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Tacoma SAS Part One: Dana 44 Rebuild

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by tacoma02, Dec 30, 2013.

  1. Feb 28, 2014 at 5:19 PM
    #61
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for the wait, money kinda prolongs this project.....
    and to answer your question, that's the reason I didn't go with high steer. I just couldn't afford another flat top knuckle and high steer arm. Its always something I can switch over too in the future, and I probably will.

    Here's my next step...Welding on the spring perches.

    Some advice first,

    It is probably better to just tack weld the spring perches, along with the outer C's, until you are ready to put the axle on the truck. The reason I am jumping the gun on everything is because the swap will probably be done at my buddies shop, and by having the axle completly ready we can get it done sooner.

    Also get taller leaf perches if your going with a cross over steering set up. My leaf perches are about 3/4" off the axle housing and it looks like the leafs will be hitting my tie rod. So I will probably have to get longer u-bolts and 1 inch lift blocks.

    Like I said before, I'm learning as I go with this project, and screwing up to learn something usually costs $

    Also make sure you know how to weld, or know someone who does before you do this! I had my buddy come over, whose a pipe fitter, to weld up everything with a stick welder.

    First, square off the knuckles on both sides, using a square.

    IMG_0623_zpse252acca_0fbe851670b93d9c01397b680995766cbe5de756.jpg

    What we did to get the correct caster was to set a level on the studs of the knuckle and we jacked up the differential until it read level.

    When I first rotated the outter C's, I rotated them about 12 degrees back, but you still need to have the correct caster angle. Caster angle is more important that pinion angle! (Negative caster is bad, which is where the knuckles point downward. Positve is good, but not to much positive).

    So what I orignally thought was that you keep the spring perches level with the C's, but then we noticed that keeping the C's and perches level didn't give us the best caster angle.
    We found this out by setting the level verticle on the face of the knuckle. When the knuckle was level at the studs, it was leveled vertically, meaning level tires. So keeping the knuckles themselves level gave us the best positive caster (knuckles pointing a hair upwards). In yet the C's were turned far enough to still retain a good pinion angle.

    So you can kind of see that the C's look a little tilted back now.

    IMG_0624_zps2aed29ba_fbcd334f3a5572f55d08864fb76155b5b253c636.jpg

    IMG_0627_zps1f29fb83_b1b247ab9f7d123829f5409667773b6b6aa308a9.jpg

    IMG_0626_zps348af36e_430f882a1646c82e140252fcb0ed3ce21d03a527.jpg


    I'll try to add some more photos later, to try to show you what I mean, if this didn't make sense.

    Next we got the perches centered on the axle tube. Basically keep them in line with where the perches were originally at on the stock spring under set up. I beleive the eyes of the perches are somewhere around 31 1/2" apart.

    Also make sure that there each the same distance way form the C's.

    IMG_0628_zpsd464d467_2d3605a2d8a4b61483ab088cf22c42fff3121f50.jpg

    IMG_0631_zps79ce6b1a_51ee00bce4cb0fd6bee6f6e702cf0a7ded83ed19.jpg

    IMG_0629_zps49b95206_5b1c4d3547dab3bd360103962a4621d07ebfcf18.jpg

    Welded them up.

    IMG_0630_zps144fcc4d_71ed388fd8b488aa5284682df6dd64f2cde9c396.jpg

    IMG_0632_zps5c92837a_e795cf1c3dfbfbf8c39ba99e00acc585bf13aea8.jpg

    Also welded on the mount for the steering stabilizer.

    IMG_0635_zpsa60bad41_f77930c56a27947098f42a1bcd39ce31981f27b0.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2014
  2. Feb 28, 2014 at 7:15 PM
    #62
    thegame

    thegame WUT?

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    I guess that works, as long as you know what caster you want to go with. I basically had to do what you are doing, have everything ready to go, roll the axle under and weld 'er up. Went from IFS with no lift on Friday to driving solid axle on Sunday evening (drove to In N Out that night). Hoping to be as prepared for my current trucks SAS but it will be a lot more involved than the last :)
     
  3. Mar 1, 2014 at 11:26 AM
    #63
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I just got the tie rod and drag link mocked up as well.

