Take Off Shudder in 2014 Tacoma

Good evening TW.

I know that a lot of this has been covered in other threads (which I have read) but I wanted to get some input on my understanding of the options to fix this. I just got the truck about 2 months ago and as purchased it has 2" tapered blocks in the rear and a leveling kit in the front. The tires are 265/75R16 which I believe are slightly larger than stock. Overall I love the stance of the truck and want to keep the tires and 2"lift. It drives really good with no driveline vibration anywhere except coming off the line. I have changed the u joints and carrier bearing, and greased the slip joint and this helped. Carrier bearing is shimmed down about 3/8". Overall the shudder is pretty mild but I'd like to try to get it better and maybe get rid of the blocks in the process.

My understanding is that the shudder is most likely caused by axle wrap with the rear diff rotating pointing the pinion upwards creating weird u-joint angles. I guess the stock leafs get deformed into kind of an "S" shape under acceleration.

This being the case, would replacing the blocks with a taller, stiffer leaf pack be an option. I'm open to "add a leaf" or a complete spring set.

If I did this, is it recommended that that I still angle the pinion upwards slightly with shims? I've read a lot of different points of view on doing this vs matching the pinion angle to the output shaft of the transfer case.

To me this seems like the most straightforward way to

(A) Get rid of the blocks and get a real lift in the back
(B) Reduce the axle wrap and thus the shudder with the stiffer springs.

Any thoughts on this would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Chris

 

It could also be the torque converter. The 2nd gen is know for this shudder at take off and the second shift at 15-25mph. I have a 2” block and zero shudder after replacing the bad tc.

 

If it was a TC issue, it should do it when the car is Drive but not in 4, correct?
Mine does it in all trans selector positions.

 

Yes, the shudder is much more prevalent in D, and will also go away if you tap the brake in D.

Your issue sounds like driveline angles. The stock leafs are weak. And the blocks only help make axle wrap worse. Some trucks are much worse than others.

I’d have a look at your driveline angle.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/drive-shaft-vibrations-solved-step-by-step.244535/

 

I drove home today and tested a few things. Here's what I found

Shudder is always around 5mph regardless of shifter position

Shudder is worse accelerating hard or starting up a hill.

Still shudders accelerating with brake pressed enough to actuate the tail lights. (Not easy to do)

Shudder goes away in 4wd

Based on this, I think that it has to be axle wrap

 

Based on that, it does NOT sound like the Transmission.
I can’t say it’s axle wrap, as driveline angles will cause a shake/shudder too.
As will axle wrap.

I think you have a combination of the 2 which is making your problem “worse”.

 

I agree.

I think that the springs deform and create the driveline vibration because the pinion angle changes.

The shudder is only momentary and once the springs go back to their original shape it's gone.

This was why I thought that changing the leafs might be the way to go.

I read much of that post about the driveline angles. What I got from it was to match the pinion angle to the TC output shaft and then shim the carrier such that there is about 1 degree at the middle u joint between the two shafts.

It seems like this with the heavier springs might be a good place to start. I wanted to ditch the blocks anyway.

 

100% axle wrap which is being worsened by increased leverage on the block.

Stiffer full leafpack replacment is about your only option and even then good luck.


The "shudder" from earlier tacomas was the lockup clutch in the torque converter, what you describe is not it. Also taking off from a dead stop in D or 4.... or 3... or 2.... or 1. wont change the fact that the trans from a stop will always take off in 1st (and will always have the same shift points).

 

FWIW: I believe there have been posts here over time that also document a center carrier bearing that can also cause a shudder on initial take off from a stop, and has been cured by a new one or better bushings.

I have a barely detectable, slight shudder on initial takeoff (light/moderate or heavy pedal application) (a little more pronounced when it's floored) that never occurs otherwise once the truck is underway.

 

I had shudder on take off for a long time.
New leaf springs from recall didn't help it

Drive shaft center bearing was ok but the rubber was weak with age and sagged down to the side some
New one cured most of it and a trans dump n fill helped with the 45 mph shudder

 

Thanks for the replies.

The carrier bearing and U joints are new Spicer parts.

Anyway, I ordered the Icon RTX leaf pack from 4wheelparts along with the 2.5 degree shims. I have the carrier bearing shims as well so I should have what I need to try to get the driveline angles dialed in.
As measured currently the pinion is about 4 degrees up relative to the transfer case. This is somewhat confusing because the blocks are only tapered 2 degrees. (skinny side facing forward)


https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/2016-...AsGAcM0zh9gj4zEBn1AaAoDREALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


I planned to do option 2 with the springs which I'm hoping will give about the same lift as the blocks which are 2". Icon claims 2.25" for a double cab. My truck is an access cab so I'm not sure if there will be any difference. Any experiences with option 2 vs option 1?


https://www.4wheelparts.com/sku/ICON Vehicle Dynamics/standard/I51101_REVC.pdf




I was also looking at getting shocks. (just the rear for now). I was looking at these

https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-ims59-50940-monotube-ifp-rear-shocks-for-tacoma/

The compressed length is close to the 14" of the Bilstein 5100s that everyone is using with about an inch more extension. Is it better to wait to get the springs in to check the droop dimensions with the stock shocks before ordering or has anyone used these shocks with a similar setup?

Again,
Thanks for all of the feedback
Chris

 

The website TNShooter provided will probably help the most.
I've been out of touch on the latest info for driveline shudder, but something to consider is the use of double cardan joints on the driveshaft. Some had their stock ones redone or just bought new ones with them. Seemed like this had some promising results without going through the shimming.

I also have a 2014. My driveline shudder started with my AAL's. I upgraded to RXT leafs in the back and I still had driveline shudder on takeoff only. The Tom Wood single driveshaft completely solved the shudder for me, but it's no longer an offering by Tom Woods.

I tried carrier bearing drops of varying thickness, but it just relocated the vibes to a different speed.

Anyway, I hope you find a workable solution.

 

Thanks Musubi.

The Woods single piece driveshaft had the double cardan at the transfer case, correct?

The modified stock ones replace the center joint with the double cardan, right?

It seems like it has worked for a lot of folks. I would consider doing it.

I'll see what I get with the springs. If nothing else, I got rid of the blocks.

Which option did you do with the springs? Was your lift close to what Icon says it should be?