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Tacoma SAS Part One: Dana 44 Rebuild

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by tacoma02, Dec 30, 2013.

  1. Dec 31, 2013 at 12:48 PM
    #21
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    If your renting the Slide Hammer, get at removing the spindle bearings before returning it. Below shows the bearing within the spindle that needs to be replaced....
    IMG_0159_zps9115e977_981d7d0b47f574d928a7f62c472cfce513e01ccd.jpg

    To extract it, set the spindle on the ground (with cardboard so you dont damage the threads) with the base (side with the bearing) facing up. Sit in a chair and put the teeth of the slide hammer within the spindle just far enough to catch the underside of the bearing. Put your feet on the base of the spindle to hold it down and tap the bearing out with the slide hammer. Sorry I dont have picture of this, it required two hands.
    Note the depth of the bearing within the spindle before removing it to use as a refrence when you press a new bearing back in!

    With the bearings free you can return the slide hammer and rent a "Bearing and Seal Driver Set" (if you dont already have one of course) and pick up your new spindle bearings (Part # SBK1).
    IMG_0158_zps788ebec7_22a7f7e72ae181d5c1a88958a451c74ab7e61979.jpg
    Set the new bearing on the spindle and place the correct driver size on the bearing. After making sure the bearing isnt going in crooked, tap the bearing back, hitting the top of the driver puch with a rubber mallet.
    IMG_0157_zps4a96956d_49c75b05c23982a226c951eb746b8f1b8560fc3b.jpg
    After replacing both bearings, apply some high temperature grease within the spindle and bearings. Bag off the ends of the spindle to protect the threads and keep the inside clean while set aside.
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2013
  2. Dec 31, 2013 at 1:21 PM
    #22
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    There are more bearings within the hub assembly that should be replaced or re-packed as well. One of the bearings can be easliy extracted from the front of the hub.

    If your going to have your rotors machined (which you definitly should do so you have a smooth braking surface), make sure you do it before putting a new seal on your hub assembly! The shop had to remove my back wheel bearing seal I put on to get the hub on the lathe. So then I had to get another seal!
    IMG_0142_zps5f19b1c2_1b8d8676536c57916936cf6e987ce33094b0212f.jpg

    To remove the wheel bearing in the back of the hub assembly, you are going to have to remove the outer seal retaining it. Take a hammer and chisel and hit the edges of the seal, bending it inwards so you can pull it out.
    IMG_0143_zpse389f86d_444876dfca96d9ff7622a4c3cbef116594e16a51.jpg

    Then extract the other wheel bearing...
    IMG_0144_zps98e69188_71de587403f25edf38c7439b35c246334173484a.jpg

    Clean off all of the wheel bearings and inspect them. If they seem good, I think it's safe to say you can just re-pack them. I chose to just clean and re-pack my bearings. I used a rag and ran it across the bearing rollers along with degreaser to get rid of the old rusty grease. Once clean, I packed the bearing with new high heat grease.
    IMG_0163_zps3a66f685_2b64de16b1258df278e02aa4b93fd1dcf529a6cc.jpg

    Before putting the bearings back in, try to clean out the hub the best you can. Then cake the inside with grease.
    IMG_0162_zpse4816c41_5f4feb31c10516ae2a214b75fe3add9db35d87bf.jpg

    Then set the larger "backside" wheel bearings back into the hub (put them the correct way!) Tap the new seals (Timken Bearing Seal Part #471271) back into position using a hammer.
    IMG_0161_zpse932f8c5_b50f58030b1705fc21a8e031cdcf6624225a4e13.jpg

    The front wheel bearings can be placed back into the front of the hub; again using plastic bags and rubber bands to seal off the hub at both ends to keep it clean.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2014
  3. Dec 31, 2013 at 1:26 PM
    #23
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Should have used spindle bearing eliminator bushings rather than putting spindle bearings in again. If you actually use this thing for its intended purpose once swapped you will be replacing those...a lot.
     
  4. Dec 31, 2013 at 1:35 PM
    #24
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That sounds like a good thing to look into before I put the whole axle back together. I never heard of those before.
     
  5. Dec 31, 2013 at 1:40 PM
    #25
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Longfield and ECGS sell them. Give chase a call and he will get you squared away.
     
  6. Dec 31, 2013 at 4:33 PM
    #26
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    At this point I got a passanger side GM flat top knuckle from Ebay for $125. Before sending the knuckle back out to get machined flat, I had to remove the ball joints.

