Tailgate theft....How to prevent it....

According to a previous post in this thread, the clamp with the key is easily removed with a 12 point socket. No size was mentioned. I may buy one just to see if this is indeed true.

UPDATE - yes - the hose clamp with the special key is easily undone with a 7mm 1/4" drive socket.

And now for a bit of humor. For those who simply use an SAE #20 hose clamp, beware about installing it with the fastening part facing down. You may be thinking this will hamper the thief as he must now get underneath the truck and poke around up inside with a long screwdriver.

If you take this approach, the fastening part of the clamp will be in plain view once the gate is shut. The thief will be able to reach in at an opening in the lower right-hand corner with a flat blade screwdriver or ratchet with extension and an 8mm socket and have the clamp off in a second.

Washers are a good idea, but easily defeated in a blink with a Torx 40.

Pop n Lock - a member who also posted in this thread said he installs them for a living and that they can be removed in a blink with a cordless drill.

On each side I have a Master Security Cable - 1/4" x 6' Model 67D. I used a set of small padlocks to fasten down underneath the vehicle. Large padlocks are a waste of $$ as the thief will simply cut the cables if he's equipped. You will need to flatten the lead connectors in order to get them to feed down underneath the bed and to thread thru the brackets on each end of the bed. 3/8" cables in my opinion are too big to get thru either the bed brackets or down in between the bed and the bumper, even if they've been flattened. A thief can cut a 3/8" cable as easily as a 1/4" cable.

Don't be put off by what seems like negativity on my part. I have the SAE#20 hose clamp, a larger one wrapped around it, the washer mod(1 on each side) and 2 cable straps going from each side of the gate down underneath and pad locked. I'm simply pointing out the fact that anything mentioned in this thread can be overcome.

The approaches I've used will likely stop a person who has nothing but a pair of hands. Even if he's armed with all the necessary tools, will he want to spend the time needed to disable a total of 6 deterrents that I have in place? Hopefully not.

 

Just installed a clamp on my new to me 2012. Thanks for the tip, I had no clue these tailgates were so easy to run off with.

Next on the list is the Pop N Lock power lock and possibly some small wire cables.

 

New here. Got my 2013 truck when it came out. An friend told me about adding security to the tailgate. Got the pop n lock and clamp. Been there since the 1st week of the truck. Still running great.

 

How exactly does the washer mod work in that when I put one on and tighten it down, it prevents the eye hook on the cable from turning properly and causes it to bind seeing it takes up the small space needed for the hook to properly rotate?
If I loosen it up so that it doesn't bind, the bolt is not tightened down properly.

 

Its not suppose to be tight. Loosen the bolt just enough where u can get the eye to slide in position

 

Not supposed to tight it all the way down. it's there so it won't be a grab and go. Add loctite red threat locker for extra security.

unless he got a impact wrench Or a cable cutter... Its not coming off.

 

Two washers works perfect

I had to make the small one

 

Ok, so here is what I have done to keep my tailgate safe:

1. Hose clamp over a hose clamp.
2. Washers on cable bolts.
3. Pop & Lock power tailgate lock.
4. Pop & Lock keyed tailgate handle.
5. Cables and lock on both ends.
6. Installed a Gate-Keeper
7. Epoxied everything.
8. I keep this guy in the bed, though I do take a slight hit on gas mileage.... And it all seems to be working, as no-one gets near my truck.

 

Did or do you also recommend installing an after market locking tailgate latch handle?
And do they work well with the back up camera?

Thanks!

 

Here's my tailgate protection method... a locking tonneau cover... heh heh.



Just gotta remember to keep it locked now...

 

This is how I did it. Plus the old hose clamp.

 

This is the one to get. Koehler EZ20BK, available at Autozone stores, not online. The black key comes off, leaving a square shank, not easy to steal.
(Sorry, I couldn't make a pic for some reason, so you'll have to open the pdf.)

 

Add a bit of silicone adhesive to the screw and clamp so it just makes it a bigger pain in the ass to steal. Works like a charm

 

Eewwww! Yeah, that would be a big pain in the ass. Remember, though, at some point you may have reason to need the gate off yourself. Happens, you know. Enough of a hassle to deal with the camera cable and the P&P cable if you have that.

 

Seems several folks have been saying that the tailgate cable bolt is not supposed to be tight....


"Its not suppose to be tight. Loosen the bolt just enough where u can get the eye to slide in position"


That is not correct. The bolt for the tailgate cables is supposed to be tight, and if you don't take your Tail Gate off you might even add Locktight to make it harder to remove the bolt.


The photo above shows how a TW member made this work. He took the time to do it the right way. The Cable bolts are "Shoulder Bolts" you tighten them down tight and the shoulder lets the cable end move freely. When you add the outside washer to prevent the cable from being removed you shorten the shoulder area of the bolt and the cable end binds. By adding the small washer as MAXBOI showed in his post you lengthen the shoulder area back to where the cable does not bind and you can still tighten up the shoulder bolt as it was done from the factory. Takes a bit more time, but it is worth it as it works exactly like it did stock. My local Ace Hardware has a bunch of those specialty boxed hardware pieces and I was able to find stainless steel washers that were big enough to prevent removal of the cable, and bought 4 6mm Stainless steel washers (one wasn't quite thick enough) and used a drill press and motor grinder to open up the center hole to allow the threaded part of the bolt to go through the washer. No binding of the cable end and the Shoulder Bolts are installed very tight.

 

Thanks for the info everyone. I used ss hose clamp and thin ss cable w bug nut, nylon wrap around hinge section, rubber tape and electrical tape around bug nut. Will do the washer idea sometime and also have to wrap the hose clamp. Ya can see the cable, but its a work truck, doesnt bother me.

 

That's definitely not right. You actually mutilated a poor bug just for a security device on your tailgate?
...But you don't even include pictures for Oz? You need help, fella.

 

Yeah haha, actually secured cable to back cleats too, not a clean look, but again its a work truck. I saw the bumper application on this thread too late. The cable is thin enough not to crimp w shut tailgate, that was my main concern. Also looped cable enough for cleats to still be mobile and usable. I open the gate 10 times a day, working, so the reviews of the pop and lock handle wasnt a good option. If someone steals my ladders, i can replace them...a 20 second theft of the gate is all i'm concerned about.

 

Well,
I'll be doing this tomorrow.

 

ok...I did not read all 44 pages of this thread...so the answer may be in here somewhere. I am new to trucks & tailgates, etc...so I'm sure I am missing this...but how is the hose clamp mod gonna prevent someone from stealing the tailgate? Why can't they just remove the clamp...take the tailgate?