Tacoma

So I installed Bilstein 5100s on my 2017 tacoma sport 4x4 DCSB two weeks ago. I put them to the 1.55" setting plus I added a 1/4" spacer on the driver side to correct the lean. Obviously this gave me reverse rake so I scrambled to 4wheelprts the next day and grabbed some non-tapered 1" blocks to put in the rear. After installing that myself as well, I could feel very faint intermittent vibrations. Not really driveline shutter, but more just general faint vibrations. I got paranoid because I've had past issues with driveline angles after using blocks on another truck so I freaked out and took the blocks off and dropped by front end back down to zero setting. Because I didn't use a spring compressor, rather the floor jack under the control arm method to put the 5100s in to begin with, I unfortunately found out the hard way while attempting to put the stock Sport shocks back in that they are too short and my truck start to lift entirely after I had compressed the spring thus I was unable to get my stock shock back in using that method. Therefore I threw the 5100s on at the zero setting and it has solved most of my vibrations. HOWEVER, I'm still getting extremely faint vibrations intermittently while driving. I can't imagine it being from the 5100s being stiffer (at zero setting) than my stock sport shock, by if it is can someone confirm that? Otherwise any one have any other thoughts or suggestions? Could it be from having 5100s only in the front and the stock hitachis in the rear??! Or am I just paranoid and the vibrations were always there from the beginning!? Help! I think I'm paranoid

 

At full extension, yes the length of your stock shock will be a little short at the top to reach thru the hole at the upper mount. Same with the 5100s. Mine are at the 2nd ring for .65 inch of lift. They are running smooth and without vibrations. Did you have an alignment done after installing the shocks?
An alignment is definitely needed, and without it, could be causing vibrations.


Using the same method as you:
I was able to guide the top of the rod of the shock thru the upper mount hole using an open end wrench pushing sideways onto the piston rod with one hand, while at the same time using my left hand to operate the floor jack to push up the lower control arm. It took a few attempts, but after a few tries a was able to get it threaded thru the upper mount hole.

 

If you reinstalled the 5100’s at the bottom notch(no lift) and the blocks are removed you are at factory drive angles. I highly doubt any vibrations that were not there before are present and your most likely literally reading into everything by the seat of your pants. Trust me I have been through it by switching from this to that and back.

 

You are just hypersensitive to everything... It's happened with everything I've done to my truck. It will go away : )

 

You are correct! Haha I think once I added the blocks, because I've had problems before on another truck, I immediately started looking for vibrations, and naturally I found them. So after I dropped it back to stock I convinced myself they were still there. The other day, however, I'm convinced all vibrations are completely gone. I think the shocks may have needed a few hundred miles to break in or something because my ride is back to smooth as butter. Keeping the 5100s on the front because I like have more travel for off roading and considering slapping some 5100s o the rear and calling it a day. Thoughts?

 

The vibration could have been caused also by failing needle bearing (front diff ds). Needle bearings are prone to failure, supposedly anytime, but especially after any amount of lift. When you're driving and have a vibration, switch 4 x 4 on, if I bration goes away there's a high chance that it was the needle bearing. There is a lot of info on that topic around here. Here is one thread you could check out.
Needle Bearing Failure With Lift (How Many)
Good luck.

Edit. I just realized that you wrote in last post, that you worked out your issue.... . So apparently I was wrong with my assumptions .
Carry on

 

Turn the fronts to 0.65” and install the 5100s on the rear. Rides as if they are on the very bottom notch, not rough at all.

 

I noticed my truck actually rides a bit better, even with the stock coils at the 4th notch. I also have a 1.5” block, it doesn’t vibrate any worse than before.... it’s always had a vibration and I’m used to it. Only negative I’ve found from preloading the stock coils is I have less uptravel in the front compared to before. I found myself worrying and looking for issues after the lift due to all the Negative press this method gets, when I should have just let it be.

 

Can you explain how alignments and vibrations are related.

 

Someone asked it and I didn't see you respond. Maybe I did not see the answer yet. But, did you get your truck aligned yet? I have the lifetime alignment at Firestone and took the first alignment and even another a month later after things started to settle for things to really get better. For me with me trying a couple different suspension setups my lifetime alignment has served me well.

 

Thanks for the response, and actually I had done some reading on needle bearing failure, however, I have tried switching back and forth between 4hi and 2wd and never can feel a difference so I ruled that out a couple weeks ago. Of course I know thats not the problem now because the little vibrations/bumps are completely gone now. I am still considering doing the ECGS Bushing install in the future though. Any thoughts on the bushing? Any negatives to installing it?

 

I've only heard of vibrations coming in higher speeds when a vehicle is in need of an alignment. Rarely though. Usually vibrations are caused by out of balance wheels, so yeah I'm curious to hear the cause of alignment related vibrations.

 

Thanks for the response. I agree about the hunting for problems after lifting. I think it's crazy that guys put all kinds of mods and changes into their trucks in the first year, especially when the BANK owns the vehicle and most people pay and extra $2k for the 7 year/100k mile warranty. That being said, i heard really good things about the 5100s and figured I would eventually put the lift coils on my 5100s to lift it properly, in the future along with some new leaf packs, however I couldn't believe that such a small shock lift would cause any real damage.

 

with the block did you replace your rear shocks?for more travel??

 

I did because the rear 5100s are cheap, but I still have shit for travel. I’m upgrading as soon as I decide how in depth I want to get.

 

Well, I just finished the install of my 5100s on all 4 corners last night. I had a local shop tear down my 4600s and install the springs to the new struts and set them at the 1.55" mark. Long story short...I HATE THE RIDE! It took away all the plushness to the OffRoad suspension. It is very stiff. I can't imagine how it'd be set at the 2" notch. I was expecting it to stiffen a bit but this is night and day difference. Needless to say, they are coming off and I will do something different. Can anyone tell me the ride difference between the 5100s and the stock 4600s if I leave on my stock springs but set the fronts at the lowest notch? Any info is helpful.

 

You are better off buying the OME springs for the lift height and load you’ll be carrying up front. It’s most likely what I’ll be doing, that or going 6112s. Reusing the factory coils to get lift just makes them stiff and leaves a lot of travel left on the table.

 

^^^ +1

Agreed. The ride does get much harsher when you try to preload the springs using the clip heights of the 5100s. I went at the 1.55" notch too at first and didn't like it so I dropped it back to stock but left the 5100s on. They are a cheap way to add some extra travel, but I agree with Hstone556, you should leave the springs on and just add lift coils. It'll give you better spring rate while giving you a lift and having good travel.

 

How is the ride with the 5100s if I set them at the zero lift notch and use the factory coils? Will it ride like it did with the 4600s before I jacked with it? I loved the stock ride...really plush.

 

At stock right now mine ride very smooth. Anyone who says its identical to stock is lying, and most people won't say that. It goes over speed bumps better, as in, the whole truck stabilizes itself much quicker. Going around turns at high speeds seems easier now too, less body roll. But going over small bumps you can feel a slight rougher suspension, which is good in my opinion. It seems like mine took 1k miles to "break in." Even at stock height setting, every little bump/crack in the road could be felt in the driver seat, but a few days ago I noticed I either got used to it or the shocks settled in because it rides very nice now. I've heard, however, that the 4600s are very similar to the 5100s so you should be all good going at zero setting.