    So I picked up a 12 ton shop press from Harbor Freight for about $100 with a coupon. The ball joints were a bit scary too press out with this thing. Use some heat and PB Blaster if there are as rusty as mine were.
    Remember to remove the snap ring on the lower ball joint first. Just take a hammer and a flat head screw driver and tap it off.
    IMG_0170_zps22510cc6_00e2459898f7653f0c51de092e12332a4cefc821.jpg

    To remove the top ball joint, I used a socket to give me some extra reach....probably not the best thing to do but it worked.
    IMG_0172_zps1f2420d1_90aaa6e2d769d4311188a935cd287691a31b355e.jpg

    After pressing out the ball joints from both knuckles, I sent the flat top knuckle to WFO Concepts to be machined flat. If you purchase a steering product too then they charge you $50 for the machining service. So I purchased a Cross Over Steer Arm, 2" tall, that includes hardware and Drag Link taper for $134.99.
    http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Default.aspx

    I decided to go with cross over steering instead of the high steer set up. I just couldn't afford another flat top knuckle and steer arm. Eventually I will probably switch over to high steer but for now cross over will have to do....
     
  7. Jan 1, 2014 at 12:22 PM
    #27
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    To remove the u-joints from the axle shaft, first tap out the little snap rings using a hammer and a flat head screw driver.
    IMG_0183_zps2cf9c292_8f55023d9958c13145c191ff5ce7e71f418a9bdd.jpg
    IMG_0184_zpsc34a6740_76758583dee4071cd5cb7e498c9f48922a9ce902.jpg

    With the snap rings removed, I found that the best way to remove rusted up u-joints was to soak them with PB Blaster and set one axle shaft on a board or a block of wood. Then with a hammer, pound the other end of the axle shaft to drive out one of the four caps retaining the u-joint. Then turn it and do the same on the other side. With two caps removed, you can seperate the axle shafts.
    IMG_0185_zps5eb1313b_fa421853c9c1030e4487fff08ee6330db396ce0a.jpg
    IMG_0186_zps66416de9_b6b91b884fc6f9deef76f84a364ca96001a04ca2.jpg
    IMG_0187_zps91aa8ae3_9e3c6f7edfb7300ccfdc32dd3ff7800e8e704630.jpg

    To remove the u-joint remaining within one of the axle shafts, press the axle shaft down while the u-joint ends rest on the two metal plates of the press. This pushes and axle shaft down forcing another u-joint cap out. Do this to both side and you can then remove the u-joint with both caps out.
    IMG_0188_zps6f01de76_5ced462edfda4963c37e884aa2536f6a09ceaa67.jpg
    IMG_0189_zpsa648f04c_fdca0de55492fabf783b57c03a98ce9567ee48b4.jpg
    This may not be the best way to do it but they were so badly rusted in there, I was'nt sure what else to do.

    If anyone else knows of better ways to do something, during any part of this project, please keep me posted.

    Again, I never really worked on anything like this before so your input helps me out alot!
     
  8. Jan 1, 2014 at 7:30 PM
    #28
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I began cleaning up all of the parts, starting with the hubs, using a wire wheel and sander to remove all the rust. After that I wiped them down with rubbing alcohol and brushed on a thick coat of paint.

    IMG_0502_zps99eddd08_583fb401e056bffb0c565117f3c6d9f7b1972bb1.jpg

    IMG_0503_zps472e4558_e09f2efc287eba6887c24e5748f70981faed3354.jpg

    I also cleaned up the differential cover and replaced the bolts with new 5/16 18x3 3/4" Stainless Steel hex bolts and 5/16 washers. Removing the drain plug just requires the square end of a 1/2"drive socket wrench. I just let the rusted up drain plug sit in a cup of coke over night and it came out like new.

    IMG_0496_zps79b68cc2_eba607ab5a08e6ed15c28524d21e4012428b17b9.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2014
  9. Jan 2, 2014 at 5:58 AM
    #29
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Yeah you will want to replace that diff cover with something more substantial too. First rock you bump that thing into will make it kiss your ring gear and go kaboom. Check out ruffstuffspecialties.com or ballisticfabrication.com for a nice plate diff cover. Tinfoil is for the kitchen, lol.
     
  10. Jan 2, 2014 at 2:32 PM
    #30
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Pirhett likes this.
  11. Jan 2, 2014 at 2:48 PM
    #31
    J88logue

    J88logue NorthWest Member

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    Sub'd for when i tear my axle apart and build it, +1 for the writeups, BTW i like the 2nd diff cover design as well.
     