    Part Numbers:
    www.WFOConcepts.com
    7/8"-18 LH Thread Draglink End ES2027L $29.99
    7/8"-18 RH Thread Tie-Rod End ES2010R $29.99
    7/8"-18 LH Thread Tie-Rod End ES2010L $29.99
    7/8"-18 Threaded Tube Inserts, 1" I.D. Tube WFO 1876-L $11.99
    7/8"-18 Threaded Tube Inserts, 1" I.D. Tube WFO 1876-LR (Pair) $21.99

    http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?listcategories
    Toyota Pitman Arm Adapter 23mm TOY-PAA-001 $32
    Tube Insert 23mm, 1.25 thread, right handed SKY-TTI-000 $10

    Metal Supermarket
    1.5 OD x 0.250 DOM Tube (Drag Link) ~56" CTRD11214 $43.04
    1.5 OD x 0.250 DOM Tube (Tie Rod ) ~52" CTRD11214 $39.96

    I cut the tube for the tie rod down to 47 1/2"
    Better to buy a little extra then to be short!

    IMG_0638_zps68afba96_dee3fc832b71909d54fc19a6264d7ebcc0d54395.jpg

    The tube inserts fit snug into the 1" inside diameter tubing. My buddy is going to weld them up with a TIG Welder.

    IMG_0643_zpsa7e79a55_cb6353124e7f9d25b44e32f3598c165d6a478423.jpg

    Here's the drag link. I had the high steer arm tapered for a chevy drag link. This will give you the best articulation, and it sits nice and high and should clear the springs without a problem.

    IMG_0642_zps2a48ec5a_570943798b6289b89db4ab02bb3750d926e6c9bc.jpg

    IMG_0637_zpsdbf4a096_32d15f64ea16afb151f121aba22cf36d97486055.jpg

    I also got my used 1994 Toyota Steering Box from Ebay for $84. It came with a pitman arm so what I did was just by a pitman arm adapter from Sky Off Road Design with the matching 23 mm tube insert so I can attach the pitman arm to my drag link without messing around too much.

    124e8719-b79d-4e42-b0f9-b96a7f2e7159_zps_76cc7ac3f9c0dc0c87e73cbddf2def5854978500.jpg

    14a93e8f-2730-42a4-8818-380643b2df1f_zps_da4e3bcb5def5a499d27002482f2b3a2de7fcf3a.jpg

    IMG_0650_zps66c25eca_d981a20c969c94efb6b5548c92d96e65398301ac.jpg

    I'll have to wait until everythings on the truck to work any further on the drag link of course.
     
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  4. Mar 1, 2014 at 12:03 PM
    #64
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here's some more pictures of what I was trying to get at earlier. This just seems to be the best way to get the correct caster in my mind. Its still probably better to just tack everything and check it while the axle is on your truck.
    The axle might not even sit completly level when its on the truck, depending on the angle on the leaf springs. Shims could probably help fix this if I run into that problem later.

    So.....
    I have the studs of the knuckle level with the spring perches.

    IMG_0639_zps737ff731_9b3c9463c50ff9f0fb233091d8ee507f46ebf573.jpg

    When the knuckles are sqaured off, the face of the knuckles are completly level, which means that the tires are going to be level when I'm driving straight.

    IMG_0640_zps36c133d2_c6d24f69ebdfb653b49e8f6c988262dc408b37a0.jpg

    When turning the knuckles, as if steering to the left while driving, you can see that the face of the knuckle isn't level anymore but its off to the side just a bit. This shows that when turning, the tire will actually be going into the turn, which is what you should have.

    IMG_0641_zps0066b4f6_d32848e734355f33f5de027474bb139f6ff80994.jpg

    Also another thing to notice is that the entire tie rod rises a little bit on one side or the other, depending on which way you turn. This is where I saw that my leafs would hit against the tie rod since there isn;t enough space, so I will need to get about 1" inch lift blocks to solve this.

