Temperature Gauge not working

Sounds like the right sequence. Start with the cheap or easy stuff first.

 

My gauge goes right to the middle whenever I key on ignition and stays there until I turn it off. Replaced sensor and it didn't change anything. I've monitored the temp through the ECU and it always runs perfect, especially since replacing thermostat and pump. Figured it is probably a bad connection on the dash cluster and probably not worth the effort.

 

Replaced thermostat and the front sending sensor today, tried to get the back one off and didn’t have right extension it was a pain just to get unhooked but found it was easier to unhook from the driver side then remove the two brackets holding some hoses to be able to squeeze behind and was able to get socket over it but the wrench wouldn’t fit down and had no room to rotate wrench. Going to try to get pivotal extension and finish tomorrow. Was hoping the thermostat and sender would fix my problem but looks like it’s going to be rear sensor or gauge issue.

 

Just to be sure your read my post on the 1st page. If you have a dash indication problem only and the engine temperature reported by ODB2 reader is OK there is no need to mess with the rear sensor. The rear sensor is used ONLY by ECU to read engine temperature for proper mixture control. The dash temperature indicator is connected directly to the front sensor and nothing else. If the dash indication is still wrong after replacing the front sensor you have either wiring issue (connectors or wires itself) or the instrument cluster issue (electrical or mechanical).

So the bottom line is if you do not have a problem with the temperature reported to ECU (easy to see in live data) and you don;t have any mechanical problem with the rear sensor (like broken connector, coolant leak etc.) just leave it alone. Don't fix what is not broken.

 

I did not see that but I will try to get it over to auto store to see if they can read the Temp for me with their scanner , when I stoped by autozone the other day it was not showing any temp codes. Here is a picture of the sending sensor there are some wires showing so I’m going to try to splice wire and bandage up the best I can and see if this works before having to take it to a shop

 

Shrink wrapped wire and tested connection and have a faulty sending unit sensor or bad gauge cluster. Going to have to buy a decent scanner that can give live data to see what temp it is actually running or go swap this new sensor and see if it is faulty. Don’t think it is faulty gauge if it is getting movement ? Anyone had this problem before?

 

You won't get codes.

That single wire plug is simply telling your needle where to point and is not a real indicator as to how hot your engine coolant temps are.

These engines have both a sensor, and a sender.

The one that communicates with the ECM will either be a 2 or 3 wire plug, and tells your ECM when it should be in open/closed loop and what your coolant temps are. This is also where you gather your temp information when you plug in a scan tool on your OBD port.

 

What do you think I should try and replace the sending unit sensor again the single wire one?

 

Ignore dash gauge temps.

Run a monitoring system IE Ultragauge or Scangauge and enjoy life.

 

That has been a thought i think I will run a aftermarket temp gauge or obd app/scanner if it is cluster problem much quicker fix that way. But still stumped and want to try to fix the original if possible. Just live about an hour away from the closest dealer and the front temp sensor for the gauge should have fixed the problem. If it was a bad cluster would the needle be dead and not move at all? Also if it is actually overheating doesn’t a red oil looking light come on the dash or the other yellow maintenance light come on?

 

i have this issue and it’s kind of annoying. After idle for a bit I pound the dash and it jumps lol I’m planning to get one of the obd2 clusters that reads the temp. Kinda pricey tho 200+ bucks for a decent one

 

thinking of getting this device for my 95. Sometimes the gauge drops below the L line. Once it idles for about 5 minutes I have to tap the cluster or bang the dash for it to wake up. Then goes to the middle. It’s rather annoying and don’t trust it. Is this device accurate? Do you leave in your obd2 at all times?

 

I use the "heat" gauge

once I detect warmer temps I tap on the cluster and it moves slightly. Once it starts to move there is no issue

it should start out below L as it's cold

 

Just leave it plugged in

And it's as accurate as the actual sensor that's on your motor; that's where it gathers its information from