Tacoma not idling after TB and MAF clean - FIXED

I started it and it ran fine, drove it about 2 miles; accelerated way better. I get to a restaurant to get my victory burrito, go back outside and now it won't idle; I can start it and run it with my foot but once I let off it dies.

01' prerunner, 2.7

I had this problem twice recently where it won't idle after on a restart after the engines been running for awhile.

 

Also, I was unable to remove the IAC due to not having a 5 star tool - why they did they use those screws!!??

I removed the IAC housing and cleaned it.

Some fluid came out of the two hoses going to the IAC - what kind of fluid is it?

 

Someone will chime in with beret advice. But your ecu needs to relearn if you haven't already disconnect negative on battery and hit your high beams then reconnect. That might fix it. Or you could have damaged your maf sensor

 

Did you spray maf directly with maf cleaner?

 

yeah, about 10'' away from it.

It started and ran fine but then would not restart.

Also, about the IAC fluid - what is it?

 

Make sure all vacuum connections are tight.

 

Try the battery and go for a spin.

Did you touch the maf sensor at all?

 

what do you mean try the battery? As I mentioned, it won't idle so I can't put it into drive..

No, I took the MAF housing off - I didn't unbolt the MAF from the housing, just removed the whole thing and gave it some sprays. Made sure to let it dry for some time.

When I started the truck after reassembling everything it started right away, idled fine and drove great. It was after I came back to start it again - after driving it about a mile, that it wouldn't start again.

they all appear to be on there pretty good.

 

I didn't do this. So I need to disconnect the negative lead and then hit the high beams switch - like the momentary or the switch that actually keeps the high beams on? And then reconnect...

 

I believe I read that you do. Okay dissconnect the ground, flip the high beam back momentary(all this does is drain all stored energy. then reconnect, take it for a spin. this MIGHT fix your problem. Do what he said check vaccum lines while you are under the hood.

 

Just pull the turn signal stalk back to the momentary position.

The idea is to put a load on the electrical system that will "dump" the charge stored in the ECU's capacitors.
You can do the same thing by leaving it disconnected for 15 minutes.

 

Also how long did you let maf dry before re inserting? may not have dried completely.

 

Meh... he drove it, the air being pulled through would have evaporated anything left.


This is odd and does make me think there's a missed vacuum line or electrical connector.
Normally after cleaning the TB, the engine idles high until the computer relearns that there's not a bunch of shit blocking the airflow around the butterfly, so it moves the butterfly back to the factory "closed" position.

Having to keep your foot on it to keep it idling is the wrong direction... and what my wife's Rav does after a battery change.

 

That is true.. forgot he was running it. (hopefully he used maf cleaner not brake cleaner). The only reason I think of vacuum lines are because it is idling rough and not high. If not im thinking maf is probably shot. ( i think he went to disconnect battery

 

so do I want to disconnect the ground or the positive to drain the capacitors?

and I should leave it disconnected, with the high beams switch on/pulled back for 15 min to help insure its completely drained?

I uses CRC MAF cleaner....

And its no idle what so ever. But again; after I reassembled everything it started like a champ, idled fine, warmed up, and drove fine.

Also, as I mentioned in the OP - I had two incidents happen prior to this where it wouldn't start (restart) after driving it for some time. I had to start it, rev it for a bit with my foot, and then it would idle again.

Thanks for all the input. The truck is parked on the other side of town so I'm gonna go see what I can do in the morning.

 

Disconnect ground!
Just hold it for a good 10 seconds. That will be suffecient.

 

if you do everything in this thread you should be okay. If this does not work i might reccomend going to a junk yard or something and finding a new maf sensor. DONT go to local auto parts store to buy one. they usually do not work.

 

So I read my MAF with my multimeter; getting at first 8M ohm now it's reading 2M ohm. I did the battery/high beams reset thing. No dice.

Would a dead MAF account for it not starting/idling at all?

 

Yes. I'm getting some whistling/ sound when I keep the engine running with my foot. I took the IAC off and cleaned it; the IAC/housing - the part that has the gasket. I reused the gasket; which was in good condition since the IAC had never been removed.

I'm wondering other sound is a vacuum issue as others have suggested.

EDit**

Also, the MAF should cause the check engine light to come on if its bad right? As I mentioned it measures around 2-3M ohms with my multimeter, which is outside what the FSM states should be its operating range.

I was talking to a family friend who is a mechanic that said the IAC does not cause the check engine light to come on if its bad though the MAF will. When I start the taco - using my foot to keep it alive, there is no check engine light on.