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Tapping Dash Lights

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by The Boat Oar, Dec 6, 2017.

  1. Dec 16, 2020 at 9:27 PM
    #41
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Any switch that dims should have the wires. You can either tap locally to each bank of new switches or run the independent leds and ground off of a single set of taps and run a wire pair to each bank. My center console switch leds are fed by the AC control g&g/w but the left side switches tap a switch already there.
     
  2. Dec 16, 2020 at 9:31 PM
    #42
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    You don’t need to fuse them but if you choose to anyway then an inline fuse is the only option. Making those fuses readily accessible would be the main problem. That might argue for using a left side tap so the fuses could be accessed via the fuse cove cubby.
     
    SR-71A[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Dec 17, 2020 at 4:50 PM
    #43
    SR-71A

    SR-71A Define "Well-Known Member"

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    Cool thanks for the info. Thats what I figured, but couldn't tell for sure. That was my plan, tap the nearest switch and then daisy chain the assembly from there. Ive got 2 in-line fuse holders somewhere so Ill just add them between the independent LEDs

    This is what I got in mind at this point. The on-off-on switches for the winch is going to be the interesting part. Added the two diodes to avoid feeding back and energizing both outputs at the same time. We'll see how that goes lol
    upload_2020-12-17_19-30-27.jpg
     
  4. Dec 17, 2020 at 5:38 PM
    #44
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    I know you can use ganged 5-pin relays to make a spdt switch able to reverse high currents but don’t much about winches though other than fat/short cables.
     
  5. Dec 17, 2020 at 5:55 PM
    #45
    SR-71A

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    Yeah these are all going to be "low" power, sub 10 amp, control wires. Im splicing into the factory solenoid on the bumper for in/out, and the on/off will be located somewhere up there as well.
     
  6. Dec 17, 2020 at 7:08 PM
    #46
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
  7. Dec 18, 2020 at 9:35 PM
    #47
    DaveB.inVa

    DaveB.inVa Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I'm a little late, but bagleboy has it. He's right about fusing, it's actually already there from the factory. I'm just particular about when I add anything to the vehicles wiring and typically fuse it at a lower value than the factory wiring so that if I have a fault on my end that my fuse should operate first. I put my wiring in loom and stuff too, but it's personal preference.

    One place I would insist anyone fuse is if they tap directly off the battery for something. You absolutely should install a fuse within a few inches of the battery. I don't like the automatic circuit breakers either, they're a bimetallic strip that when it gets hot will open up and close when it cools. It's just a way to melt wiring on an on and off basis if you have a fault downstream.

    I've worked in electricity since just after high school, was an electrician for about 5 years with commercial and industrial experience and worked as an electrical engineer since 2006 serving power generation and distribution in a large chemical facility. Fuses and such are part of my life.
     
  8. Apr 16, 2021 at 9:46 AM
    #48
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Snug top Rebel, Thule tracks, ditch tracks, Bagged rear suspension, F/R anytime camera, intermittent wiper switch...
    From member Havoc on tapping the dash lights from junctions #2 &3.
    There are two junction blocks (J2, J3) where the power and ground side of the illumination circuit are.
    I bought two terminal repair wires and used an empty slot in each to get my switches to light
    Part number for the terminal/wire
    82998-24380 or 82998-12340
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
    SR-71A likes this.

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