    IMG_0647_zps88ef6456_978fbbeec8fff4d068f2f42b275f8afef72f7554.jpg
     
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  5. Mar 3, 2014 at 9:44 AM
    #65
    J88logue

    J88logue NorthWest Member

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    Thank you for all the pics etc... it's gonna make my build so much easier.

    So i must say i just picked up 3 dana 44 flat top knuckles over the weekend. A full pair, and one L as well. So if you decide you'd like a left for a reasonable price let me know. :)
     
  6. Mar 8, 2014 at 8:07 PM
    #66
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Started regearing the axle today. It just so happens that my fiance's father is a drive train specialist so we were able to take it to his shop.
    I wouldn't do this unless you have regeared an axle sucessfully before or is working on it with someone who has. If you never have done this before, don't even follow the steps I'm about to show you since its much more indepth. You can typically just have a shop do it for around $200 if the axle is off the truck, which is not a bad price. It's definitly something that has to be done correctly!

    If you do have a shop do it, just dont even touch the gears of the axle. The shop will use the current setup as a refrence, to help determine how much to shim it, etc.


    IMG_0659_zps144c6688_749491ac99ae3f92de99b4a9c1f12500cd549618.jpg

    First thing, removing the clamps over the carrier. Notice the "arrows" marked on the clamps and the housing. They point different directions on each side so you put the clamps back on the correct side when your finished.

    IMG_0660_zps4adb58cb_e104071668088fc1ff5b0b37223af986d03bdee7.jpg

    Cleaned up the face of the housing where the gasket meets the diff cover.

    IMG_0661_zps4c17485d_3154ef0461d41de64ff19c24be3b1d3095ebb2bc.jpg

    After removing the clamps, the entire carrier should just come out... But it didn't.

    To remove it we had to remove the pinion nut and the pinion flange.

    IMG_0664_zps6bfb75fd_bb0644b9dc43ef86bcf6a5bf9c405c8b3664cce1.jpg

    IMG_0666_zps880b16a9_da1d539ea2ed5471ea1a234881b07fd2e61ae377.jpg

    Then we took a air hammer, put it on the end of the pinion gear, and used it to pound out the pinion gear to push out the carrier (which I don't have a picture of).

    But here you can see this loosened up the carrier enough that we were able to pry it out of place.

    IMG_0669_zps5b30004d_138c0d277e2fbd3d0443da40ca1f15212c021469.jpg

    IMG_0673_zps8c08d5e6_c8eccd9fbc97f9de6e286a982997dfe1dcdeaf8d.jpg

    IMG_0676_zps6fd59c07_2f37dfd75409ee320104511fdc7276a5111aab86.jpg

    So the pinion gear also came right out, which allowed us to pound out the inner bearing races which seat the pinion bearings.

    IMG_0679_zps01afae1e_97b39d3ff8efbe2191024a3a8eb882cc443be140.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2014
  7. Mar 8, 2014 at 8:50 PM
    #67
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Then we saw that there were inner axle seals.
    For some reason the expensive "master install" kit dosen't even come with seals....

    IMG_0682_zps25e32cf3_f477e36abbe548dfb38ffb345c6ab19b0291d36b.jpg

    So I had to make a quick run to Autozone.
    Part Number #012076 5153 Timken seals (2) $18.12

    IMG_0686_zpsdbd76067_b4cd87760932a29f8b408feb77c3d52a9d5d5ab9.jpg

    To reomve those old seals, you can either take a slide hammer to pull them out or just take a long rod or pipe to pound them out from behind.

    IMG_0683_zpse278b1b3_ec4eba25e2e57c0d4a7e30f72a1da6857f6060f1.jpg

    IMG_0685_zpsa4879fd1_70eaa98d7ca5a61d152d121776a40879759879bd.jpg

    Then we cleaned up the housing before pressing the new seals back into place.

    IMG_0687_zps39b4988a_96bc06596ed4965a7d4f843d67b502367619e82a.jpg

    To get the new seals back in, you can place a "bearing driver" against the seal and tape it in with a hammer and pipe.

