00 (according to Edmunds, and not including advertising fee which is $559 according to dealer paperwork - TRA they call it)

If I take away 2% for holdback (I have no idea what the holdback actually is, just guessing here) the actual dealer cost would then be $33,540.50

Right now I have negotiated over the internet a price of $34,500.00, which is about a 2.8% profit for them. I'm hoping when I show up in person I can have them knock off a little more. They will still add on their document fee, and I have to pay sales tax, and registrations fees. Will try to negotiate the doc fee down a little, I think it is around $300-400$.

What is everybody's opinion on all of this, since it is a 2016 model and not 2017, is this a good/fair price? Does anyone know what the holdback would actually be? I'm totally comfortable with giving them a 3% profit, but since I don't really know the true dealer cost it's hard to know for sure.

Any thoughts/opinions would be awesome!

 

• That sucks, What state are you in? I'm guessing that # is locked in by their region like another level of BS Dealer/document/processing fee.
• Search the web real good. Maybe your Toyota Region has their own incentives or cash award deals (Paid for by everyones $599) Here in Virginia (Mid-Atlantic) www.buyatoyota.com has all kinds of things and last 2 times, if I didn't point them out first I'm not sure I the dealer would have offered them.
• 2016 model: there has to be some pretty good discounting available

My $0.02:

• Go to page-1 here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-tacoma-model-package-option-costs-master-list.388345/ Invoice is your starting point for negotiations. The Dealer still makes money via "Holdbacks", incentives, financing and they get a piece of the $940 freight and destination fee.
• Set up an appointment, let them know you are serious and ready to buy today if you can come to agreeable terms.
• I am sure they are ready to get a 2016 off the books. Check to see if there is a dated inspection sticker on it or in the glove box, that will give you a solid idea of how longs its been there.
• When you sit down, bring a folder with all your notes, price comparisons, break-down of invoice vs MSPR prices etc.
• Have a couple hundred bucks and a blank check paper clipped to the inside of your folder, don't flaunt, but let him see it.
• The "doc fee" or whatever they call it, is pure profit. That "Doc fee" # is however set in stone and pre-printed on all their documents. Find out ahead of time what it is, just do backwards math and work around it. If your ok with $34.5, negotiate to $34.2 or whatever compensates for their BS fee.

Best of luck, let us know how it works out.

 

Thanks so much for the tips and links Speedbird, much appreciated. I am located in NJ. Right now the only offers available are a military or college grad rebate - neither of which I qualify for. I've been trying to negotiate over e-mail but haven't had much success yet with that yet. I may need to go down there and negotiate hard and get all of my stuff together. Thanks again!

 

thanks for the info Speedbird. Funny that you've got a vw tdi. Hopefully the judge accepts the buyback deal next Tuesday and I can return our TDI Golf for cash to apply against a 2017 TRD Off-Road crew cab 4x4. To this end I've been using AutoTrader to find lowest prices and then will take with me to local dealer to see if they can come close. Anyone had any experience w/pricing from dealers on AutoTrader being accurate?

 

This is solid advice. An easy way to do it too is to just go in a little lower than you know they will accept and add in the fee. So if their fee is $200 and you are okay with $34.5 offer $33,000 + $200 = $33,200. Then the doc fee is in your end price and you don't have to worry about it any more and can negotiate from there and negotiate closer to the $34.5.

When I was negotiating for mine I literally wrote first offer a little low, but not so low it was insulting, and added the fee and circled the total amount. Then from there our negotiations included the fee in the price.

I found it helpful to just go in person to the dealership and start talking with them. By that point I had done so much research I knew more than the one salesman I first talked to and he knew I was sure I knew what I was looking for. Not in an arrogant way or anything, I just knew the exact codes for the truck I was looking for and had him look up in his system his offer of what they could do and then negotiated from there.

I then actually went to test drive an older Tacoma and that salesman tried to sell it to me but it was priced too high for the options/year and I was upfront with him about it. He asked me if we could make a deal on a new truck and if we agreed on a price if I would put down a deposit. They asked me for the offer from the other dealership and then we negotiated from there. I ended up saving over $1,600 more on this deal. That being said, some have luck with the emails alone as well so I guess it comes down to finding what works.

Using AutoTrader for the lowest price on the Golf or the Tacoma? Regardless, the AutoTrader, Cars.com, etc. pricing is always inflated. Some also flip the other way and include ALL available discounts, regardless if you will be approved for them or not, to try to entice you to come in.

For the Tacoma I would go off of the thread on here that lists the true invoice and aim for negotiating for around that price. But understand that few get the truck for exactly invoice or lower. Most pay slightly above whether that be $500 or more.

 

.
Just looked at my invoice (at tag office getting tag new sticker).

$27,744.00 OTD with all dealer fees and I am tax exempt (this includes $599.00 dealer fee BS)

2016 SR5 .. AC/LB .. V6 .. auto .. tow .. some appearance package .. clear 3M Bra, fenders and mirrors (took all that stuff off) .. upgraded audio .. front door window's tint .. clear door edge guards .. lifetime warranty BS .. and few other options I can't remember.

Got about $2,900.00 off list ... good, but not a great deal.

I added an OEM bed mat .. UnderCover SE .. F&R WeatherTechs .. & double seat covers for about another $1,000.00 total.

 

hey guys im new to the truck world and i was looking into buying a TRD OR DCSB..and i was quoted 37000 out the door. I am guessing that is way to much or sounds about right? sorry if this is the wrong thread.

 

Depends on the details

 

@bcrobbin the only thing coming on there is just the tow package

 

Hello. It's easier to give feedback if you can give us a $ for the negotiated price of the truck including all of the accessories, freight, dealer fees or any other BS. Then taxes if you wish, but the tax # is irrelevant for comparison sake, won't be able to negotiate that and a lot of variance from state to state.

Also, make sure you look at the #s on page-1

Seems like recently if you are patient and shop around you can close on invoice plus $4-800 including dealers fees.