Tacoma Lift FAQ/Guide - READ THIS

Does anyone know about the ToyTec coilover? I already have 5100's and just noticed that they sell the adj coil over with spring and collar made for the 5100's. Are these any good? Look like pretty good quality but i don't know for sure. Are they easily adjustable? I imagine that i would set the 5100's at 0 and just use the collar on the coilover (1-3")? Thanks for your help.

 

I got the toytec ULK with rear ASL and LR UCA, I upgraded to their Boss system as it was touted as closer to factory ride quality. It's been on for a month and finally starting to break in as the ride was quite stiff for awhile but it's awesome so far! I'm at about 2.75" , my only complaint is that at highway speeds if I hit a bump that crosses both driver and passenger tires such as the concrete edge of a bridge where asphalt meets concrete, I catch a bit of air. Guess I have to just slow down. It's less prominent now that it's broken in and in love how it handles otherwise, off road it's a beast with 17x9, LT285-70-17 toyo O/C A/T 2.

 

*rear AAL not ASL

 

Thanks for the info!
I have 4" Maxtracs on my truck now with the 5100's set @ 1.75. In rear I have 2" block and 1.5" aal. I would like these (or some) adj coil overs because I want to be able to raise the front a half inch or so when i put my Hybrid bumper on in the next couple months. Just dont know if the 5100's have to be at 0 or if i can leave at 1.75(or .85) and still adjust 1-3".

 

I was looking at some different forums and other sites and what not about lifts and diff drops. I've heard stuff saying from anything over 3" of lift the diff has to be dropped and then I see posts that say if you lift 1.5" you should drop the diff. Anyway, to my question. I have a 2014 SR5 and I'm looking to go with 2.5"-3" of lift and I don't have money to drop my diff, will my u-joints wear so quickly that it will cause a problem in the next 4-6 years?

P.S. This is my daily for the next 5+ years, maybe a mud hole or a trail here and there but other than that just driving to and from school/work

 

Dont do the diff drop. Your U joints are unrelated to the front diff.

 

@ khaos hey whats good bro i have a question, as i am new to as well to the truck industry i only know a few things but i was wondering if you can find out some info about heavy metal lifts i did some research on them but i feel like its bogus... so if u can help me out that be great. im looking for a 3 inch front and rear lift kit for my 13 toyota.

 

Thanks for the good read, all. New to the forum and come with a question:

Relevant Background:
2003 Tacoma, some extra weigh in the back (shell, carpet kit, tools, bike racks, camping gear, etc)
I have the ToyTec Ultimate Lift...
- Bilstein 5100 front and rear
- Front coils set to about 2" lift
- AAL did not handle the load as well as we hoped (perhaps due to fatigued factory leafs)
In process of swapping to OME Dakar leaf packs...

Problem:
The shop doing the install has found that with the new leaf-pack installed to the frame and the axle (but still up on the service lift) the Bilstien 5100s that are spec'd with the kit are not long enough to reach the lower mount. Quick answer is to put the truck on the ground to load the leaf-pack and bolt-up the shock. But...

Mechanic voiced concerns that taking such approach:
1. it means the shock must now limit down,
2. that the shock is not meant for that purpose, and
3. it may result in addition forces on the shock and shock-mounts.
4. (apparently on stock vehicle the leaf spring is the limiter not the shock)

Question:
Has anyone else dealt with this situation?
Did you fix it?
How ... longer shock (has other problems) / travel limiting strap?

Thanks for the help.

 

Also wanted to reply to the questions I saw asking how folks liked the ToyTec Lifts. On my 2003, I've had the "ultimate" kit for about a year. Other than the AAL (and above question), I've been pretty happy with it. Seems to handle well on tarmac and forest roads. It's within alignment setting with factory UCA's (I've set it to only about 2" lift)

It settled a little bit after install, but not much. After a year, I was able to adjust the spring-preload locknuts with the spanners provided. Nuts turned fairly easy, and found it took about 7/8 mm adjustment at the shock to generate 10mm change at the wheel.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks DoorDing. I'll give ToyTec another call in the AM. In your search, have you found a good site to find specs on the extended/compressed lengths of the various Bilstein 5100 sub-models. Thinking I might compare that with the specs on the shocks OME pairs with their Dakar leafs.

 

So I've read most of this thread (and a few others) and wow. What a wealth of information. Most (OK, some) of it is even starting to make sense to me .

I'm not a mechanic, but do enjoy wrenching on things some, and have done suspension work on both of my bikes at this point, so understand most of the concepts. Now it's application and specific parts that I need help with.