    IMG_0694_zps9a2eb5c9_a307d51e8922cc07af6fcb36e0290ec0526b9159.jpg

    IMG_0691_zps524f5624_b3a19ccb846e1c8631be9e7f1f3b5bfc731316c1.jpg

    We decided to clean it before we went any further. We just took a pressuer washer to it.
    Like I said before, it was pretty dirty inside the housing...no thanks to the mice that made it into a home over the winter and packed it full of corn.

    IMG_0689_zpscef5812b_eda28b21fb7b97e98c2775ab416f46b82bfed91f.jpg

    All clean...

    IMG_0696_zps9cb39dc0_4cc32fd8dab64c86e6744e807c5669aa10f51dc8.jpg
     
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  8. Mar 8, 2014 at 9:52 PM
    #68
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    We tapped the new pinion bearing races back in. One on the inside of the housing and one from the outside.

    IMG_0699_zps327284e7_db4d33497bb3bba846219a2d8d88571a91e3d129.jpg

    Here's a trick to pounding the upper race in. Just take one of the old races, flip it upside down and set it on the new race to tape it in. It acts like the perfect size bearing race driver.

    IMG_0710_zps1d8d9df6_813a8b534b7018ada6745040fd25534779548eca.jpg

    Using a 12 ton press, we pressed the new lower pinion bearing on the new pinion gear.

    IMG_0707_zps81d5c588_3b9824e8108a26625e07433a5edcc24ade5acc23.jpg

    Looking at the other pinion gear as a reference, we were able to gauge how many shims to put on the shaft of the new pinion gear. (You can't really see the shims in this picture, but there on there, on the seat under the splines)

    IMG_0713_zps65cca8ec_bed2d008bf5550686672765a3f544e46f59f1547.jpg

    Then we slid the pinion gear into the housing.

    IMG_0708_zps72d93622_90d7d38693cfbed7d434f52e52840a0ec81564b5.jpg

    To see if we had the correct amount of shims on the pinion gear, we drove the old flange and old pinion nut back on the end (using the old flange and nut just so we don't beat up the new one).

    IMG_0712_zpsdf4b787e_c861ddf24515a327f0ad3947e5716f96e9e9506e.jpg

    IMG_0711_zps75019c31_e0c5949a8e379dabe299a6705b58037f21bb7572.jpg

    We had to do this process about three times. Removing and adding different size shims to the pinion gear until it was right.

    You can tell if it's shimmed correctly by grabbing the pinion flange and try to move it. It shouldn't have any play up and down and if it does, that means you have to many shims. To few of shims, the flange doesn't have any play but then you can barely turn it by hand, which isn't good either.

    We finally got it right. It rotated relativly easy by hand and didn't have any play in it when it was "preloaded" to 25 inch/lbs, which is what the instructiosn called for.

    IMG_0715_zpsb0973db3_97969dcfe76a09202412614ab7933bb973fe43f3.jpg
     
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  9. Mar 8, 2014 at 10:18 PM
    #69
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Since I got a new carrier for the 5.38 gears, the planetary gears within the old carrier have to be put into the new carrier....Unless I end up putting in a locker which I'm probably going to do. I believe a locker would replace the planetary gears within the carrier.

    First remove the ring gear bolts. Then the ring gear should come right off.

    IMG_0698_zpseada8867_c886479271ff04fada89cbd95b13b5defe1bb229.jpg

    Then find the small hole on the carrier that has the pin in it which retians the rod that holds the gears in place.

    IMG_0702_zps6c9040bd_cebab7cba585ec8eb68c1ea1533955bcb32666d1.jpg

    Take a small punch and tap out the pin. It only comes out on a certain side.

    IMG_0703_zpsa9c8cc7e_fcd1420f68c2e3d88ed9df6dffd01d5ecfc6ad79.jpg

    Take a larger punch and tap out the rod that holds the planetary gears.
    With the retaining rod out, the gears should just roll out of place.

