Tacoma ADD Delete Wiring Figured Out

Like DesertRat said, yes. If you are going to run a non-disconnect front axle like mine, and have an FJ case, you don't need the 4x4 ECU. Throw the lever and go. Just make sure to be stopped AND in neutral when shifting to/from 4LO. The 4x4 ECU is for safely actuating the electric diff and transfer case actuators.

An indicator light is definitely a must. Don't want to accidentally cut a sharp corner in 4HI or 4LO on pavement. That's how CVs get blown. I would also read up on other 2wd to 4x4 swaps to see what they did. They might indicate that the harness is actually under the dash somewhere. You might be able to use the dash lights with a little effort. For instance, I have the harness for traction control in mine but don't actually have it optioned.

 

How did you modify the ADD diff to stay engaged OP?

 

The guy gave me the full FJ wiring harness, so hopefully if mine is missing something I can easily splice it in.

But if I understand right, getting AWD FJ front, or just biting the bullet and going strait axle is the simplest way to go, Vs using 4WD FJ or Tacoma front?

 

Disregard, I found the answer in your threads. Is there any particular front diff assemblies to look for if I was after the non-add diff from a manual transmission FJ? Im leaning towards manual hub conversion with the non-add FJ diff.

 

You can just rig the ADD into the locked position. The AWD mod is NOT necessary, it's just cleaner. I did it because one solid axle shaft is stronger than two that are connected with a collar.

The AWD or "Full Time 4wd" front diff assembly is what you are after. No other car came with the non-ADD front (that i'm aware of). Is there a reason you are looking at the manual hubs? I found no reason to need to unlock the front.

 

The 6-speed manual J120 (and possibly J150) Land Cruiser Prado sold in non-USA markets came with this AWD non-ADD set-up, but that's only to file away in the Toyota Nerd part of your brain.

 

I got the info from this RST article for FJ case for a V8 4runner

https://www.rocksolidtoys.com/single-post/2017/08/19/4RUNNER-FJ-T-CASE-SWAP

" When you leave the stock front diff in, it now cause's the front differential to spin which in turn spins the front drive shaft which spins the chain inside the transfer case. Not only does this cause premature wear and tear on a t case that was not designed to spin all the time, it cause's pressure inside the case which cause's oil to come up and out of the shifter handles at the top. Even when you have the breathers on the case, which you should always have anyway, it's not enough to over come all the oil being pushed up to the path of least resistance. Through the shifters. The stock case does not have these manual shifters and is a pretty good sealed case until the rear actuator seals start to fail. Then you see the leaks. "

v8 awd 4runner diff = awd FJ diff? I think so, thus my logic. Thoughts?

 

If I read his article correct, the front diffs are all the same, less the ADD and non-ADD sub-assemblies.

While i do respect RockSolidToys, they do go a bit overboard with the "you MUST disconnect the front driveshaft" attitude. I don't believe in "not designed to spin all the time". It's a mechanical piece of hardware that is engineered to work well. It's not an electrical component with a duty cycle. Toyota nearly demands that you engage 4x4 at least once a month in the owners manual. Prime example is shortly after I did my ADD delete, my front driveshaft seal did start leaking. While that is a coincidence, the truck was 9 years old at that point, and there was probably 5-6 years where 4x4 was NEVER engaged. Not using a seal like that does not promote lubrication and the seal will dried out, the extra usage is what cracked it.

Premature wear in a well maintained system is virtually non existent. Most issues with wear are due to neglect and abuse. There was a million mile Tundra a year or two ago. Owner did all his oil changes and services and Toyota scored the engine teardown a 99/100 with over one million miles on it.

If you are concerned about "pressure build up" inside the case, causing leaks out of the shifter, add a proper breather to it, somewhere up high like a diff breather.

Take what I said with a grain of salt, but like all moving parts, things can and will break under the right circumstance. Proper maintenance will prolong when the breakage happens.

 

In the end of the day RST's stance allows them to sell an extra product. I just dont know enough to be confident in spinning the front driveshaft all the time. You make a good argument and i'm definitely on the fence about it. Risk transfer case leaks or be burdened with custom hubs, bearings, cv shafts. How many miles are on this replaced front driveshaft seal?

 

I have about 15k on it. And i've done numerous extended freeway trips in high temp situations.

 

I'm at 10k miles on a AWD FJ front differential tube, with FJ part time transfer case. No leaks out of shifter, differential, axle seals, etc. Don't let that article scare you, the truck is engineered to be in 4wd or AWD for thousands of miles. The only thing that will cause a seal leak is time, which will happen whether you are spinning the driveshaft or not.

 

Dont forget to take into account, the tens of thousands (possibly hundreds of thousands) of trucks that have NEVER leaked at the front diff or t-case.

 

Hey everyone, my Tacoma (2016 TRD OR 4x4) has an FJ Cruiser Transfer case swap, and the FJ Cruiser front ADD Delete. I have had a 2wd-4wd error code on my dash for about 6 months now and haven't been able to use my locker for over a year. Does anyone have any idea of how to get rid of the 2wd-4wd error code? Is there any way of tricking my truck into thinking it is a TRD OR 4x2? Swapping an ECU? Thanks for any help!

 

you need to do the “locker anytime” mod

 

Thanks for your help,
I thought the same thing... but will the mod work without the original transfer case and front diff actuator present? Has anyone done this already?

 

Yes. Works fine on my truck, 2010 trd off-road

 

Awesome thanks for your help!
Could you refer me to the thread you used to perform the mod? I have seen this mod mentioned several times but not sure where it is...

 

not sure there is a thread or not, this is what I used years ago, marry the wire colors up with the write up and you’ll be good to go

 

great topic

 

Thank you!