Tapping in to High Beam Switch

Nice, that's exactly what I'm trying to accomplish. I haven't heard of using low volt disconnects, i'll have to check that out.

I'm pretty novice at this, so bare with me... I've got my ditch lights and light bar wired to individual switches. Like the majority of everyone else here, I want them to come on when my high beams are engaged, but also have the ability to control my ditch and light bar independently.

My question is how do I wire the relays and cab switches for this?

 

Thanks that diagram helps a lot and I'm going to try this next. I'll send some photos as well to help illustrate where I'm at in the process.

How would your diagram change though if you add another 3-way switch for a light bar and the relay that it came with? For the record I bought both 2 and 3 toggle switches as I wasn't sure which option I would need. I also have diodes in case I needed them as well.

I've got 2 switches wired independently of one another (1 light bar and 1 for ditch). Both have their own relay and wiring harness that I poked through the firewall. My biggest question is after I installed the add-a-fuse to the high beams, does it matter which relay (light bar or ditch) I tap into?

I've also got a random (and probably basic) question regarding what to do with the black ground wires in general. I understand what ground means, but I've seen a good amount of wiring diagrams done by others that will either have each switch grounded individually, or they wire the grounds from both switches together? But by wiring both grounds from 2 switches together, this leaves one or technically both harnesses vacant? So then do you ground both harnesses or splice them to the then connected switches?

 

I tried to do something like this, I wanted my light bar to come on when I hit the horns, and I achieved that however I inadvertently also made it so when the light bar was switched on the horns wouldn't stop.



Didn't have a one way diode, tried using a LED as such but apparently there was enough current to back feed through it as well as there's some issues with the light bar being switched positive and the horns being switched negative or something.

Ended up just giving up on the idea and leaving the systems separate.

 

You could solve this with a relay too. Just have the high current side of the closed relay switch the lights on and connect the relay coil to your horn circuit. It will properly 'relay' the signal without providing a reverse signal path.

 

High Beam tapped at the Steering Stalk Light switch. (ground) Flash & High Beam, diode required. SPDT switch optional. T harness available for purchase so no wire cutting the OEM harness and only one wire enters the cab.

 

Okay that's what I thought, so still connect the black wire from switch to wire harnesses then.

 

If you have 2 ground wires provided by 2 harnesses you might as well use both of them. If they truly go to ground I would connect both switch grounds at the switches, then connect both harness grounds one per switch, then ground the other end of both harnesses. The underlying goal here is to pass your current over as much wire as you have available to it... why not and could help things.

 

I'll double check the fuses. Can you elaborate on the last 2 sentences? Does the high beam fuse tap run directly to my light bar relay trigger, switch, or to my battery (+ on fuse block)?

Then whichever wire is correct, splice that one to the other trigger pin on my 2nd relay (ditch lights in my case). Do I have that correct?

 

Why can't we just go back to the floor board switches. On could have added an extra fairly easy.