    IMG_0704_zps58df7e05_ff3159f8e77222fc74d9286ccbcd945aa7b318fb.jpg

    IMG_0705_zps920e874f_db971ca27ca27b9011552af027010833a97b6baa.jpg

    IMG_0706_zpsb6889a5e_197d1e4cf99620f2cfeee6f58aa691f5c7ab29d4.jpg
     
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  10. Mar 9, 2014 at 6:38 AM
    #70
    avw4x4

    avw4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome man, glad to see you're making progress! Thanks a ton for documenting everything so thoroughly, makes for a great read! Good luck, can't wait to see how this ends up!
     
  11. Apr 30, 2014 at 5:49 PM
    #71
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for the delay, I should be able to get at the axle soon.

    We didn't have a press large enough to press the bearings off the old carrier and to press the new bearings on to the new. We wanted to take the old bearings off the old carrier to look at the shims as a reference.
    So, the rest of the differential might have to be put together at a local shop.

    I took this time to save up some money and buy a locker. I figured while the carrier is out, might as well put a locker in the front. It's not a selectable locker, just a cheap "lunch box" locker. Since it's up front, it's only going to engage when I have it in four wheel drive. So it won't affect my normal daily driving while in 2wd.
    After alot of research, it looks like this locker will have a very negligible effect on steering and seems to be a solid unit for the money.

    Dana 44 Yukon Spartan Locker- 30 Spline
    AxleQuickPerforamce Inc. (Ebay)
    $252.00

    IMG_0892_zps919bcafd_a761a753d254dad6882839573d0d2561e7f1e4c1.jpg
     
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  12. May 1, 2014 at 6:38 PM
    #72
    avw4x4

    avw4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Damn, that's an awesome price!

    As long as your hubs are unlocked you won't notice it at all on the road.
     
  13. May 1, 2014 at 7:40 PM
    #73
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Free shipping too!
    Just got it in the mail today. It even came in a cool box.

    IMG_0893_zps405cdebf_e005c84d2ec20c888dc6a4152556448c4eb764c6.jpg
     
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  14. May 1, 2014 at 8:17 PM
    #74
    WittyTaco

    WittyTaco Well-Known Member

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    Nice work so far man! Keep it up
     
  15. May 1, 2014 at 11:18 PM
    #75
    01Tac0ma

    01Tac0ma Bash Fabriction & Off-Road

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    Deffinatly subbed for this one! Awesome work so far
     
  16. Jun 8, 2014 at 8:14 AM
    #76
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    We had a local shop finish the rest of the regear. I wasn't able to watch him do it but I did have him snap a few pictures....

    IMG_1020_zps4d5d2d8e_2a1389cfab0de3ba46dc83e43b4796f117dfa1fc.jpg

    Locker installed

    IMG_1021_zps8e8211aa_df58d04dde622a3a6041427cc5a21833c34b55bd.jpg

    IMG_1022_zps15a557b1_bf81d24c215f4e0d12d2ba025256ab9a15fa8d31.jpg

    Corn in the housing again! Damn mice :mad:

    IMG_1023_zps37d622c0_73f787e1d38b3d6a69c52919a7960d9992f17995.jpg

    IMG_1024_zps08fe1c89_bd2c5bea550bbfac3737d08c9684e1353ae095f2.jpg

    IMG_1025_zpse43ec34a_777d4a6cc690ebb02f392b4ebbd3c9f6abd1d8d2.jpg

    IMG_1026_zps5a3f0e40_e08f58c43177e0feb35c42c3d2e81a4103114695.jpg
     
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  17. Jun 8, 2014 at 8:18 AM
    #77
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Toyota pinion flange

    IMG_1027_zpsd717464c_580207ec645e06a5a0858f9e5a4c046798c8b1f6.jpg
     
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  18. Jun 8, 2014 at 8:30 AM
    #78
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So after getting the axle back from the shop I was finally able to put it all back together!

    I started off by putting the axle back on some jack stands and carefully slid one of the axle shafts back into the housing.

