The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

Well sob, my order didn’t go thru fast enough, with the high demand.
Nitro’s 5.29s are on back order until late sept. Called ECGS, they had the rear but no fronts ;(

 

I installed my 4:88s 2 weeks ago. All I need to say is buy the damn gears. Pick a ratio and go! It’s a whole different truck. Drives like it should have from the beginning. I chose the 4:88 for several reasons, 255/85/16 tires, no huge bumpers. Just a camper shell, recovery gear and the freeway speeds over 80 here in southern Idaho. We loaded the flycraft on the roof and drove up to one of the lakes and it handles the grades loaded like it was nothing. Best bang for the buck on any mod I’ve done.

 

I’m going to attempt to send my diff cores back to ECGS by the end of this week. (I have until end of this month) I’m sure there is a waiting list for them.

 

Do the ECGS front clamshells come with the needle bearing replacement bushing or is that what the $45 “CV Bushing” option is?

 

Thats what the $45 option is. If you have it already, you will get credited back accordingly when you return your core.

 

Found this the other day and i know there is discussions back and forth on what gears to get. this dude explains it quite simply and provides a method on how to pick your gears. Tried it with a couple of guys and based on what they have or what gears they intend to have the formula was pretty good. Now you may ask well i have X amount of weight on top of changing tire size well then you consider the next higher gear if that was the case. Based on the math i should have 4.4 with 35s so 4.56 makes sense but aftermarket for 3rd gen is either 4.88 or 5.29, so 4.88 would be the logical choice taking in to consideration whatever weight i may have. Ill stop blabbing but wanted to share my input. Any feedback is welcome

https://youtu.be/oDVpyhKEbaw

 

I support it!

 

Ah perfect then! Thx for the info

 

His formula gives you a good baseline to reference, however, one thing to keep in mind is the ridiculously low overdrive the automatic 3rd gen has. Double overdrive for that matter (both 5th and 6th gear are over driven.) There are a handful of guys on here that I know of running 4.88s on stock or +1 size tires (265/75/r16). Just some food for thought.

IMO, you will be much better off with 5.29 gearing for true 35s than 4.88.

 

I agree with what you said about the overdrive its shit. This is me thinking out loud and i appreciate your feedback. is it the 5.29 to compensate for overdrive i.e. highway ride? I am looking to improve off road performance and i know that 5.29 will perform better based on.numbers and the fact its a higher gear but wouldnt the concern being overgeared? or the difference from the 4.88 isnt that significant.

Or you are implying that the 5.29 overall on and off will improve both?

 

I’m wondering about this as well. Anyone running 5.29’s do any towing in 5th gear on highway at 55~65 uphill? What are your tranny temps? Is it safe?

 

All the numbers revolve around math right, ratios, rpms, tire size etc. So his formula is basically the same thing as any traditional gear ratio chart for tire sizes. A 30.5" stock tire on a Tacoma has an ideal gear ratio of 3.90, moving to a 35 it says 4.56.

The problem with these numbers is that its completely irrelevant. Why? Because this isnt the 1970s where we are driving 4 speed transmissions. Those numbers are based entirely off of a 1:1 transmission ratio. No one drives a 4 speed truck. Example: One of the most popular Jeep transmission conversions is the legendary GM SM465 whihc is compact, easy to find, bullet proof, has a super low range first gear of 6.55:1 and has FOUR speeds used in GM trucks for 30 years.

Gear ratio charts are relevant to Jeeps that have a maximum of 4 gears because how it performs depends on that gearing. Our trucks have two overdrive gears, you could run a 6.xx:1 or 7.xx:1 diff ratio if they even made one because of our overdrive gears. This is why gearing lower is preferred.

 

thanks for the explanation and the insight on that. I thought that would technically apply in general as a benchmark sort of ball park. but i get what you are saying

 

Reporting back on the gear whining issue... change Out gear oil today in hopes to make it better. When I removed the plug I’ve noticed pretty sizable metal peels on the magnet. I think these are done ? Mind you this is just after 2000 miles on 5.29s professionally installed. And of course shop is little help to none. Apparently nitro will not cover labor and maybe cover parts. Shop is basically blaming either the oil or break-in they’d have to send the gears back to nitro to determine if this could be warranted by them. Shop did the initial brake in though and made me stop 10 times on the way home for next 300 miles. Guy pretty much said they did everything right and there was no noise when the test drove the truck. So looks like I’m screwed.

 

Wow so when I changed my oil around 500-800 miles there was almost do debris or anything, only some minor sludge on the magnet. They jacked up the install.

 

Yeah that’s why I’m thinking these are dead with this much metal flaking I don’t trust them.

 

I just got mine put in. I was told, dont go over 45 mph, dont stay at a constant speed for more than 5 minutes, go really easy on her. Every 15 miles, pull over and wait for 30 minutes till they cool, then you can start again. Do this heat cycle for the first 45 miles. Then, take it easy (no heavy acceleration, no constant speed) change oil at 500. Then you will be gtg.

 

Anyone have recommendations on shops in our around Atlanta GA? Or the southeast in general? I ran a search and not picking up anything. I've been SUPER frustrated with my 2018 TRD 4x4 having sold a 2005 years back and need a gear upgrade before changing suspension, wheels, tires, and adding weight. I tow a bit so 5.29's are what I will ultimately need. Need a reputable shop though, can't do it myself.

 

ACC Garage or Southern Offroad Specialist