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Tacoma Frame Repair

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by chernobyl1, Feb 28, 2016.

  1. Mar 23, 2016 at 7:38 PM
    #21
    chernobyl1

    chernobyl1 [OP] Member

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    Christian
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    2000 Tacoma Xtra cab PreRunner
    Stock
    Thanks! I'm just reading through this now. I think this guy is more man than I to rebuild a frame that wasn't just rusty, but also bent/cracked. It looks like the results speak for themselves though! I'm starting with a body that's in good shape and a frame that looks to be in better shape, so I'm thinking I won't have to do near as much :fingerscrossed:

    I got the bed off last night with the help of a friend and some freeze-off, here's some initial pics, I'm going to drop the gas tank and bring it outside on saturday to powerspray off scale/rust on the frame and get it ready for repair and painting

    IMG_20160320_205803.jpg
    IMG_20160320_205813.jpg
     
  2. Mar 23, 2016 at 7:44 PM
    #22
    chernobyl1

    chernobyl1 [OP] Member

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    Stock
    Thanks for looking at my thread and responding! You're an inspiration!

    I agree part of the process is going to include getting inside the frame as much as I can and make sure to do some type of rust prevention on the inside as well. What I'm thinking is using the Saf-T-Cap product from Autorust.com to weld in the portion on the rear hangers that is the worst hit and then use 1/8" plate on the rest. The Saf-T-Cap product is a bit expensive, but I feel that since its a solid piece, I'll feel most confident that it will hold with my amateur welding rather than piece it together.

    I'll definitely be drilling holes in the bottom for future draining as well. For the portions of the frame that are still solid, but rusty, I'm going to hit them with Mar-Hyde and then some type of sealer on top. Any opinions on what's best? I most likely will be driving this truck very rarely in the winters, but it could happen from time-to-time for the hard to resist snow-drifting :)
     
  3. Mar 23, 2016 at 8:07 PM
    #23
    ClevSix

    ClevSix Well-Known Member

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    IL/IA
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    Suspension, 33s, some armor... Rust, Gray wire and 2Low, and more. T4r is stock.
    His build thread the one I posted earlier. @gray223 did some really impressive work.
     
  4. Mar 23, 2016 at 8:15 PM
    #24
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    big bear lake, CA / lake havasu, AZ
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    Did not notice you had already posted a link.
     
    ClevSix[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Mar 24, 2016 at 1:24 AM
    #25
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Super Springs
    I can only say this really should not be your first experience at welding!!

    In any case good luck
     
  6. Mar 24, 2016 at 1:53 AM
    #26
    MicComa

    MicComa Well-Known Member

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    ADK MTNS, NY
    Hey OP sorry for you situation your in. Does MI have a safety inspection like NY ? We have a year one here and that would never pass !! Also whoever did inspect it if your state requires it could be in huge trouble for passing it. Did you ever contact the dealer you bought it from ? If so what did they say ? It's alot of work, time, and some money but when you get it done I am sure you will love it and enjoy it for along time. Even after repaired if you drive it in the winter try to get to a carwash with underwash system. Glad there was some great advice from some great guys here and try to keep in mind not everyone on here is an asshole like some on here. It always gets me that some of the dbags will come on here and tell you how wrong you were but offer no advice to help. It must be amazing being so perfect as them and to have never made a wrong choice in life. Good luck man and have some fun doing the repair and learning a new skill.
     
    FirstGen Jer and chernobyl1[OP] like this.
  7. Mar 24, 2016 at 9:18 AM
    #27
    gray223

    gray223 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I didn't do anything on the inside. I figured with the new plates all along the outside, the truck will sray together far longer then I will have it.

    I used chassis saver. The stuff is really tuff! When it's dry you can beat on the stuff with a hammer and it's not going to chip or nothing. As long as it's applied correctly and everything. Your frame looks alot cleaner then mine for the most part. Also you can try to blow out all the pieces and dirt in the frame rails. I had a whole pile of crap that was just setting in the frame!
     

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