  12. Jan 2, 2014 at 3:08 PM
    #32
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Once I got the knuckle back from WFO Concepts, I sanded both knuckles down and covered them in paint.

    I also was able to press in the new ball joints I got from Drivetrain America (Part #706116X Spicer- upper/lower kit). http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/c-64-axle.aspx

    I was told spicer makes a pretty good ball joint, but if you have the money it seems that you should go with "Moog" balls joints instead. There about double the price but you get what you pay for. Maybe someday...

    Start by pressing the bottom one in first. Your going to need a large impact socket to fit over the bolt of the ball joint while pressing them in.
    Remember that the ball joint with the hole in the top of the bolt is the upper ball joint. Thats where you put the cotter pin back in.

    Make sure to line it up straight before you start pressing.

    IMG_0510_zps694847e8_3c67cf44644ae3d25828bf074bcd8387e5e5aede.jpg

    Then press in the top one...

    IMG_0511_zps04f98ea3_85f0db5755514041f085b353a35a64c14c026876.jpg

    Don't forget the snap ring that goes on the bottom ball joint!

    IMG_0512_zps95522ae4_3dfee7c5646eac7bdb0e256be404a8c78aaedf04.jpg

    Bolted on the steer arm from WFO concepts
    IMG_0516_zps362e5315_6f3dbadeaf169b9da03a141fa55dbd015e53b7e6.jpg

    IMG_0517_zpsc6c9b082_ab780ce9b63c7a2c5d9f98ebda128a2269d0be54.jpg

    IMG_0518_zps7cb29edf_d83a2b337feed5c6e4283ccf203965c168559f83.jpg
     
  13. Jan 2, 2014 at 3:11 PM
    #33
    J88logue

    J88logue NorthWest Member

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    seriously - it's like watching porn. :D

    I've been looking for a good deal on a gm passenger flat top for a while now.
     
  14. Jan 2, 2014 at 3:17 PM
    #34
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, this project could go a lot quicker but it takes a long time if your searching for a good deal on all the parts...which is what I have been doing.
    I've been looking at ebay and craigslist every day!
     
  15. Jan 2, 2014 at 3:31 PM
    #35
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Santa helped me out too...

    Since I want to completly finish the axle first I got an adapter FLANGE (26 Spline to Toyota) that allows you to bolt on a toyota drive shaft to the Dana 44 (Part # 1B-3051A).
    I also got the pinion nut (#DAN30185) and washer (#DAN30186).

    Santa must have got it from http://www.partsmike.com/index.php?crn=219 ;)

    IMG_0520_zps02a7a6c1_51e445e4510fd5e694e6c7cbc5fb765237e11648.jpg

    I also got Warn Premium Locking Hubs (20990)

    IMG_0521_zpsf3b730e0_87bee54a85cfc5e6dff2fe74bc53686f89e90884.jpg
     
  16. Jan 2, 2014 at 3:43 PM
    #36
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I would like to know what some of you think about brake options.

    After looking at previous builds, I just picked up some OEM Jeep J10 calipers that bolt right up to the stock brake brackets. I know that I'm going to be needing an adapter for the brake lines and upgrade the master cylinder, but has anyone else used these before? I'm thinking about running 36 or 37" tires.

    I just got some duralast brake pads too.

    IMG_0522_zpsda9a00c8_152f5365123d959a635fae0a6a4a98a58cc16533.jpg
     
    Pirhett likes this.
  17. Jan 2, 2014 at 4:24 PM
    #37
    J88logue

    J88logue NorthWest Member

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    I plan on running the same wan rubs - i haven't thought much about the drivelines.

    For some reason, i've just thought i'd get new 1 piece drivelines made front/rear.

    How else are people with taco sas doing it?? What are some options?
     
  18. Jan 2, 2014 at 6:31 PM
    #38
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Heres a shot of all the parts so far...:drool:

    IMG_0519_zps73fa9250_08bee379abc98a0efde61b686d2445824263c79f.jpg
     
  19. Jan 2, 2014 at 6:46 PM
    #39
    thegame

    thegame WUT?

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    When I put the Waggy axle in my last Tacoma, I used Jeep Grand Wagoneer calipers and the off-the-shelf extended Pro Comp brake lines bolted right up with no modifications needed. Not sure about J10 calipers. I also used the stock master cylinder and could lock 37's up on the freeway.
     
  20. Jan 2, 2014 at 7:17 PM
    #40
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, thats good to know, I'm sure Grand Wagoneer and J10 brake calipers are nearly the same. Maybe I won't even need to upgrade the master cylinder at all.
     
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