Tapping stock fuel tank for accessories/utility motors

Too late, looks like he already ruined his sock.

 

That's what I was afraid you'd say. Honestly, I don't know if what you propose is even possible if the pressure washer is going to be bed mounted. A lot of small engines don't even have fuel pumps. They rely on the tank being mounted above the carburetor to gravity flow gas. Is that the configuration you're considering? Having the pressure washer in the bed?

Phil

 

Haha, I thought I was losing it the other day! I had to wait and stare at it, the delay is even more awkward.

 

I’ll be using either a gx690, iGX700, or a similarly sized Kohler. All of them come with on-board fuel pumps, and have a decent amount of lift for pulling from an auxiliary tank.

 

My Ford Transit fuel tank had an aux port. What was a good idea is it only fed if you had at least 6 gallons in the tank. It kept you from running the tank dry and getting stranded.

I'd talk to your fab guy. Most of the old-time radiator rebuild and fuel tank places seem to have disappeared over the years.

I wonder if you could order this tank, with a 1/4" aux port adapter? Pricey item, but maybe one solution.

https://exitoffroad.com/product/toyota-tacoma-long-range-replacement-fuel-tank-32gal/

 

I vote aux tank as well. if you have to use truck tank, get a replacement gas cap and drill a hole big enough to feed the PW fuel line through it. Then all you have to do is switch caps to PW.

 

Know anyone that can weld? Build a tank that will fit around the stuff on your bed.

 

I reached out to a mechanic friend who is also a fellow 3rd gen owner. He actually likes my idea. This was his feedback on the emissions/evap system:

 

"It's just looking for leaks" is the whole point though and why some of us are against the idea of using the trucks tank to run a pump lol. I just can't see how it's not easier and less troublesome to plop down a 10g cell and call it beer thirty.

 

I guess I’m a sucker for doing things just to see if I can

... and I think my buddy might be cut from the same cloth

 

https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/b16ebab5-98d7-4c80-9178-c7fa2965686f

 

Best idea yet. Or tap the filler neck with a tube that stops short of the bottom of the tank but personally I don’t see that risk as being worth the benefit.

 

Auxiliary Fuel Tank (Spare Tire Area) Parts and Build Ideas
https://www.trailedonline.com/product-page/spare-tire-auxiliary-tank

 

Could install one of these, that will give you enough fuel capacity .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/long-range-automotive-fuel-tank-update.581790/

 

I don't see why you can't install a bulkhead fitting, a pickup tube and a shutoff valve into the tank. Drop the tank and remove the fuel pump assy. Drill a hole for the bulkhead fitting next to the fuel pump access hole. As long as you have a shut off valve, there is no tank pressure problems.

 

too rich for my blood, but that would be pretty sweet.

I just realized, there’s a bit of irony here: half a dozen or more members have cautioned me against screwing around with the sensitive fuel system on my truck, when there are a ton of guys driving around with an entirely aftermarket tank assembly. All’s I wanna do is drill a little bitty hole and run a line through it (with an appropriate bulkhead fitting and gasket)


(weird side tangent: how does a fab shop ever go about securing liability insurance for building aftermarket fuel tanks? Their premium’s got to be murder.)

so, without the shutoff valve, are you thinking that the bit of pressure in the tank might overcome the fuel pump on the machine somehow, and cause it to sense a “leak”? Just curious as to where you think there might be an issue between tank and machine.

But a valve is definitely a great suggestion, and a cheap failsafe. If for some reason I ever threw a code or worse, I could close that valve and probably eliminate whatever issue I had caused. Assuming I didn’t spring a leak in the bulkhead itself.

Tl;dr: Imma gonna go for it, dudes. Thanks for all the cautionary messages and common sense (no sarcasm). Hopefully I don’t wind up making the headlines...

 

Your pump will want to pull fuel so it may not hold against pressure. Aftermarket tank assemblies are designed as such to work as auxiliary or replacements but your itty bitty fuel line isn’t part of any design. That’s where it becomes a big IF. Yeah, try and avoid any Darwin awards.

 

This is my thought as well. Seems like it may throw the evap system off if by tapping the system is no longer sealed.

 

So, did you do it?

 

I’m waiting on the machine to arrive. But I’m gonna go for it.

I ordered a replacement retaining ring for the fuel pump/sending unit. After watching some videos, it seems the easiest way to get that assembly apart is to just cut the ring carefully and split it with a chisel or screwdriver.

there’s a nice round flat spot in the top of the sending unit; I think that’s where I’ll drill the hole for the new pickup line. The fuel pump assy would be cheaper to replace than the entire tank, should the worst happen.

I will keep this thread updated. Any tips or tricks for dealing with the tank and sending unit are welcome.