The 35” Tire Photo & Discussion Thread

CMC?

Any rubbing on full lock?

Thx

 

yes cmc

no rubbing at full lock even with 3/4 inch spacer

 

So I went up from 33’s to 35’s. Had my alignment done a couple months ago and having it done tomorrow. Have cab mount relocate, taco tabs pushing caster all the way forward, and also spc uppers with some positive caster. I’m running methods 17x 9.5 -12, with geolander x-at 35x12.5. My issue is my camber and upper control arms while turning right. I’m gonna have them push it out for more positive camber…how much is too much positive camber? With my alignment on 33’s, my spc are pretty far inward, so I can push it out a lot.

 

I am not an alignment pro, but can’t you pull the ball joint further out to add positive camber from the UCA, and then correct it by using the stock camber adjustments where the LCA mounts to the frame to add negative camber to bring it back to 0?

 

I’m running taco tabs, having the front pushed towards the engine and the rear toward the outside for max caster

 

Personally I would keep the camber at 0 even if it requires more cutting. Cut once cry once, especially when the tires are super expensive

 

I can’t cut anything, I’ve already had cab mount relocate and if I keep at 0, it hits my upper…I may need to look for new wheels

 

315/75r16

 

I am getting mentally prepped for new tires and realizing that I cant find a skinny (~11.5') for a 16" wheel-- seems so odd that 17" wheels have 5x the choices.

Trimming my fenders this weekend and going to try and fab some new liners. I have a "thin metal" blade on my jig saw in hopes that it keeps the cut cleaner than an angle grinder. I also have a dremel for the flares-- but I feel like the jig saw will be the way to go. Any preferred tools of the trade from the guys who have already done it? or maybe just as important, any tools you would NOT use again?

Time to hunt down some ABS plastic sheet for the liners...

 

Definitely jigsaw with a little pressure so its not jumping. Tape where the baseplate will be gliding over the fender so you’re not dragging metal shards over your paint if you care. I used a jig on the flares too. Scroll blade on the flare and metal or carbide on fender worked pretty well

 

Any recs on low weight, preferably C load?

Looking at either KO2s or Toyo Open Country AT3.

 

Just go to 37 x 12.5 x 16
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ict-rxm-31

 

I've been itching to jump to 37s. I am redoing my suspension this winter and would like to go up a tire size. I don't wheel like I used to (priorities have changed) but would still like to know if its achievable. I have adjustable uca's to move the caster forward, away from the cab and will be purchasing some Solo Motorsports lca's that move the ball joint forward an inch. I have an aftermarket bumper so no rubbing up front. Also, upgrading my steering rack to a tundra rack from Toyo-sterring. Unless I go out and wheel, I could see the top of the wheel making contact with the top of the wheel well.

Are there any other concerns to worry about going up to 37s?

Sorry for the post, I'd be more than happy to take it to the dm's if someone has any tips or suggestions.

 

My best guess is JD fab lower pivot sub frame as well as their inner fender well mod. Oh and bigger brakes

 

I rub everywhere on 35s now. I have trimmed fenders, bmc, spc uca and demello front bumper. I rub the uca slightly on full droop, the body mount and frame on full turn and the upper fender well on full bump even with afermarket bumps.

 

Forgot about brakes. Adding that to list.

I pretty much have the same as you minus the bumper, I have a C4. same thing either way. I do slightly rub the frame on full turns as well. Curious if there's anyone that has gone with the Solo Motorsports lca's and if it helped with clearance.

Appreciate the feed back.

 

Hey guys! Figured I would contribute to this thread. I recently purchased @mjp2 long travel class 7s race truck/prerunner. First mods were new wheels method MR304 and toyo 35x11.5R17 load C. When I bought the truck it was outfitted with KM2 33x12.5s. I borrowed a set of falken AT3 35x12.5 load E from a friend to check fitment. Acceleration reduction due to the heavier 35s was very noticeable right off the bat. For unsprung weight savings, I decided to go 11.5 wide which is a good compromise between super skinny 255/80r17 and traditional 35x12.5r17.

Toyos measure exactly 290mm mounted on a 8.5 wheel.

 

Yup! Registered, insured and moving under its own power.