Just bought a double cab 4x4 Long Bed about a month ago. It has somewhere under 1k miles on it. My previous truck was an 02 F250 with a a factory lift (no idea what, never cared). I actually enjoyed the "harshness" of the F250 suspension. Right now the Tacoma is feeling a bit "squishy" to me (and I haven't hauled anything with it yet). I will end up with some sort of truck / tool box and requisite junk that I feel I need to have with me at all times (I can't tell you why, but it is necessary).

Budget is limited, at least somewhat. It's more a problem of not being able to spend a lot at any one time than anything (of course I want to limit what I spend in total as well). I can get away with a couple hundred dollars this month. A couple hundred more in a couple months without raising too much of a concern with wifey, so need to make sure I'm getting the best bang for the buck, but order and timing is important as well.

What I'm looking for is more "feedback" than lift. I don't want to build a monster truck. I don't want to do any sort of differential offsets, no drive shaft lengthening, none of that stuff. Slightly bigger rubber, OK, when these tires wear out, but not necessary "right now", but I do want to get rid of the "squishyness".

What I'm currently thinking...
Order 1:
Deaver Add-a-leaf 2.0 from http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/aals-blocks-ubolts-shims-tacoma-05-6-lug.html (3rd item down right now, they don't seem to have a dedicated page for it).
Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks from http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/rear-shocks-tacoma-05-6-lug.html (7th item down...)
The leaf seems to come with a new center pin, but not u bolts. I understand I should replace the u bolts anyway, correct? Anything else missing to do the rear end?
Can I do the rear end first (without it looking exceedingly stoopid and without breaking anything) and leave it for ~2 months while saving pennies for the front?

Order 2:
OME 885s (6s?) from http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/struts-and-coils-tacoma-05-6-lug.html (first on the page)
Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Front Struts (same link as above, 4th on the page) set a 0 with '5s or '6s.
Onlything that it seems I'm missing from the kit is the 1/4" top spacer (which I couldn't find, so would probably have to call). Do I need anything else?

I know there is a kit at http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/headstrong-kits-tacoma-05-6-lug.html that is similar to what I have, but can't pull of $600 at once. I'll probably pay more doing it in pieces, but I have to deal with that.

Am I anywhere near the right track?

 

Jason- it sounds like you're generally on a good track. A couple things I learned the hard way:
1. expect to have additional costs crop-up (ex: various bolts rusted/seized means cutting the off an installing new ones, also expect to need an alignment each time you make changes)
2. adding any lift slightly changes the dimensions/geometries of a few members, so expect to have some additional item that needs replaceing to accommodate. for my 2" lift that meant axle shins to fix the pinion angle to cure drive line vibration
3. Add-a-leafs enhance the leaf springs. If your leaf springs are shot (like mine were) the Add-a-leafs add lift but do not better handle load .. maybe worse.
4. It's a bit of extra cash, no-doubt, but I've found the ToyTec coilover's adjustability to be nice in tuning the truck and setting up a proper right-left height.

just my $.03

 

Thanks for the feedback Scott.

Great point on the alignment each time. I hadn't thought of that... Hmmmm.

On the axle shims... Are they one of those "just try it and if it vibrates, then you need them" sort of things? Is there any way to know "up front" if they are needed? I *assumed* that since they didn't come with most of the "short lift" kits they likely aren't needed for "short lift" application. I could be completely wrong on that. Won't be the last time.

Again, thanks.

 

I'm new and hopefully someone can give me a starting point. About a month ago I smacked up my 07 Taco, double cab, short box, 4 x 4 with a lear fiberglass topper. . I hit a deer and took out the front clip. We are rebuilding. My question, I just bought a set of new leaf springs ,4 pack heavy duty from general springs. Spring will give me about a 1 1/2 " raise in the rear. I also bought a set of bilstein 5100 shocks. Front adjustable, rear non of coarse. What setting should I start with on the front ? Keep in mind the fib topper adds some weight to the rear. No junk hanging on the front end. I'd like the taco to sit level to slightly lower in the front . I'll use stock size tires, 265/ 65/ 17 on a 8 " rim ) off set. Will my tires rub the inner fender well on a tight turn ? Thanks

 

http://www.oldmanemu.com.au/old-man-emu-suspension-selector/

OME will give you its recomendation for a lift kit.

 

So looking into suspension. Everything about the parts and what to get are starting to make sense. Looking into a 3" lift and wanting it to be leveled (or preferred level not sure what it is...) and so thinking about getting:

OME 884 standard/light load front lift coil springs
Toytec 2” lift rear Add-A-Leafs

Any help much appreciated!

 

you need shocks too: ome or 5100s

 

Spend the money, get the icon stage 2 -3.5/4" it'll give you the best ride and all around performance. I got toytech ULK with UCA and enjoy it but set at 2&3/4" my down travel isn't enough and on pavement it rides like a tank!

 

Or will stock ubolts work?

 

You will need longer u-bolts