The Correct Way To Drain/Fill the 4.0 Antifreeze

While on the subject of coolant - getting trapped air out of the system comes to mind. For yrs. I would simply idle the motor once filled with new coolant and radiator cap off with a sock attached to the radiator neck. Heater on and running. Once at operating temp I would quickly depress gas pedal, wait a few secs and do this repeatedly. This causes the water pump to push coolant to the top, along with trapped air. The sock helps to keep things from getting too messy.

Then I discovered this gadget from Lisle Tools. There are countless videos on how to use it on youtube.

No more air in the cooling system and no more mess. The sock helps - but it still gets messy.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=606

 

quoted for use this weekend.

 

Got rid of my used coolant. Had to make an appointment with the trash disposal company. Appointment was for a local hazmat collection event. Had to sign statement under penalty of perjury that I was a private person and not a business. A lot of red tape! A guy in a hazmat suit took the coolant from me at the event.

 

Just finished this now. Holy shit were the block bolts ever tight! Nearly snapped a 1/4" socket wrench trying to back one off. Hardly any room to wrench either! I assure you they're righty tighty - lefty loosey though if anyone is wondering. Having a little hose to drain everything made it a breeze!



Oddly enough my truck didn't take close to the quantity stated in the owner's manual (didn't even use two full jugs of the OEM stuff). I burped the hoses and warmed the truck several times and every time I checked it didn't seem to accept anymore. I'd say like 7.5L-8L compared to the 9.7L my book says...

 

Sub'd to save for later. I was thinking of do my just the other day. Thanks OP.

 

Sub'd for future use

 

Same here, I thought I was going to blow the ratchet gears! Factory does some weird things.

 

Here is a write up on changing your own Engine Coolant, with a few pictures. This was my first time, so you veterans, please proof read for accuracy & let me know if there are any errors so I can correct the write up. There are drains on BOTH sides of the engine, not just 1 as the OP way back in 2010 said.

As always... some safety points first when working under a vehicle:

• ALWAYS make sure vehicle is either level, or if on ramps, will not roll towards you if something fails with brakes or wheel chocks
• engage E-brake
• chock at least 2 wheels to prevent rolling
• rubber gloves are nice

Regarding the question: "Do you need to do this on a lift?" - no, I did this on the driveway (so if any antifreeze spills, could easily wash them off) but using the hose method described below, you should be able to do it without spilling at all.

POISON WARNING: antifreeze contains Ethylene Glycol - only a few tablespoonfuls (30-50 mL) if ingested will kill you. Even less for pets & children. And of course as fate would have it, it is a sweet tasting substance. So if you spill any, your dog *will* lick it up. blot up any spills & then wash away any residue with copious amounts of water. Do NOT, I repeat NOT store old antifreeze in empty 2 litre pop bottles!! I work at a hospital - have seen several cases of poisonings. Grampa knew what was in the bottles- grandkids thought it was pink pop. Using my way, you can (with a funnel) pour the old antifreeze back into the OEM bottles & take to recyclers. In Canada, Candian Tire accepts it. Many Landfills have a "toxic household round-up" day.

here is the supply list:

Tools
- 10mm socket to loosen Drain plugs on each side
- funnel
- Ratchet
- Extensions (I needed 2 - at least 12 inches or more is better)
- Universal joint for socket (driver's side)
- about 5 to 6 feet of 3/8" O.D. vinyl hose. Not thick, but clear, so can see when you have opened pet-cocks enough
- duct tape I've always wanted to include that in a write up - now I have!

Misc
- Mop bucket with graduations labelled
- small plastic container to catch drips when filling/draining
- Paper towels or rags
- Rubber gloves
- Wheel chocks

Consumables:
You will need about 7.8 litres of Toyota Super Long life coolant = 2 jugs. Part # C0009-00120-wa

Here is the coolant we use:


Tape some 3/8" O.D. line to a 14 litre bucket and position under truck:


Pop off the top button on the rubber flap so you can access & see the water jacket drains (done from wheel well:


You may want to pick up some more of these little tabs, as they are kind of a one-time thingy:


Here is the water jacket drain we need to attach line to (access from wheel well) - passenger view:
(Note - if anyone is having trouble finding the drains, let me know. I can post up some more shots, of where they are on both sides.)


