Tampa Bay Area Tacomas BS Thread

only if you've got more money than gawd.

 

Called mine and mill, 67 bucks for a 24' stick of 2x2 3/16 wall. Not bad. So 140 for the frame part need close ton 40' of tube then need a top and wheels.

 

just need credit

 

It's actually a whole different set of problems if you've got more cash than you know what to do with. Look at Tim Cameron...he finishes his rigs (which run about $80k a pop, from what I've read), but then he only wheels them for a year or two and then builds a whole new one.

 

Harbor freight for the wheels. I got whatever heavier duty ones they had. The plate to the top is what's gonna get yea on $$$ depending on thickness

 

Not looking forward to that part. Going to call a piece of metal. Bought most of my metal from them. She is usually good to me

 

Yea ive dealt with her multiple times, I like that place. Just sucks cause they have such shitty hours and are always closed by the time I get off work

 

Does anyone have a roofer or roofing company they can recommend? Good ole tropical storm Colin showed us our first leak.

 

The guy that did ours did a pretty good job. Can't think of the name of the company off hand, but I'll see if I can find out in a bit.

If it's not that big a spot, you could probably fix it yer self...especially if it's just a nail or two that has backed out. That can be fixed with a tube of roofing adhesive/sealant and a caulking gun. I'm assuming it's an asphalt shingle roof. If it isn't then a pro might be the way to go.

 

It is asphalt shingle roof, thanks for the tip! I'll have to take a look. In the market for a ladder now lol

 

If it's a nail they can be hard to see sometimes, but they'll work their way loose and will actually come up through the tab of the shingle above it. Just have to lift the tab, hammer the nail back in and put a blob of that roofing adhesive over and around the head before pressing the top tab back down over it. Make sure the hole the nail left in it is sealed up good.

If it's a soft spot in the deck and it's not too big--i.e. you only have to strip up two or three rows of shingles around the problem area--it'd be a lot cheaper to fix it yourself. If you're careful and the shingles are in fair shape, you might not even have to by new ones...just have to by some decking material, some adhesive, a small box of roofing nails, and some felt. However if the soft spot in near a valley, it could turn into a hassle and it might be worth it to have a pro deal with it.

I'd be willing to show you the ropes if you like, but I'll tell you up front being on a hot roof in June is going to kick my ass so I might just be there in an advisory capacity once it starts heating up.

Come to think of it, I still have a good sized piece of the plywood decking they used to fix the rotten spots in our deck when they did the roof last year. You're welcome to it.

 

Sweet thanks Lee! I'll have to get with you once I go up and scope it out

 

You should probably still get your own, but I have a 16' extension ladder I could loan you if you wanna come get it.

 

Try these guys. When I got prices they were cheaper than any others by 1-2k. If you decide to have your whole roof replaced go with gaf shingles and opt for the secondary water barrier underneath. Both will be a discount on your homeowners ins.

http://www.no1homeroofing.com/

 

Question for Lee, a while back you were talking about drum brakes and disc brakes and stuff. Anywho, do you think its worth it to swap my current drum rears onto a new better axle, or spring for discs. Trying to save where I can and dynatrac is giving me the option to keep the stock rears.

 

Well...I think the big thing is whether you still want a parking/E brake or not. From what I've read...which admittedly could be wrong...most rear disc brake conversions don't provide for an E brake. Then it's a question about how much other stuff you want to change. I think most of the time, converting to rear discs require you to use a different M/C and proportioning valve, which might mean modifying the plumbing to connect everything.

Since I think you're an automatic, you might could live without the E brake, and the improved rear brake performance, especially in wet conditions, is a a fine motivation to deal with the rest of the installation.

As a manual, I couldn't live without some kind of E brake, even if it was just a line lock. My recommendation would be to investigate what else you'd have to do to run rear discs and how much it will cost, then decide from there whether getting the axle with discs already on it vs converting it later on is worth it...i.e.: if I'm wrong and you don't have to change anything else to make it work, then sure, go for it. You can always add a line lock later to use an an e-brake if you wanted. Otherwise, it depends on how much time and money you want to spend to make the new axle work.

That's my $.02. Some mileage may vary.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm half asleep on this night shift so I forgot to add a few things. I'm gonna be giving up the ebrake with this swap either way. I also don't need to swap an MC for discs as far as I've read.

One of my main things for swapping to discs is that when I look inside a drum brake it looks like a jigsaw puzzle from hell to me. Lol

Also keeping my drums would save some money.

 

Meh, drums are a PITA for sure. They do tend to be overly complex (except for air brakes which are relatively simple and easy to work on), but they aren't really much of a brain teaser as they look if you take a few steps to make sure you put them back together right. Since the advent of the digital camera, I usually take a few pictures of them after I take the drums off but before I take the innards apart, that way I can make sure I can figure out where everything goes on reassembly. It's the stupid springs that tend to fight you and make the job unpleasant.

By comparison, dealing with disc brakes is a breeze...plus they just work better, especially when wet and they never need to be adjusted. I still don't understand why the manufacturers even bother with the overly complex drum brake setup anymore and I was pretty disappointed that the 3rd Gens didn't go to discs in the rear.

As far as the money, it's your call on how much it's worth to you, but I can't think of a single advantage drums have over discs except maybe the brake linings and wheel cylinders are maybe a little cheaper to replace if needed.

Out of curiosity, why would you be losing your ebrake if you when with your stock drum brakes on the new axle?

 

Might just bite the bullet and go with the discs then. I miss my 4Runner cause it had discs all around.

I'd be losing the ebrake due to going with a full width axle. My ebrake lines are already stretching pretty hard at full droop and to be honest I'm starting to think they're acting as limit straps.

 

Okay. Yeah, I wasn't thinking about the full-width factor. On mine, I could probably just have a longer cable made fairly cheaply for the drivers side and it'd all be good, but I know the 2nd Gen setup is a little different.