Tacoma shuts off while driving. Please help.

No

 

There is a massive amount of misinformation on this thread. Like the most I have seen in a while.

That wire is NOT frayed. That is a shielded wire to prevent electrical interference from a signal either coming from a sensor or going out from the computer. Don't touch it, and definitely do not rip it out! Leave that be and continue on with your searching.

Based on what I have seen, you have or had some sort of aftermarket device or setup in there and they either pulled it out and rewired it poorly or your device is internally failing and causing your electrical system to go haywire.

Now if you can duplicate your no crank no start no start moment still, connect your scanner and look at the general data on it. Look for a PID labeled STA. If you see that is coming on when you turn your key and it will not crank or start that is good. If you see it is not, that is not good because the computer sends the signal to crank the engine, in which case you would end up needing an ECM as it is no longer reliable.

 

So you're saying that wire is normal?

 

That's exactly what I'm saying.

 

It hasnt stalled since i changed the EFI fuses. Last time it did this was months ago. I dont know why it would be so intermittent.

 

Not trying to bug you, but does the CEL come on for a bulb check when you turn the key on? Is the bulb burned out? Have you actually scanned it for codes?

I am skeptical that over the course of all that stalling there is no codes..

 

That's definitely good!

The micro fuses that come in these trucks' junction block are decent at best. I have had issues with them as well. My most recent incident was when the interior lights stopped illuminating. I pulled the fuse and reset it, surprise surprise, the lights came back on. Needless to say I am slowly switching out to Mini fuses over these micros.

 

I double and triple checked, the bulb works. I was about to go as far as trying to make the CEL come on to test it.

 

I just went through the ECU prints and found only six sensors to the ECU with shielded wires:

1 - Crank Position Sensor ( Black Wire to ECU )

2 - Knock Sensors Banks 1 and 2 - ( Bank 1 sensor uses a black wire to ECU )

2 - Air Fuel Ratio Sensors Banks 1 and 2 ( No Black Wire To ECU )

1 - Throttle Body Motor - ( No Black Wire to ECU )

Out of those options I would say the most likely suspect is the Crank Position Sensor. This wire looks to be pulled out of the connector and doesn't appear to be mated properly.

See the image below which is of another 2008 Tacoma ECU that is normal. Notice there is no exposed wire/shielding. In any case the image of the OP's is Not what would be considered "normal" by any reasonable electrician or electronics tech. I would at least investigate that wire further, Sum Ting Wong.

<---- Electronics Tech > 40 years.

 

Sum Ting Wong. Lol. Jimmy I kindly disagree with your statement. Having worked with these connectors and wiring in the past, particularly that one, It appears that Toyota in their infinite wisdom has been doing this for a while. That wire is bare silver stranded in color (Not copper colored). They wrap those shielded wires in black electrical tape a few mm before the exposed part of it makes it's way into the pin and harness connector. The OP can confirm this by going back to said connector he took the photo of and examine it, or peel some of the tape off. This appearance of that wire is normal. If you still have your Taco, you can confirm this yourself by finding out which plug that is and inspecting the connector for yourself.

To folks like you and I, this looks odd and initially raises a red flag, but it is a setup which seems to exist across the 2nd gen taco's and likely the 3rd gens as well. Highly likely Toyota is doing this in other models also.

 

Quick data point - my '12 had that black wire with partly exposed shielding. My '14 does not. '12 = Hecho en Mexico. '14 = Made in Texas. Could be a simple QC issue with the wrap over the shielding, and nothing more. I can't say that with authority, just with my own limited data set.

 

If you want to see if that wire is a problem get a multimeter and you can do a (ohms) resistance check from one end of the wire to the other (this has to be done with wire disconnected at both ends)resistance should be close to zero. Another test would be a voltage drop from one end of the wire to the other (this test is done with everything plugged in and the wire loaded e.g. engine running, current flowing along the wire). This voltage drop measurement should also be close to zero.

If the resistance is ok and the voltage drop is minimal the wire is fine..

 

Still has not stalled. I dont get it and im pretty sure it will happen again in a month or two like last time.

 

I know it sucks to not be 100 % sure about your wheels.. try grabbing on some wires and twisting stuff around. If the engine bucks or starts to stall your holding the problem.. it sounds weird but it might yield some answers. Disconnect the pcm and visually look at the pins, make sure some of the wires aren't being pushed back out of the terminal causing a (intermittent) loose connection. Take the screws off the lid covering the circuit board and look for a burned spot, sometimes you can smell when there is a crispy spot. If you carefully look around you may stumble across the problem..

 

Is the PCM the same as ECU/ECM? Sorry i just got off work from a 12 hour shift and im a little fried like my truck.

 

Haha yea pcm ecm ecu..

 

How is it running since it has not stalled on you?

 

Its running great.

 

What about a intermittent pcm (power) relay.. it's in the fuse box it should be labeled. If you take the plastic cap off you can look it over real close maybe it's partially cooked?