Tacoma lift question

Hey Tacoma world enthusiasts, I've got a quick question for everyone. I just bought my 5100/ 885 lift with an AAL in the rear from head strong off-road. I'm wondering what tire size should I go with? To answer anyone's questions yes I've searched and scowered through the forums for hours before I bought my lift.

Here are the details of my truck
2014 DCSB prerunner with Stock wheels/ tires. I was thinking about going with new rims also, I've heard of getting something with 4.5" of back spacing.

Thanks
Anthony

 

If you want to avoid rubbing, and having to cut/hammer/weld/trim your truck to fit your tires, the recommended size is 265/70/R17 or 265/70/R16, or possibly 255/75/R17s.

Do you want your tires to stick out past your fender? Some people like the look, I personally like the paint on the side of my truck and not having my tires throw everything down the side of it. Keeping your offset positive will be a good place to start if you want to keep them under the fender.

My wheels are 17x7.5 with +6 offset and running 256/70R17s and the tires are right at the edge of the flare. You can see the pics on the second page of the Baja thread link in my sig.

 

x2^^ If you want big tires but want to avoid trimming as much as possible, check out 255/80r17 aka pizza cutters. They're a true 33" and pretty narrow. I believe you can even keep your stock wheels with those. Some people don't like the look, but I personally do. Another option is 275/70r17. There are only a few tires in that size, but it's a good middle ground. My buddy has the cooper stt pro (or maxx, not sure) in that size and loves them. Check out discounttiredirect.com if you plan on ordering both wheels and tires. They'll mount, balance, and ship them to you for free. They also have great sales running all the time.

 

Be sure to avoid heavy E-load tires, I'd look at what tire you want to run and then choose your wheel from there. Example KO2s come in C-load in 265/70R17 but only in E-load in 265/75/R16. So I switched to 17" wheels to save a bunch of weight.

Also mounting balancing online isn't great as you need to swap the TPS sensors from your old wheels to the new ones, meaning you must unmount the new tires, swap the sensors and Renoir the tires.

 

Thanks everyone for all the input, I should've mentioned that I'm already planning on removing or trimming the mud flaps. I'm not a huge fan of them. I am actually a fan of the tires sticking out from the fender. I think it gives the truck a more aggressive look. Also a side note, I'm not going to be taking the truck off-road (no more than a gravel road). I've really been eyeing the nitto terra grapplers. If I were to get new wheels I'd probably go with these, http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-1979412 they look very similar to the TRD beed locks but waaaaay cheaper.

 

Not terrible in weight at 27lbs/wheel. Those will definitely stick out past the fender. Normally I would recommend a wheel 7-8" wide, wider wheels are not good for holding a bead when airing down off road, but if you are not going to take the truck off road, just check the specs on the tires you are looking at to see if they will mount to something that wide. Tirerack.com is an excellent site to check tire specs.

 

I have the Nitto's with XD Revolver wheels. Same specs as those Mickey Thompson's, 4.5 backspace and -12 offset. They stick out about an inch from fender and look great. The Nitto's have served me well in snow, haven't had them off road.

 

Couldn't sleep last night so I decided to do some tire shopping and I stumbled upon these. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Terra-Grappler-G2-285-70R17/43081882

About the cheapest I've found so far. I know some people are probably going to say that they going to rub (which they probably would off-road) but just a reminder my truck is a prerunner and will not see anything more than a gravel road. As long that I don't get any rubbing while driving on the streets I'll be happy.

 

I'm not sure because I don't run 285s, but you may still be required to go a cmc and some pinch weld hammering with normal driving. Cant say for certain.

 

Whelp took me right at 4 hours to install the lift last night, which I didn't think was too bad considering I was by myself and I didn't have any power tools. I got right at 3" of lift in the front and 2" in the rear with the aal. The angle on the upper ball joint is really bad and I'm thinking about replacing the uca's to help out with the alignment also. What is the best UCA around? I'm not against spending a little extra money for camburg/ icon. Just really want to stay away from uniball. I'll add pictures once i get the tires installed and an alignment done.

 

I just ordered Light Racing off wheelers.

What did you set you 5100s at? any top plate spacers? I was hoping 5100 at zero, 1/2" top plate spacer would net me 3" on a 4x4 DCSB.

 

285 70 will rub. I am going through this now. I have same truck in 4x4. 3 inch lift. 285 's rub in hard right hand curves. I have removed mud flaps still rub. Go with a different size tire.

 

I actually ordered this kit from head strong (great people) http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p227/Coil/Blistein_5100_Kit_(HS05BK-1).html
I didn't need the spacer on the front, both sides sit at 24" to center of hub. I'm going to have to trim the little flap on the front other than that no rub "yet"

 

Are your 5100s set at zero?

 

Yes I should've said that I got the 885 front coils and the Holstein shocks are set at 0

 

you can get duratracs in load C, in 265/75/16

 

Thanks sorry for the questions. Doing the exact lift as you but I've been told you need the .5" top plate to get a full 3".

Could saved 60 bucks lol

 

I'd wait and see if you can get it in alignment first. Could save you $500, unless you don't mind spending the money. I'd probably get them if I could afford it.

 

Hahaha! NICE! Damn iPhones and their auto correct.