Using ratchet + extensions (like I said longer is better), loosen bolt bolt above drain spigot:


... see part Two

 

...continued:

Here it is close up:


Using 10 mm socket + ratchet, open drain & begin letting engine block drain:


Drain both side of the water jacket. The driver's side sucks. You WILL need a universal socket to flex enough to reach
Then drain the rad. The drain for the rad is (of course) on the bottom.... of the rad. I didn't think I needed to post a pic. The drain can be loosened by hand. And the 3/8" hose fits onto that as well!

When done, I had about 7 litres:


Here is old (on left) VS new (on right) coolant. The white on the bottom of the beaker is dried "glue" <ahem> (hey, I only have so many to mix stuff up to "Blow some Shit up Today, as FPS Russia would say); the coolant came out pretty clear:


Don't forget to drain the overflow tank:


Refill untill rad is full:


And top up overflow tank:


take it up to 2000 - 2,500 RPM; get engine warmed up, turn heater to warm & fan to any setting but off. Run till fully warmed up. turn off. "burp" hoses by squeezing them. when engine cold, and no danger of coolant flash to steam, open & inspect. re-top off & repeat until no change.

Recycle your coolant : Canadian Tire accepts old coolant

I did this (this was the factory-fill coolant) at 149,500 km

Geoff ​

 

Here's a view from the wheel well, looking above the tire - just for perspective:






The area we want is just back & behind the Right hand side of the UCA & brake lines - That's why I pulled away the flap you can see on the right for the next pic - but as posted by others if you have good extensions you may not have to pull the top of the flap away.

Here we zoom in to the drain:


look for it *forward* of your starter, and *under* the exhaust manifold.

A good LED pen-light helps here.

 

Thank you all for the great write ups. Just did mine today and also changed the thermostat. Coolant went good. Thermostat came off easy, but putting the nuts back on was a challenge. Need more tools!

 

Just changed my coolant on my 06 Tacoma PreRunner and your instructions were great. I must say that the drain cock on the left side of the engine block was a challenge for sure. I drained all the coolant, refilled with distilled water and ran the engine at 2500 rpm's for about 10 minutes with the defroster on max. Drained the radiator and engine block again (left and right side). I then changed the thermostat and the upper and lower radiator hose. Refilled with the Toyota Long Life Anti-Freeze.
I next changed the drive belt. Needless-to-say, I was bushed at the end of this process but I saved a "bunch" of money doing it myself. Again, many thanks.

 

Very nice work Dante

 

Bout to do this. Why are some replacing Thermo? I have 164k...

 

Saw in an earlier post in here that it was not a good idea to flush the system with tap water after draining the radiator fluid. Is that correct or not????
Thanks!

 

I know this is an old thread so bare with me folks. Pulling the lower rad hose is exactly what I stated back two years ago in post # 45 and so I don't believe you need to open the engine plugs to drain the block. I still have not replaced my coolant and still have the original coolant from factory at 160000 miles/10 yr's and it's running flawless, no issues at all. IMO you folks replacing the coolant at 60-70k miles are wasting your $$ and time.

@Arrowshot , I don't think it's necessary to flush with water but if u want to flush it anyhow use distilled water it's only 99 cents a gallon at walmart. Do not use tap water ever.

 

that is also illustrated that way in the TRD manual I was like WTF.

 

Tagged.

 

sub

 

Doing this right now..!
The drain behind the alternator is kind of difficult. Trying to figure out how to reach it.!




Okey, could reach the one behind alternator, not too much coolant Coke out of this, I supposed you can drain only one of engine blocks and it will be okey.