Tacoma Lift FAQ/Guide - READ THIS

Ok I have question and i hope this is the correct area to post it, I know there are alot of "will this work?" suspension questions but i just want someone to double check me on what i believe i will need.

I plan on going with the OME lift kit 885's in the front with the 1 1/2" add a leaf for the rear because i already have the 4 leaf stock.

I dont want any spacers for on top of the lift but i do need the trim packer for driverside to fix tacolean right?

Also im gonna skip on the diff drop because it does more bad then good from what ive read?

Are there any drops that i would definately need?

The 885s would give me 2-2.5" correct?

I plan on going with 255/75/17 bfg km mud terrains for the tires. Could these fit on stock rims with some trimming? If not im going to get the konig 6 shooters because they have 4.5" of backspace.

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.. I am really still up in the air on the 884 vs 885

 

Yeah I've compared the OME, toytec and now Icon. I do want a very smooth ride on and off pavement and people are saying icons ride really well, I am willing to spend the extra if that is the case.

In theory, the rebuildable shocks will offset costs down the road because I won't have to buy new shocks.

 

Really like my Icon Stage 3 but finding now with the CBI bumper/Swing gate and other accessories I am down to 1" lift in the back when full loaded out (haven't even put on the roof top tent yet). Still like all the Icon items (especially the UCAs) up front but probably will get rid of the Icon add-a-leafs in back and switch to AllProOffroad standard or expedition springs (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/11282-tacoma-lift-faq-guide-read.html) to maintain a probable 2-3" lift in the back when fully loaded out. Kind of difficult to determine what to do because I prefer to remove a bunch of the gear when not using it.

 

You may want to consider Dakars for the rear then.

 

OK so I'm in the process of getting every thing together already have bilstien 5100s Fox 3 inch rear. AAL drop carier bearing skid plate and diff drop sway bar drop brackets I know I need brake line extensions OK here's the question can I put a 2 inch leveling spacer and set the bilstiens to 1.75 or will this cause camber issues I know the bilies have only one inch down travel maxed out so i want to get up with them set low. What ucas would you recommend and do you think it's a bad idea to combine please email me at rruhl58@gmail.com I get to many notifications to keep track. Also going Cooper atp l re. 265 75 16. Staying stock rims for the moment do I need 1 inch spacers Thank you for your help guys. I'm at a stand still on this project

 

Definitely the 885's, you will get 2"-2.5" in the front depending on how much added weight you have. I just did this same thing a couple weeks ago and love it. Install wasnt that hard, did it in my driveway took about 3 hours for the AAL and 885's.

Get the 1/4" spacer or trim packer to fix/prevent the lean now so you don't have to take it apart again.

with the lift you should clear those tires and I don't know about diff drop as I'm a prerunner

 

I have the all-pro expedition leafsprings on mine, had to get Bilstein 5100s for a 3 to 4 inch lift in the rear cause with nothing in the bed it sits at 4"s and I pulled apart the ones I had on there that were stock height. I have pics on here of all the crap that leaked out.
But they are a stiffer ride and it took about 615lbs in the bed to get them to droop down to 3".
I don't keep a lot of weight in my bed all the time so my back end is 4" almost all the time.
Working on the front end now, have to save up for what I want. That's why my truck has the lean it does.

 

Talked to Icon and they said put my overload leafs back on as a first option so I will take that step first. Took a look at the All Pro Offroading leafs that give a full 3" lift and they have a standard one and a expedition one so I might consider going with one of those if the overload leaf doesn't work out. Considered the Dakars also.

 

So no opinion on the 2 inch leveling kit blocks on top of the bilstien 5100 s. Set to 1.75 will I need to swap out the ucas at 3.75? Thanks guys

 

If your AC is 4x4 I wouldn't exceed 3" of lift. I also wouldn't stack a 2" spacer on top of a 5100 set at anything other than 0, but really not advisable at all because the 5100 will net you damned near 3" by itself while retaining proper articulation of the spindle. So, bad idea.

 

Dang i wish i would have known this before I did my leveling lift last month. I'm about to tear apart drivers side again and put in the 1/4" spacer. It's not too bad and most people probably don't even notice it, but it bugs me because i know its 1/2" lower.

 

Thank you for the response. I never installed it but i got the 885s and the aal and trim packer every thing worked out great! and i cleared 285/70/17s.

 

I know this is the lift thread but i posted in the home alignment and havent gotten a response so i figured there would be some knowledge in here. Any advice would be appreciated.. Here is a picture from the service manual i believe and im just trying to make sure i understand it. Im looking to make some changes when i install my lr uca's.



On the adjustment for the cam washers if I were wanting to maximize caster before I install my lr uca's. To do this I would rotate the washers on the front end of the truck with the marks towards the center of the truck and the bolt would be towards the outside? And on the rearward facing washers I would wAnt full positive by having the same as the front to where the bolt is closest to the wheels and the center mark is facing toward the center of the vehicle?

 

Question, on the front coil-over springs there are a couple paint marks. Are those marks supposed to be towards the front of the truck or the rear? I leveled my 2013 and didnt even really think about it when putting back together, but i just read something saying they should be facing outward. Well mine would be outward toward the front or outward towards the rear. I have them both toward the front right now. I think i have them correct but want to make sure. Thank you!

 

Update for anyone who might read through this thread as a newb. I ended up doing the install myself. Wasnt too hard I made sure to read instructions and writeups multiple times before starting. Think it was about 3.5 hours for the rear aal/shocks and about 5 hours for the front COs and UCAs.

 

Still trying to figure out if I can set the bilstiens to there lowest setting use two inch spacers on top of them or does this sound dumb to you guys really want to avoid maxing them out also looking at break lines do I need the ones with vsc for a 2007 sr5 can't find extensions except on eBay thanks guys

 

You have to set the upper BJ to "E" first, and then dick with the settings on the lower UCA to bring the numbers within spec. BJ Moose did an excellent write up on it. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158795

Right on brother! Feels better when you did it yourself.

It's fucking dumb, as I already explained.

Look up OCTacos thread on extended brake lines, he sells all four for $103 shipped.

 

Yeah I've already read that thread. My question isn't what to set the uca at. My question was how to adjust the eccentric cAms on the bottom. Thanks for your response though.

 

Sorry I couldn't help. I set the uppers to E and let the alignment shop do its magic

 

Thank you jimbo should I just set them to 1.75. And with that setup def change out the brake lines. Do you think the dif drop and skid plate are really needed at 1.75? Thanks