Tacoma SAS Part One: Dana 44 Rebuild

Finally, its time to install the locking hubs. I attached a link to pdf of the install instructions if you don't have them...

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=4ZwYa0txQZB-c_xhUZVV5w&bvm=bv.68445247,d.b2k

It says to first thread two pins 180 degrees apart onto the body of the locking hub. Using the two pins, wiggle the hublock body into the hub and slide it back and forth to insure that a "float" is evident. If there isn't, this means that the spindle nut is not in the correct position.





If there is "float" between the hublock body and the wheel hub, then insert the snap ring that fits within the notch on the end of the axle shaft.



If you can't get at the notch its becuase the axle shaft needs to be pulled forward. You can easliy do this by taking small pry bar, insert it by the u-joint, and gently pry the axle shaft foward.



Then use your snap ring pliers to put the retaining ring into place.


Next, slide the lock ring into the groove of the wheel hub. Push the open end of the ring in first.



Make sure that the hublock cover is in the "free" position and then seat it straight onto the end of the wheel hub and tighten down each pin.





With one side complete, repeat on the other side!

 

With both sides done, the axle is pretty much complete. I put some RTV sealant on the diff cover, along with the gasket, and put the cover on.
I also mocked up the position of the steering dampener which I might have to move since its not in the best position. Otherwise the axle looks good to go. Now I just have to get it under the Yota!

 

Looks great man!

What gears are you going to use for the rear? Which leafs are you planning on rubbing in the front?

 

I will be running 5.29 gears in the rear and 44044 wagoneer lift springs in the front.

 

Got the tires! Found these on craigslist for $1,100 and ended up paying $900. Seems like alot for used tires but there practically new. Better then paying $1,500 or more. The rims will have to be swapped out though.

36x12.5xR15 Super Swamper TSL Radials

 

Damn I am loving this progress. You ever think of building and selling axles?

 

Jesus dude, more pics!

 

why didn't you go full high steer??

 

Those tires are noisy. Round but noisy, I had the same exact ones on my last truck.

A note on the spindle washer with all the holes in it, sometimes you can flip it around and it will go right on. Always torque the inner spindle nut on, rotate the hub/rotor to seat the bearings then back off 1/4 turn on the spindle nut.

 

Thanks for the advice, I'll keep that in mind in the future.


Getting back to the axle, I started messing around with the spring perches again. I needed to make them a little bit taller to clear the tie rod and I also just wanted them a little more beefy.

I also got the 44044 leaf packs in today!

Started out by cutting two 3/8" steel plates to 5"x2.5" and then drilled out holes to fit the large center pin head of the leaf pack. The holes are 5/8"





I had my buddy the piper fitter weld on the perches. I also had him weld on some steel plates on the front and back of the perches to really "beef" it up.











We welded on a new bracket for the steering stabilizer. It's further down the axle housing so the end of the shock dosen't hit the diff at full steer.

 

Here's the leaf packs. Rancho 44044
$345 free shipping on ebay



Right when I got them I took them apart to bolt on some 4 degree shims.
I figured the 4 degrees will help retain the pinion angle that I want when the axle is on the truck in case the spring don't sit perfectly level.
After the swap, I'll just have to see how it rides.



To bolt on the shim I got a longer center pin, 3/8".



The hole in the shim needed to be drilled out to accept the new center pin.



Bolted it up to the leaf pack.

Note: the front of the 44044 spring pack is the side with the two leaf clamps.



With the leaf packs bolted back up I was able to set them on the axle.

Now its starting to look like something.

 

This is a list of parts for rebuilding the Dana 44. This dosen't include some of the metal that I used. Most of the metal was just from scrap that I had found in my garage.

 

Looks good. I had done the same thing with my first Tacoma SAS. Get everything ready to go and swap it in a weekend! It can be done

You'll know more once the weight of the truck is on the springs/axle but I would focus more on caster angle than pinion angle. On a street driven rig, your pinion angle could be perfect but it'll drive like shit because your caster angle is far from perfect. And 4* will make a huge difference in handling. Just my 2 cents

 

progress?

 

Sorry, not a whole lot of progress. I just made the top spring plates and thats about it.

I made the plates out of 3/8" thick cold rolled steel. I think there 5.5x4.5" if I can remember. Of course the holes on the drivers side plate are not going to match since there is a 3.5" and 3" u-bolt on that side. The 3.5" u-bolt is needed to make it around thicker section of diff housing.



With a cheap drill press and cheap drill bits, the holes took a long time to drill out with that hardened cold rolled steel. Used lots of cutting fluid!



I drilled out all of the holes at 5/8". Even though the u-bolts are 9/16", I just wanted a little bit of play for everything to sit right. The center bolt hole needed to be 5/8" though...





I also got my 5125 14" Bilstein shocks. Four of them for $320 and free shipping on Ebay. I just wish they came with the shock boots.



I did by a little shock boot for the steering stabilizer for $2.84 from Summit on Ebay.

 

update?

 

Swapping out the white jeep rims for the black chevy 6 bolt rims (15x10).







Balancing the old swampers wasn't the easiet thing to do. After a pile of lead weights, we got them close.

 

I said this was going to show step by step...So I'll show you taking apart the rear axle to remove the third member that needs to be re-geared.

After getting the truck on stands I removed the back tires and popped off the drum.



To remove the brake assembly, first pull the small bottom spring out with a pliers and some muscle.



Next locate the two springs on the side that are held on by a pin. Grab the spings with a pliers and turn them until the pin head slids threw the slot, releasing the springs.







Start removing the e-brake cabels.





Then the brake assembley should just come right out.





Continue removing the e-brake. There is a little horse-shoe clip holding one of the brackets in place. Used a needle nose and a flat head screw driver to remove it.





Then remove the two inside bolts...They were rusted so bad that one just sheered off.





Remove the outside spring that holds the e-brake cabel to the dust sheild.





Now the e-brake can be taken out.

 

Just read through this whole thing. Amazing stuff, keep it up! Love reading this kind of stuff!

 

Using a 10mm flare nut wrench, remove the brake bleeder and the brake line.



The brake line fitting was the hardest thing to remove. I had to heat it up for a while to break it free. I kind of wrecked the end of the brake line doing this. Just another thing I'll have to fix.





Once the brake line is free, there are just two bolts on the back side of the dust shield that hold the brake cylinder. Once removed, the cylinder was coaxed off with a hammer.



Next remove the four bolts that hold the hub and axle shaft on the housing. At this point you should also remember to drain the oil from the differential (using a 24mm socket).



With everything off, the axle shaft can be carefully pulled from the hosuing.





I wrapped up the end of the brake line and the housing to prevent crap from getting in.

Its also a good idea to wrap up the end of the axle shaft to protect the splines if your going to be working on it.