Tailgate lock

Hey Folks,

My truck came with the automatic tailgate lock from the dealer. it is programmed to unlock with the driver door. So if I touch the driver door or press the unlock button once on the remote the tailgate unlocks. Because I'm in and out of my truck all day the tailgate lock is constantly locking and unlocking. I would prefer it only unlock when I press the unlock button twice like If i was unlocking the back doors. Does anyone have any info on programming it to the rear doors ?

 

Are you worried it's going to just wear out or something?

Because fuck... my topper has a lock on it that locks with the truck.. and it pisses me off that it won't unlock with the truck like 60-70% of the time.

I want the reverse of what you want. LOL

 

Not sure if you can program it, but the wire could be (changed) installed to the passenger door lock instead of the driver door is now.

 

its not a factory option. its either dealer or port installed and is most likely hard wired to the drive door lock switch.

 

Yes I'm worried it will wear out. I'm in sales so I'm in and out of your truck all the time. I believe it was port installed.

 

There’s no way to program it.
You’d have to rewire it to the passenger door.

Also, it’s under $90. If it wears out, just replace it.

 

it will probably wear out at the same rate as the driver door lock itself or close too it.

 

Will likely be years before it wears out. Just keep the latch clean

 

I assume it's covered under your warranty, because the dealer sold it that way. If it wears out the mech or the popper, great! Make them replace it.

 

The driver-side door lock actuator took about 12 years to wear out on my 03 Acura RSX. The passenger side went out about two years later.

So I suppose you have a valid point about excessive wear on the tailgate actuator but I figure you’ll get at least 10 years off of it, depending on your daily lock/unlock routine.

For the $90, or whatever it costs to replace the actuator, I’d rather possibly deal with that in 10 years than try to rewire it and possibly introduce electrical gremlins

 

Like the others said the dealer wired it to the drivers door, I would ask them to wire it to the rear or front passenger door. The wires are all in the same place under the kick panel so it shouldn’t be that hard to t-tap the rear.

Good luck and Welcome to TW!

 

Yea but then you’re talking about using shitty splice taps which compromise the integrity of the OEM wiring.

Call me crazy, maybe even slightly OCD, but the thought of doing that makes me cringe.

I know nothing of the installation or wiring of the tailgate lock but I doubt it’s as simple as moving a connector from point A to point B

 

I was thinking about wiring mine up to the door lock when I first got it, however, after having it awhile I believe I will just stick with the old key turn method.

 

I had power tailgate lock on my old truck and was disappointed that the Taco didn’t come with one. Not even an option.

I have a Tonneau cover so having a power lock was something I really wanted as I hated pulling the key out. I went through the write up and it was super easy to wire up. Through the passenger side so it doesn’t unlock/lock with the driver’s side door. I highly recommend doing it. ~$90 and 45 min of your time.

 

Several have already said, and they are right, there is not a programing solution as it is a port installed option and is wired to the driver's door. Mine is exaclty the same way. I can also verify it IS installed with taps, I discovered this when I was installing my power steps.

My 04 did not even have a lock so jus a lock is a hughe gain. For added security I put on a hard tonneau as I would assume that any theif would have a poket knife and could easily destroy a soft cover just to find an empty bed. I love the power lock on the tailgate with the hard cover, it seems quite secure. It at the very least secure enough to deter many possible theives.

I have been considering relocating the trigger wire tap to the rear door wire. I might move it when I open the kick panel for some other mod, but it is not enough of an irritant to stimulate me to open pull the panel for just that one task.

 

Pop off the driver kick panel.. that's likely where they tapped off for the the tail gate.
Disconnect and route it back to the rear drivers door pillar. Tap off those door lock wires instead.
Viola, unlocks with double click only

 

Pulling the panel was the easiest part of the install for me. Trying to fit the wire through the grommet in the tailgate and the bed was a pain. I just ended up drilling a hole in the plastic piece to get the wire through. But wiring it in the kick panel? Couple screws and pull up the panels. So easy.

 

I did not mean to imply that it was in any way difficult. If there was confusion on that point I appologize.

I was just trying to confirm that the others that had prevously stated it as a port option, not programable, and tapped to the driver's door lock were correct.

Additionally I was saying that it did not irritate ME enough to outweigh MY laziness and stimulate me to open the panel to move the tap. I have more pressing items to deal with (fence, grandson, thanksgiving at the office and home, Christams decor, shoppping, .... installing the PNP signal/tails from @mesojdm that he has not made yet)

However, more likely than not, I will have the panel off in the future for something else and at that time I will likely remeber that I would lke the tailgate trigger on the passenger/back door wire.

 

For those that are tapped on driver's door and want to move to passenger door, there is no need to pull the C pillar or back seat door jab, This is cut and paste from my powerstep installation giude. I do not know which is passenger door, however if you are triggered on the driver's door, it is the wire described that is NOT currently used.

"Driver side: Locate door ajar signal wires on driver side. Front: Solid Yellow, Rear: Solid Red or
Solid Pink."

I hope this is of some use to anyone that may wish to change teh trigger for thier tailgate lock.

 

Not sure this is correct. Those sound like trigger wires, not actual wires carrying current to actuate the actuator.

Hopefully, sOmebody with more knowledge then me will chime in.