    IMG_1028_zps9ae1e87e_f44a04c2946156ac71339d2deb876fbd828b5249.jpg

    After the axle shaft is seated, grab the seals that came with the spindle bearing kit. The largest rubber seal goes on first, followed by a plastic piece and then a small rubber grommet.

    IMG_1030_zps54113f2d_3a0dc387d42d435e04d82cb49dfab65ca243d827.jpg

    IMG_1029_zps33937034_62fc3f007409ec8542b3b92cdedaa7577e6ebf83.jpg

    IMG_1031_zps1e86ce25_c2006356044458698f4626f2d25c25c8df8479b0.jpg

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    IMG_1033_zpsc731f3af_182273ef1c4dc52d613f515cbb6b56050b3944d6.jpg

    IMG_1034_zps5d1aa3ab_011c5786fdc367b99e8fcb8fd062617410afa2a8.jpg
     
  19. Jun 8, 2014 at 8:47 AM
    #79
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thrush Welded Muffler Westin safari light bar
    Next slide the spindle back on. Before you do that make sure you cake the inside with grease and make sure its clean.

    IMG_1035_zps7e04654e_73dc1b64efb246cc162abc99bab271b6bc608130.jpg

    Also do yourself a favor and apply some anti-seize where the spindle meets the knuckle. This will greatly ease the removal process later on down the road!

    IMG_1038_zps2d23a768_1fedf8818267e692000ad229b3bcb143a71c1920.jpg

    It might take some hits with the rubber mallet to get the spindle re-seated since its such a tight fit.

    IMG_1039_zps58395052_1e938a8a24a147d435bb017fbb41a89c813d769c.jpg

    Once the spindle is seated flat against the knuckle the brake bracket can go on. Make sure its in the right position.

    IMG_1040_zpsc15e29d1_59b0955f814ebab0dc4c3c4e82d636b170bdbb1c.jpg

    Then get at tightening all of the nuts down.

    IMG_1041_zps6914f708_0b478e4e6970a031d05b985f0c1a05540b1a4c74.jpg

    IMG_1042_zps65832cf7_91b3e37bb32da90f500a8a967666fff67f44d2f5.jpg
     
  20. Jun 8, 2014 at 9:34 AM
    #80
    tacoma02

    tacoma02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    With the spindle and bracket tightened down, the hub and go over the spindle. Before putting the hub back on, make sure that both bearings are in the correct position and the hub is well greased.

    IMG_1043_zps1822d856_92b3642508cdbfa094888ffbed68c15a0811383d.jpg


    To tighten down the hub, gather up the original spindle nuts and the spindle socket.

    IMG_1044_zps3a93379e_5845423347fd3f8bc734d90ebfe839235c551241.jpg

    The bearing adjustment nut (with the pin) goes on first...

    IMG_1045_zpsf081de02_7c291294da57bce98dc642d4973ffc5e055e1169.jpg

    IMG_1046_zps761ca76a_bd2062c5648632c3fd012313245e164537774e68.jpg

    IMG_1047_zps36aa15e6_352d656dcf790ba7a109ce20a4a5be1be21b2160.jpg

    Then the washer goes on next. When you look at it closely, there is an arrow on the washer itself pointing to the hole that the pin on the nut should go into. This is a little tricky since there is a notch in the spindle that the washer must accept, so the washer has to match up with the notch on the spindle and the pin on the nut. This means that you need to play with the adjustment nut until the pin is in the right spot.

    IMG_1049_zps10c71bfa_51bdb7cb4b2dabb7764a498001845fbf7f638a65.jpg

    This is a crapy picture, but you can kind of see the arrow on the washer showing which hole the pin should go into.
    Once matched, make sure that the washer is seated flat against the adjustment nut before tightening on the last "lock nut".

    IMG_1055_zps9713140f_a31925d4c80f792040cf54e2bf80264f8d2f7000.jpg

    Thread the lock nut on and tighten it down. It would be good to look up the factory torque specs.

    IMG_1052_zpsfe7e8d6f_528a76f15daf3002d02b447023c08fe970291786.jpg
     
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