The Audiophile's BS Thread

im truly hurt

 

LoL, I have to mix it up a little!

 

haha @ your sig! I may change myn as well since it is so applicable.

Yea, stock setup is proving itself annoying.

Between my Polk speakers at home and Denons/Paradoxed Fostex headphones out of a JDS ODAC and Cavalli CTH amp i'm pretty spoiled.

If you guys ever need headphone advice... PM me I am a walking encyclopedia on the matter. Just don't buy Beats!

By the way, nice trucks fellas.

~M

 

Who in hell would by Beats? I'd never give my money to thugs, well voluntarily. What about buds, want something to wear while riding my motorcycle. I have a set of Sennheisers (not sure of model) that are half assed, would like a little more. I've read good things about Shure, but you can't listen to them before you buy. Suggestions?

 

Do you like an overall bassy sig? What genre do you listen to most?

I had the UE triple.fi for a while and really loved them super clear with loads of extended clean bass!, they don't work for everyones ears though.

I'm not much of an IEM (buds) guy but I could point you in the right direction...

This will keep you busy for a while... \/

http://www.head-fi.org/t/478568/mul...pared-rock-it-sounds-r-20-r-30-added-09-29-12

~M

 

Thanks, just what I've been looking for.

 

No problem.

~M

 

It's 11:30 here and I'm finally going to sleep. Been working on a new set of line array home audio speakers since about 7pm (when I got home from work).

-Crossovers are done
-Sub amp was modified and installed
-Port system has been sealed, installed and reinforced
-Dampening has been attached internally
-Subwoofer brace has been installed
-Cabinet feet attached

Tomorrow I'm hoping to drop the sub in to finish out the bottom section. Then I'm going to hopefully get a jump start on putting in the crossover and wiring up the 24 drivers that each cabinet will house. 16 tweeters and 8 midbass drivers per cabinet!

 

You are nuts. What's powerin em?

 

Each tower will have a 500 watt plate amp that only powers the subwoofer section. The plate amp accepts a high level signal so they can pretty much be powered with anything. They are 8ohms final impedance and the efficiency on them is about 96db. Needless to say, 15 watts will be loud enough to blow you away.

On a daily basis I'll be powering them with an ICEpower 250ASX2 amp. I've started designing media servers that have integrated amplifiers. The idea was to render the entire media setup obsolete so you only need this one box to run the whole show. It's proven to be very nice thus far. I have a 2 channel version for dedicated listening and a 7 channel version for home theater.

 

^ Wow, sounds intense. You've got the bug for sure.

~M

Edit: Nice sig, I got a chuckle out of it.

 

Im at the following:

Sub - 63hz/24 slope
Mids - 63hz/24 slope Highpass - 4hz/12 slope Lowpass
Tweets - 3.15hz/12 slope

 

Dylan, I'm curious to know why you're running the mids up that high so they overlap with the tweeters so much. I would think you'd have nearly a 3db spike in the overlap area.

 

Heres a question. Im looking to eventually (not before i get tons of planning and system mapping done) build up the truck. Plan is to build the front doors up and run them active (mid and tweet) and then put PA's in the rear doors and amp them seperately (w/ remote wire for that amp on a switch)

What are your suggestions on a good mid and a good tweet that I can feed a very decent amount of power too but fits with in our door depth specifications. I do plan on building 3/4" baffles for the mids and obviously something to do w/ the tweets. This will be crossed by some aftermarket digital processor (new RF360.3 looks nice)

I had a full build in my access cab before it was totalled, but that was leaning more to the SPL side of things, even though i could still make it sound decent. (Massive RK6's seeing about 115w rms, 2 sundown SA12's seeing 650-700 a piece, tuned sub 30hz) I know some of the ins and outs of getting a decent foot in the door on the way to SQL, but I need a little boost. I hear DIYMA has some good material that'll get me close

 

If it were me (and I'll be doing it in the next few months) I'd get the Peerless Exclusive 7" drivers from Madisound. They're a KILLER midbass driver. I recall npdang off DIYMA doing a test where he pitted them against the Scanspeak Revelators and they were neck and neck but for less than half the cost.
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/peerless-woofers-6-7/peerless-830883-exclusive-nomex-7-woofer/

Run those Peerless mids with the Vifa tweeters I posted above and that will be a killer setup when tuned right.

 

Seems kinda low for the mids as well. They'll never overpower the sub at that frequency, just seems like you'd be driving them too far with no gain in sound.

 

I still have much studying to do involving crossing the drivers and at what points (slopes etc) even though I have a general understanding of it all. I was wondering about stepping up to a larger door driver since I will be going active. I just need to make sure that w/ the baffle it'll meet the depth requirements of the double cab

 

If your mids are nice and have a decent amount of excursion it's fine to let them go that low in a well deadened door. It helps the subwoofer not seem so localized in the rear. But I agree, if you listen to bass heavy stuff more often than not and you like to jam like crazy I would set the crossover a little higher and let the sub do the work.

Dylan, can you also tell us what equipment you're running?

There's no exact science to it all in the car. It's a hostile environment for audio because it's a small space with LOTS of reflection. Tuning is an art and every car is different.

I always start out with this general outline as a starting point...
Tweeters 3khz and up
Mids crossed 80hz up to 3khz
Sub 80hz and down

That will (for the most part) be a good starting point for just about any equipment. I like to listen to the tweeters on their own first and determine how low I can go without them distorting with the volume quite loud. That gives me an idea where my mechanical limits are. Then I work from that point on up. I typically level match the mids and tweets on their own without the sub. Once I get them right only then do I throw the sub into the mix.

 

Dylan's info is in his sig.

I agree kinda, at 80hz on mine though they still put a pretty good poundin out, but its not as clean if i drop it any lower. My doors are deaded and sealed up.

 

Steven. I got an itching to try building a quarter wave box with my single ten. Have you ever built one in a mobile setup? I'm thinking I may have enough enough room if I utilized the entire back wall and a S turn in the box.