The 2.7L Single Cab Thread

Harsher shifts, harder to get into 1st and reverse. Sometimes even grinds a little when it's really cold out.

 

I have never experienced this power cut on my 2013 and bounce it off the rev limiter probably more than I should. Curious if something changed with the 2.5 gen

 

I didn’t notice any difference with the MT90 vs. stock in mine.

 

I sure noticed the difference after MT90, highly recommend it. Matter of fact, mine's due for a change.

 

Might be a fuel system thing if it's fairly consistent. A fuel cut will drop power immediately as well.

I'm not sure what the traction control is like on some of these models but if it's super consistent at a very specific rpm it might be a speed sensor that is having problems.

Some e36 bmw people would try and disconnect the stock ASC traction control, do it wrong, and it'd mess up the ABS system function in hard breaking situations. Odd things can happen when sensors aren't feeding the right signals to the ecu.

 

My 97 2.7 5spd regular cab with 250k miles. Still runs strong regardless, even if it slow...

 

Best front end ever.

 

I drooled over the ARB on other trucks for months before pulling the trigger. Makes me happy every time I walk out to it. KC lights are the cherry on top.

 

The bumper looks good too, but I was actually talking about the grille. The 95.5 to 97 has the best grille ever.

 

Good thoughts.

I do have the "Yellow Wire Mod" for TRAC in 4LO, but I don't think that would affect it since that is just the 4LO signal to ECU. Also, I don't have any dash lights on and ABS and traction functions 100% as expected.

I tried to activate this cutoff again over the weekend. Even with pretty sporty shifts (as sporty as a turtle can be) right at 5,500 redline, I could not get it to cut off on me.

One of my theories was that the flywheel continues to accelerate even after letting off the throttle, and if you're close to redline then the inertia would send you above redline and the ECU would cut you off. Shifting spiritedly right at redline without getting cut off seems to null that idea.

 

Here's a couple of mine.

 

Salvage title auction win for 3.5k in July of 2020 with 130k miles on it.

Knew a guy with a frame puller, pulled the rear end straight for $100.

Some cosmetic upgrades later, here we are! Hoping to get some dents and body rust out soon and get a small lift eventually this year. Then also get a softopper.

 

What lifts do you guys suggest for these? I'm looking for something subtle that makes a difference. I do not want to have to change anything in the driveline so I am trying to keep that in mind

 

I'd go Bilstein 5100s on like the first notch for the spring perch. Gives it a bit of a leveled look and doesn't break the bank too much. You shouldn't need new upper control arms or anything like that.

 

Ditto,
Purchased a salvage title 05 w/ 103k on the clock for $5700 plus their outrageous fees! At the time you couldn’t see any vehicles in person and the salvage yard was very clever on the camera angles at which photos were taken. Then between the time of the photos and when I picked up the truck it looked like they carried a vehicle with leaking brake fluid over the truck making the need to respray the top of the fenders & hood. The first two photos below were after about 45 minutes of shoe hammering to get the tailgate to open. The trailer hitch took the blunt of the hit. Then after the repairs were completed with all new sheet metal and a $h!t load of new parts plus all the maintenance the previous owner didn’t do. I discovered why it was most likely hit from the rear. The brake light switch was out! I completely pulled out the interior as it was trashed and spent many days in the engine bay and undercarriage cleaning. I then found an unmolested mint condition white 07 w/27k on the clock and jumped on a red eye to grab it. I then flipped the 05 for full high book in less than 48 hrs.

 

Wow yours looked great after all the work. Im wondering how much paint and body work will run me..

 

The new factory bedside (I didn’t want any body filler) was almost $7 bill’s and the new tailgate skin was almost $230 but it was aftermarket. I sold the old bedside for $200. Be very careful on purchasing aftermarket tailgate skins because some are completely junk and don’t fit for crap! It’s even worse for the plastic tailgate cap! The first one I purchased was over 3/4” to short and wouldn’t fit! I couldn’t find an aftermarket bedside. Again be very careful on aftermarket body parts some are completely trash as they don’t fit for $h!t! The rear & front bumper were also aftermarket. It took a long time to get the front bumper to fit w/ reasonable results. Unless you have a Reputable parts supplier purchase from Amazon and READ the reviews on fitment plus make sure the part is returnable if it doesn’t fit. You will have a short window for returns. Oh the 07 I purchased was from NC with some light surface rust on some engine bay and undercarriage parts, nuts & bolts.

Good luck!

 

Im new to the whole lift idea, so that would that just technically be a better leveling kit than just a spacer? However if I wanted a overall lift of some sort to fit beefier tires, what would be the best route?

 

Just an FYI,
With unequal length A arms you’re only going to be able to only lift or drop the front ride hight about 1.75”. Well that’s all you can get when dropping to keep the alignment within specs not sure about lifting. Plus when you start going up in tire size it kills what little pep & fuel economy you have now! Plus the five lug truck has a crash box (black box as it’s called here) behind the front fender liner will need to come out with larger tires. It’s a good idea to loosen or move the rear of the front fender liner out. Why because you will be shocked on how much dirt, leafs and crap gets stuck in there! And being you’re in NC and it’s damp there this will help to cause rust.
Depending on the trans you have used / take out third members can be found fairly cheap. I up size my rubber from the stock 26.8” to 28.6” and per the charts I should have gone from the 3.31 to 3.58 to keep the gearing stock but I wanted a little more pep so I went to 3.73 gear. OMG it only runs about 150 more RPM’s at freeway speed but what a difference plus believe it or not I’m getting better gas mileage.
Per a Toyota engineer “Toyota in a controlled environment has to test their vehicles for the EPA. At slower RPM’s a vehicle will put out less emissions. So we at Toyota will gear a vehicle so the motor/engine is turning as slow as it can and still be drivable”.
I ask are you just kidding me? He said no why would I do that? I became friends with this gentleman and text him every so often to see how he’s doing in retirement. His sister lives about 3 miles from us.
He’s really helped me a few times and is very knowledgeable about Toyota’s!

 

Interesting okay. So what you're saying to have the least amount of effort of fab and what not, 1.75 on the front aka a set of Bilstein 5100s is the best route? Then what to the rear? Or is level at that point. Also I do not want super huge tires, just something a little wider than what it has now. Just looks weird in my eyes.