Tacoma J-arm kit & swingset steering

As I stated already. Engine cage is by far the most ideal. However, hoops with a cross tube are an option for 12’s as well. Chances are, anybody willing to buy the kit as at the point of or close to a cage anyways. And if they aren’t, they should be. As far as locking hubs go, sure it could be an option. But locking hubs aren’t very strong and drive hubs are much better.

 

I feel there is this fine line when it comes to bolt on kits and the necessity for a cage. Something like I am talking about here, pushes you across that line. Not only should it be a consideration for safety, but it should be a consideration for strength. These frames aren’t made of anything special. If you’re gonna be hammering on your truck, do yourself a favor and cage it.

That being said, I am looking into the possibility of producing an engine cage as well.

I honestly have so many ideas rolling right now and I’m just trying to focus on one thing. If enough people are on board wanting to run 12” shocks, an engine cage can happen.

 

Solo kit is D44 with 10” C&BP
Then it’s recommended to add a blitzkreig locking ring on the snout


They recommend not using their kit without a full engine cage
So I’d assume anyone going full J arm should expect a level of supporting fabrication

 

10” shocks and a nice tower / engine hoop would be good for a multipurpose rig.

Adding things like swing steer, big shocks, and big travel numbers would be a strange compromise to stick with 10” stroke since you would of course be having big travel numbers and the same or a bigger shock setup in the rear which wouldn’t be well suited with that setup in front.

Lots of mid sized trucks will use a cantilevered booster, manual, or hydro assist brake setup when stepping it up to 12” shocks on an a-arm or 16” shocks on a beam platform.

 

In my honest and personal opinion, I think factory hubs are the way to go. I’m not sure what everyone’s experience is, but I’m 3 going on 4 years deep on 37’s on a pair of timkens. Changing to D44 now forces a brake kit etc. it opens a whole new worm hole of expensive. And I’m really not sure for what.

 

Not sure why you say the brake kit - we run factory brakes with Dana hubs just machined down to run the rotors.

I would agree with the factory hubs. Custom axles kind of are sketchy except for the case of buying $4k+ for a spare set or at least one spare unless best case scenario you rebuild on on the trail and don’t get any random damage to the shaft. Planning on buying a $1200 spare since I’m in that boat myself. At least with one side factory you can keep things relatively easy to have backup parts or make a cheap limp-home spare with an extended shaft from like a BTF kit that won’t allow the full travel.

 

I guess the reason I say it is because by the time you put the energy into machining a hub to fit your factory brakes how far are you from a new brake kit. I don’t want to turn this into a 30k$ endeavor for a front kit. Really not what I want to do. And that’s a big benefit to the factory hubs. Which have proven to be tough for I feel like the majority of us.

 

All good. Was spit balling thoughts.
I'm also waiting to see when TE Designs releases their cage kit

 

Cages are a must. Massive safety and performance.

 

This thread has progressed quite a bit in less than 3 pages.

 

There’s a world of difference between a tube frame and a factory frame with a cage on it.

 

Very interested to see how this goes and what you come up with. I think having the option or looking at a brake upgrade for bigger calipers wouldn't be a bad idea seeing as this setup you want to build will inevitably mean you push the truck harder and faster.

 

My plan for my truck was to run Dana 60 unit bearing hubs converted to 6x5.5. definitely strong enough, and gives the option for manual hubs or direct drive. Also they are around 2.125" deep, so won't add substantially to scrub radius. Plus easy to replace and get parts for asides from the redrilled hub

https://trail-gear.com/axles/hubs-spindles/dana-60-unit-hub.html

 

only downside is that the center bore is 4.25 not the factory 106.1mm. not a big deal but something to think about as well.

 

You could just use these and ask them to leave out the brakes - I have the rear axle set on my truck.

https://solidaxle.com/products/6-on-5-5-front-end-kit-for-d60

 

The diagram for these machined hubs says 104.5mm, which would be totally fine

 

Subbed for J-arm travel and geometry.

 

oh....no idea where i got the 4.25 from than...lol

 

I just feel like forcing a brake upgrade will be a turn off for many. I can’t see braking getting any better than the powerbrake x-line kit either. So keeping it factory compatible just makes sense.