The Audiophile's BS Thread

I'm running roughly 550-600 watts, Duralast apparently has an 8 year warranty too, so it sounds like I'll never be buying a battery again. I highly doubt it will last 8 years

 

I ended up getting an 34R AGM battery. Problem solved as far as I can tell, voltage is a little more steady, although the battery is dipping down into 12V at full volume while driving. I haven't driven very far on it yet to see if my alternator is actually keeping up.

 

On a side note, my truck starts alot quicker... LoL!

 

Yeah, that's why I get my music in FLAC or WAV first and then convert it to ALAC. After hearing a few songs that I've become very familiar with over the past few years in lossless as opposed to 320 for the first time, I could never go back to using mp3 formats.

 

Here's a pretty nice T-line build with an Android tablet as a source unit.
http://imgur.com/a/wuEPN
I've been looking at Reddit a lot lately and they have a section purely for Car Audio.

 

And here's some reading for you brian.
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/1828-quarter-wave-t-line-tutorial-updated/

 

Thanks warhorse...I actually have read that thread which inspired me to try it. Unfortunately whats holding me back right now is my subs ts is around .7 and not the .4 recommended. I don't know enough about building enclosures to understand...but it sounds like it will be a sloppy tune. Idk

 

So I think I've gotten my spec on a T-Line box for my Polk 8". My line will be 8' with a port area of 2.3ft^3. I have to go to Augusta Tomorrow so I'm going to pick up some MDF to supplement my stack in the shop just so I have extra if needed.

Here are my T/S Parameters as per the manual.
QTS:0.6
QMS:5.5
QES:0.7
VAS:15.40L
FS:35Hz



What's the thinnest mdf you would use for a 10" running 600rms in a ported enclosure? I ask because if I use 1/2" I can get just over a cube and in which case can get a 12" Type-R Thin in a ported enclosure behind my rear seat but I don't think the wood could handle it.

 

I wouldn't use 1/2". It will flex at higher volumes unless you brace it well.

What does the volume go down to if you use 3/4"? What tuning are you shooting for?

 

Just over .8ft^3. I'm just going to stick with 3/4. I thought it may be cool to put a 12 back there but I'll just stick with the 10 and 3/4. I've got it at 25hz right now.

 

I'm not used to looking at WinISD and thought you were like 15db down by 30hz. The scale is totally different from Unibox. Looks decent from what I can tell. What is required via Alpine suggestions?

 

Oh and......the spoils of my toils last week. Finished them up this weekend.

 

^whoa

 

Solid walnut cabinets. 500 watt plate amp in the rear for the 10" sub. The system is about 96db efficient. Absolutely capable of ripping your face off but their clarity and finesse is unmatched by anything I've heard....and I've heard a lot.

 

I wanna hear! You do this stuff for a living right? I think i clicked a link on your build sometime. Are these your personal speaker skyscrapers or are they for a customer?

 

I built a beta set in the garage as a proof of concept. I sold them to a friend for fairly cheap to pay for this set so I could build them. It's serial number 1 of what I'll be calling the LA-50 (line array with 50 drivers in it).

Naturally, the set is for sale as is should anyone decide to cut me a check for $6k on the spot after listening to them. Subsequent pairs will be made for anyone who orders them. I'm not one to brag but seriously, nothing comes close.

 

The air volume is within Alpine's recommended specs for a 10" R Thin using 3/4 wood.

Wow. I'd love to have one of those in my house. Is that box an enclosure for you mid's as well as your sub or did you not need anything for them?

x3

Own's his own company and make's his own product IIRC. Stereo Clarity I believe is his business. This guy's the best on this site if you're looking for help on something car audio, anything audio I'm willing to bet also.

 

If i win the lottery that might be one of the first checks i write lol. It looks amazing i wish i could hear it. You're inspiring me to upgrade my audio setup

Yep i would bet on that too, i have stalked his build thread already lol. And im i member of his USSC woo! I might be one of the only members with an access cab, my sub looks like a computer speaker compared to his setup tho.

 

Thanks Will. Yes, my company is Stereo Clarity. I don't to a ton of business but I like to make things that are special and innovative.

The enclosure is ported out the front for the subwoofer portion. The upper chamber is a separate chamber that's only for the mids and it's ported out the rear.

 

Cool bean's. When I get a home I'm defiantly going to drop some coin on a high end listening/movie room. Quick question I have that box set up with a 3"x23" round port should I do the port off the side firing to the side or would it be ok to do a forward facing port with a 90 bend immediately after the port. I am building this box for SPL rather than SQ but I don't want to hear the bend making a lot of wind noise. The box is 5" at the bottom with a 78 degree angle measured with the bottom board so I have ~4 inches at the top of the 3" port from face board to back board. I can give a screen shot if you need me to clarify. Sub will be mounted in the middle of the box.